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LIBRARY 


| 


FRIENDS 


The gifteof J 
James R. and Helen E. Davies 
in memory of 
Attorney and Mrs. Joseph L. Shaw 


University of Illinois 
at Urbana-Champaign 


{ BOOKSTACKS 





CENTRAL CIRCULATION BOOKSTACKS 
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Shore Road 
Ogunquit, ME 03907 


LIBRARY 


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FRIENDS 









The gifteor 
James R. and Helen E. Davies 
in memory of 
Attorney and Mrs. Joseph L. Shaw 









University of Illinois 
at Urbana-Champaign 


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Maine Beautiful 


Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2022 with funding from 
University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign 


https://archive.org/details/mainebeautiful0Onutt 


Maine Beautiful 


BY 


WALLACE NUTTING 


A PICTORIAL RECORD COVERING ALL THE 
COUNTIES OF MAINE, WITH TEXT BETWEEN 





BONANZA BOOKS - NEW YORK 


COPYRIGHT © MCMXXIV 
By WALLACE NUTTING 





All rights reserved 


This edition published by Bonanza Books, 
a division of Crown Publishers, Inc. 
efgh 


MANUFACTURED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 


EXPLANATORY 


HE State of Maine is so beautiful, and its wealth of scenery shows 

such a variety and has such a wide appeal, that the avid American 

mind will not easily be satisfied with any amount of illustration of the 
theme. 

We should warn all that these pages contain a pictorial representation 
of beauty spots in Maine, and are in no respect a history. The series of 
books on the States Beautiful differs in this respect from any other ever 
published. It has hitherto been considered the proper, and, in fact, the 
necessary thing, to weave history into illustrated volumes which, in a book 
of such a character, must be second or third hand, and of no special weight, 
novelty, or legitimate interest. 

The text of this book, therefore, is merely to assist in pointing out the 
approaches to such beauty spots as we have observed in Maine, and to 
indicate their peculiar features. 

In respect only to the quaint architecture of the state do we deviate 
from the above scheme. The appeal of good old dwellings is such that 
they impart a flavor to any series of illustrations, interspersed, as they 
naturally are, with landscapes. The illustrations in this work are more 
than nine-tenths new, and are shown here for the first time. The author 
has made most of them personally. In a few instances he is indebted to 
the Publicity Bureau of Maine for pictures which for one reason or 
another it would have been perhaps impossible for him to obtain otherwise, 
and in such cases credit is given. 

The author spent twelve years of his childhood in Maine. As the early 
years are most formative, especially as relates to the affections, he pleads 
guilty to a deeper love for Maine than that which he feels for any 
other state. 


+ 
in 


, 


4 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


The reader, to avoid disappointment, will kindly remember that many 
scenes, beautiful to behold, are wholly unadapted to the work of the 
camerist, if we may be allowed to coin the word. The foreshortening of 
the camera shows, in a manner very disappointing, general and distant 
views. The many great lakes for which Maine is famous are impossible 
to show on any plate. If one were to seek to include all the parts of 
Moosehead Lake, he would require for satisfactory results a mountain 
rising from the margin to a height exceeding Rainier. It is partial views 
at best, that we obtain of any subject, and particularly the great features 
of landscape effects. 

Of one other matter we must warn the reader: There are large portions 
of any state that are not particularly pictorial. We have filled this book 
with all the pictures our limits will permit. There is a wealth of material 
ample for other volumes on the same theme. Should we ever attempt 
another volume, we should emphasize more particularly those parts of 
the state which are here more lightly passed over. 


WALLACE NUTTING 


Framingham, Massachusetts 


To the 


MEMORY OF MY FATHER 


ee) INN UD TIN G 


A NATIVE OF MAINE 
AND 
A LOVER OF BEAUTY 





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Maine Beautiful 


MAINE 


HE appeal of Maine to citizens of our country who wish to see 
nature in her wilder moods, seems to be stronger than the appeal 
of any other eastern state. Indeed, residents of the remote West also make 
pilgrimages to Maine, because its wealth of waters supplies a condition of 
recreation not found in their own part of America. Without being wise 
enough to indicate all the reasons that call travelers to Maine, it is clear 
to us that the state supplies nearly all those conditions that please men when 
they revert for a time, as far as they dare, to the state of nature. 

The extent of Maine being about equal to that of the rest of the New 
England states together, covers a variety of natural beauties such as all 
those states have, and affords other beauties which they lack. The splendid 
extent and grandeur of its shore set Maine apart from any other state. 
The great plains of its northern regions ally it with the praries of the West. 
Its innumerable lakes, variously estimated in number but certainly running 
into the thousands, give it unique distinction. The streams that flow to 
and from these lakes complete the water attractions of the state. The 
south shore has an antiquity, as regards its settlement, as great as any 
part of our country. The northwestern portion of the state, however, is 
as wild and tenantless over great areas as it was in the Indian time. The 
Maine mountains, while not as numerous as those of New Hampshire, are 
for that very reason more striking, as some of them rise to imposing 
heights. The vast Maine forests permit one to roam through their long 
aisles to heart’s content. The orchards and fields are as beautiful as those 


7 


8 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 





DRAKE ISLAND, LORD FARM 


found elsewhere. Taken altogether, therefore, there is no feature of 
allurement lacking. What one cannot find in one region is abundant in 
another region. The state is remarkable for its contrasts. 

The distance of Maine from the great centers is such that it is free, 
generally speaking, from the roistering tripper. The persons who have 
made their summer homes in Maine are remarkable for their independent 
point of view. Here and there at unexpected places one finds a noble site 
nobly developed, without reference to the contiguity of any fashionable 
resort. While the north of the state is the paradise of the fisherman and of 
the hunter, the high appreciation of the older parts of the state is manifest 
in the great number of retired residences, which have taken advantage of 
some natural feature like a stream, a lake, a headland, or a forest. 

Maine! The very name inspires a deeper breath and longing. While 
it is true that most travelers are satisfied with the sophisticated centers, we 
find that the discriminating seek out in every quarter throughout Maine 
those nooks formed by the encircling hills, which supply a retreat, a solace, 
and an uplift. 

It is not easy to see Maine as a whole. We know very few persons 
who have loved and sought out its various charms. The predilection of 


THE APPROACHES TO MAINE 9 





FLATS AT DRAKE ISLAND 


men’s minds holds them usually to the admiration of certain charms such 
as the seashore, to the exclusion of other attractions. To us, the joy of 
Maine lies, to a large degree, in the differing aspects of its attractions. We 
love to follow a stream through the smooth clay fields of Maine, where 
there are no fences and only an occasional decorative maple or elm. We 
love the bold shore cliffs which here and there remain untenanted. We 
love the stillness and remoteness of the forests. 


THE APPROACHES TO MAINE 


HE conventional, we might say the classic, approach to Maine, is 

by water. Steamers from Boston ply directly to various points of 

the coast, and one may sail even from New York. The ancient mariners 
made their historic landings at Pemaquid and elsewhere, establishing settle- 
ments which antedate the famous Plymouth landing. For a hundred years, 
under the Massachusetts government, there were scarcely any roads in 
Maine. In part, the ubiquitous navigable streams and lakes account for 
this condition. In part, the clay, which is such a refractory material in its 


[Text continued on page 19.| 


THE PAINTED POOL 
By Mitprep Hoses 


I know a wooded pool 

Where golden lilies lie, 

And bathe their faces in the cool 
Reflection of the sky. 


Pve seen it softly kissed 

With rose at break of day, 

When night’s thick trailing robes of mist 
Swept silently away, 


When Dawn with dainty brush 
Flecked opals on the green, 

And washed a tint of morning flush 
Over the water's sheen. 


But O the setting sun! 

A mightier hand has he, 

Whose strokes of gorgeous crimson run 
Into a flaming sea! 


He paints the red rocks gold 
And silhouettes the pines, 

And at his touch the waters hold 
The image of their lines. 


And what is more like prayer, 
Or what more worshipful, 
Than heaven's city lying there 
Upon the painted pool? 


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GATHERING SAP 


THE APPROACHES TO MAINE 19 


pure state, is responsible for the lateness of road building. In part, and 
probably most of all, the sparseness of the settlements has made it im- 
possible to afford good roads in the upper portions of the state. 

Approaching by sea, therefore, Portland is the first and most important 
landing point. Portland, beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole 
earth, surrounded by the islands of Casco Bay, like gems in her crown, is 
a fitting city to form the front door of Maine. 

The Kennebec River, from Bath to Augusta, is the second main avenue 
of approach. This stream, throughout its course, and particularly at 
Merrymeeting Bay, the appropriately named confluence with the Andro- 
-scoggin, is always beautiful, with green and often high banks, and little 
cities nestling among their trees. 

The Boothbay, Wiscasset, Damariscotta, Rockland, and Camden region, 
considered as a unit, is marked by an involved contour forming a regiment 
of points and bays, which meet the ocean like the spears and chariots of 
an ancient army. Here, also, the coast becomes very bold, and is dominated 
by mountains which, by their immediate touch with the sea, are most 
effective, making much of their elevation. 

Penobscot Bay, with Belfast, Castine, Bucksport, and Bangor, opens a 
lordly approach of magnificent dimensions to the rich heart of Maine. 

Then there is the dignified and startling beauty of Mount Desert and 
its environs, and, finally, passing minor attractions, Passamaquoddy Bay, 
with its tremendous tides, and its opening to Eastport, Calais, and the 
bordering towns of its fine expanse. 

Altogether, no similar extent of shore, here or abroad, can for a moment 
compare with this Maine coast. In the number of miles of shore line, 
formed by its involutions, in the heights and beaches, the mountains and 
streams, the wooded decorations, the safeness of its harbors, and the conse- 
quent allurement always accompanying such a coast, the approaches of 
Maine can never be forgotten by one who loves that mysterious and ever 
beautiful wonder, the sea. If Maine had no roads at all, it could still 
afford the summer guest a retreat, delectable and sufficiently accessible for 


20 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 






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GREAT CHEBEAGUE, LITTLE JOHN IN DISTANCE 


any number of comers. Indeed, there is perhaps as much loss as gain in 
the improvement of the roads along the shore. Formerly one passed from 
inlet to inlet, from one peninsula to another, on that free element which 
has never bowed to a monopoly. There was a freedom, and at the same 
time a seclusion, in the water approaches to the island and peninsula towns 
of Maine. An independence and individuality marked the coast dwellers, 
who developed their admirable characteristics along interesting lines. 
They were as familiar, in the old clipper days, with London and Calcutta 
as with New York. They had the broad yet simple outlook of the 
sailor. Comparison with old world ports, where they must lighter their 
cargoes ashore, intensified their love for their own incomparable coast, 
where ships may often safely touch the banks, and where protection from 
storms blowing from any quarter is available. In their old age, these sea- 
men, often made rich, for that day, by their voyagings, settled in stately 
old houses which they erected for themselves in scores of little harbor 
towns. They had the wonderful Maine granite under their feet, and the 
towering Maine pines, the symbol of their state, over their heads, and their 
rich lands behind them. Maine is the natural seat of a great marine 
empire, where one never knows which to admire more, the beauty, or the 


THE APPROACHES TO MAINE 21 









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safety and roominess of the harbors. From the shore, for ages to come, 
may go out the finest building material, for its stability and gray beauty, 
that any country can afford; granite. The forests, when properly con- 
served, as they will be, may supply continuously timber for which the 
world calls. The country is capable of providing staple food supplies in 
abundance, and the apples of Maine are delicious beyond any grown in a 
warmer land. 

The brief outline of physical Maine may, and certainly should, interest 
the visitor. While a shallow idler may be careless of his surroundings, 
beyond the question of the society and fashion which it affords, a thoughtful 
citizen adds greatly to his pleasure in a visit to Maine by the consideration 
that the state has dignity and richness and greatness, aside from its interest 
as a national playground. 

The sea is not only the natural approach to Maine, for persons of 
moderate incomes, but it is also the most economical approach for persons 
of narrow means, who, by enduring the simple but cleanly accommoda- 
tions of the steamers, may be landed in Maine for an insignificant sum. 
Thus they may enjoy, by careful frugality, a summer rest that does not 
cramp the remainder of the year. 


yp. MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


He who sails his own yacht, however, may visit Maine at whatever ex- 
pensive figure he chooses to set. All the way from the simple one-man 
sail-boat to the pretentious steam yacht, the coasts of Maine are followed, 
at least in summer, by crafts of all sorts. The superior attractions of this 
coast must in time make it the headquarters of those who wisely seek 
release from the crowded harbors farther south. There is the additional 
advantage that the Maine coast furnishes men capable of building and 
sailing every sort of pleasure craft, however elaborate. The old salt has 
become a yacht sailing-master. 

The land approach to Maine most convenient and most used is the Ports- 
mouth-Kittery bridge. This memorial structure happily succeeds the 
former obnoxious and noisy toll-bridge. Nevertheless, this great structure, 
built as it is with steel, cannot be permanent, and any one with an historic 
or poetic sense must at once feel the inappropriateness of such materials for 
a memorial. The structure should, of course, have been done in granite 
or concrete, except for its draw span. The bridge is one more striking 
evidence of the inartistic temperament of our race. Of course, fifty years 
from now, when the present structure has crystallized and must be scrapped, 
it will be replaced by a better form. The road from Kittery through York, 
Portland, Brunswick, Bath, and Rockland to Bangor and Bar Harbor, is, 
in some places, of the finest quality, and in certain sections is still in course 
of improvement. We deprecate the criticism of visitors who forget that 
a modern highway is far more expensive than a railroad, and that railroads 
are too expensive to build nowadays. The visitor to Maine may consider 
that every rod of high-class highway is a gift to him. However much he 
expends on his journey, he will never repay the state for the advantages he 
enjoys. The critic often forgets that great cities build nearly all the fine 
roads. New York and Boston pay heavily for the concrete stretches that 
run over forsaken areas. Maine lacks great cities. It should be remem- 
bered that the total valuation of farm lands abutting on cement roads will 
not begin to pay the costs of these roads. These things being so, we must 
be reasonably content for many years with gravel roads, and those not too 


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THE APPROACHES TO MAINE 27 


wide. Whatever criticism we indulge should be directed against the parish 
policy of leaving execrable stretches between fine reaches of good road. 
The broad view should favor the completion of a good road as far as it 
goes. It will not be in this generation, nor possibly in the next, that we 
can look for roads good at all seasons in the Maine counties where no cities 
exist. Nor may we ever hope for more than a few trunk arteries of 
permanent highways. 

The road diverging from the route we have mentioned at Brunswick, 
and running through Augusta to Bangor, is designed for another trunk 
line, which is being bettered from year to year. Main arteries also are 
mostly completed toward the Rangeley lakes, toward Moosehead Lake, 
and through the Aroostook and to the provinces. There are also good 
roads from Portland to the White Mountains. 

All roads in Maine are good in the sense of being dry from the middle 
of June to the middle of July, in the average year. Sometimes the season 
is extended at both ends for a couple of weeks. If August is rainy, as it 
often proves to be, the clay roads become a trial to the spirit. 

It is highly interesting to see what results from the passing of a cement 
road by an old farm house, which has been for generations connected with 
its market town by a slimy slough track. The interest of a traveler over the 
roads of Maine is, however, more properly centered on the subordinate 
roads which lead to the hidden beauties of the state. There is more charm 
in one winding ribbon track than in all the vast extent of state expenditure 
for highways. For the reasons to which we have alluded, there is no 
immediate danger of losing the charms that abound on the back roads of 
Maine. The attractions connected with cultural features are found almost 
wholly in the southwest corner of Maine, for there alone is seen the 
quaint architecture which finishes a landscape. Farther north and east we 
must seek only for natural beauty, and we shall not seek in vain. 

The visitor should be warned against disappointment and hasty judg- 
ments. He may light upon a Maine county which, while fertile, is singu- 
larly bare of picturesqueness. Such regions abound in every state. This 


28 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


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SIR WILLIAM PEPPERELL HOUSE, BITTER 


is so true that a person marked by good judgment in most matters, once 
made the statement that there was little beauty in Maine. It is not until 
we seek the picturesque that we find Maine to be superior to most states in 
this quality. It is necessary to turn off, following the various peninsulas 
of the shore, or, in the inland, to seek the hill roads. What more charm- 
ing short ride than that in North Edgecomb, which leads to the old block 
house? The narrow roads about Wiscasset, Damariscotta, and Camden 
are often productive of revelations of superb outlines. Skirting the lake 
regions, in the lower counties like Oxford, fair scenes are open, capable of 
satisfying demanding tastes. One must follow the margins of the bays 
and rivers to find what Maine is like. The main road being the shortest 
line between large centers, is likely to be of slight interest. 

One finds little help by making inquiries. A beautiful road is, in the 
thought of your informant, a smooth one. One cannot depend upon the 
judgment of the casual citizen. There is, indeed, one sort of beauty which 


THE APPROACHES TO MAINE 29 


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THE LONGFELLOW HOUSE, PORTLAND 


he loves and mentions. He tells you ever of high view-points, and these 
are worth while. Many such outlooks include great stretches of lake and 
forest. Beyond that class of views your informant is without information 
or imagination. He cannot see, until they are pointed out, the intimate 
and charming compositions which exist in the nooks and curves of valleys 
and brooks. The delights of the fence corners, of the dells, of the stone 
walls, are an unopened book. Yet, when he is shown these things in 
picture, he has the capacity of admiration. As a consequence one must 
seek for himself the beauties of Maine. This work merely points out such 
as have appealed to the writer. Doubtless a dozen more volumes, each 
containing many delightful details could be compiled. As an instance of 


30 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


the numerous fine compositions that abound in narrow range, we venture 
to state that in the circuit of two miles, from one small Maine village, we 
have recorded no less than two score of pictures, each almost as good as 
any we have ever seen. It would not be fair to say that the same could be 
done about every Maine village. There are numerous bare and uninterest- 
ing hamlets. But, given one long summer season, a discerning seeker might 
readily find two villages every week as entrancing in their environment, 
and as fruitful in composition, as that village to which we have referred. 

The approaches to the northern counties are by excellent gravel roads. 
But as soon as one passes into the forests, it is astonishing what spaces 
there are without a dwelling. It is said that across one county by the 
central, though not the principal, route, there is one house in eighteen 
miles. This does not at all indicate that the region is not attractive for 
dwellings, so far as nature is concerned. It merely indicates that in this 
generation a family is no longer a community, as it used to be, when there 
were enough individuals in one family to constitute a school. We do not 
refer, in these remarks, to Aroostook county, where the natural wealth is 
so great, and the sturdier fashions are so much more generally retained, 
that the inhabitants have spread themselves more over the land. We re- 
member, however, one road in a county not far from Portland where we 
were told at a dwelling that it was the last one for three miles. The 
approaches to Moosehead from various directions are also, in their 
northern reaches, delightfully quiet solitudes. There is an unique joy in 
the seclusion of these roads. As Wilfred and I tramped seventeen miles 
for an especially desirable view of Katahdin, he suddenly broke forth, 
after a long silence; “This is what I like.”? We had not seen a dwelling 
or a human being for many miles. Probably there are myriads of persons 
who never experienced real solitude, and to whom it would be a delightful 
novelty. Of course, many persons are distressed by silence. But most of — 
our work, as humans, is so unsightly, so out of harmony with nature, and 
so ephemeral, that it is good to be where everything remains as it was from 
the beginning. 


MAPS OF MAINE 31 


It requires, however, a drive over these long woodland stretches to 
enlighten one who asks why there are not more fine roads in Maine. It 
is a constant wonder, as we stretch away mile after mile, through the unin- 
habited forest, how the people of Maine have the enterprise and generosity 
to give us these delightful thoroughfares. 


MAPS OF MAINE 


HERE are no good maps of any part of our country. This is of 
course owing to the rapid development of its cultural features. The 
best maps are those issued by the government, through the Coast and 
Geodetic Survey. These maps used to be available by the hundred for a 
nominal price, and they may still be had by paying a fair rate. When they 
were issued, they were creditably accurate. That, however, being in most 
cases at a time when there were no thoroughly good highways, there is no 
manner of knowing from these maps what the first-class roads now are. 
Nevertheless, such maps are of the highest value to one who studies seri- 
ously in detail any part of any state. Unfortunately they do not yet cover 
some of the more important sections. The contour lines of these maps are 
very helpful to the tourist. One sees at a glance where roads reach those 
sudden dips which are always pictorial; for instance, wherever a body of 
water lies against a quickly rising hill, there is beauty. 

The best general map of Maine is one given for the asking and issued 
as a matter of advertising. One meets the difficulty, however, that auto- 
mobile maps seldom consider natural attractions, but devote their attention 
mostly to hotels. No adequate attention has yet been paid to indicating 
good roads. One frequently finds an admirable highway where nothing 
but a single faint line is shown on the map, which line means an im- 
practicable road. Again, various through routes prove to be theoretical, 
existing as plans only. The ignoring of important features is amusingly 
shown on one automobile map, which does not even locate Mt. Katahdin, 


2 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


though it is the outstanding feature of interest in Maine for natural beauty 
and grandeur. The plea may be entered that there is no motor route to 
its base. 

There is room for far better guide books than we possess, but it is a 
question whether the public would support them, as the best one so far 
issued, a work of monumental zeal, has not met with an adequate response. 

To sum up the helps to finding the best scenery in Maine: First, pro- 
cure the national maps; second, procure the motor maps; third, check and 
reinforce the motor maps by the national maps; fourth, inquire locally for 
recent improvements in roads and learn what is at the moment practicable. 
It often happens that the final main route is at the time impassable. Fifth, 
in the region where there are guides, as in the back country, do not 
attempt to go alone. Sixth, you will find for yourself, more often than 
otherwise, the beautiful compositions. Leave the roads marked good and 
keep the ability to walk, by exploring paths. Maine has not been very 
thoroughly canvassed by art lovers. Artists are inclined to congregate in 
a few old localities. By far the greater part of the views in Maine are yet 
to be delineated. Many of them have not even been discovered. We 
have in this state, near the great centers of population, unappreciated 
glories, rivalling and often excelling those sought for over the sea or 


beyond the Mississippi. 


THE COAST OF MAINE 


HE ramifications of the sea coast of Maine, its extent, and its 

variety, ranging from gently graded beaches to the bold features of 
Mt. Desert, make it unique in America. Aside from moderate rocky ele- 
vations on the North Shore of Massachusetts, and the isolated out-crop- 
pings at Watch Hill, Rhode Island, the Atlantic coast from Maine to 
Mexico is a practically unbroken low shore. The Geodetic Survey has 
called attention to this striking circumstance. As a consequence, Americans 


THE COAST OF MAINE a4 


are beginning to feel that the coast of Maine contains every feature that 
the heart of man could desire. We are born of a sea-loving, sea-viewing, 
sea-faring race. Despite the present trend of America away from the 
ocean, there are still enough of us who love the sea, and all its moods, to 
hold in increasing appreciation the ecstatic charms unrolling themselves 
from Kittery to Eastport. 

There is another and still more striking aspect of the Maine coast: it 
abounds in more harbors, perhaps, than the rest of America together 
possesses. Some of these harbors, like Casco Bay, are to some extent 
developed. Others, like the regions about Wiscasset, are still very little 
used. Were there a sufficient number of great arteries leading back from 
these harbors, they might easily reach a use a hundred-fold greater than 
now. They lie awaiting the future. They are a constant challenge to the 
man of imagination. The number of islands and headlands in the bays 
and straits is legion. They are rock bordered, and some of the very 
islands themselves are famous quarries. Very recently we have been told 
by careful students of the subject that granite is the building material par 
excellence. All the edifices that man will ever raise could be supplied 
with granite of the finest quality from the coasts of Maine. 

If we seek farther how these beautiful harbors are to be availed of, we 
find unlimited lime, sands, and clay, for all the manifold uses to which 
these basal materials are adapted. 

We cannot doubt that the tremendous surge of the tides, which increases 
as we go eastward on the Maine coast, will some time be harnessed by the 
wit of man. Hitherto their white manes have escaped untamed. At a 
time when power is the great focus of civilization, and we are beginning 
to see the limitations of black and white coal, it is certain that the atten- 
tion of engineers must more and more be turned toward the limitless power 
in the tides. Problems more abstruse than the utilization of the tide have 
been solved. We cannot believe that the genius of America is incapable 
of taming their power. Once that is done, Maine will become, in con- 


[Text continued on page 39.| 


LOOKING SEAWARD 
By Mitprep Hosss 


Beyond the bluffs and spray-flung beach 
The sea was lost in a silver fog. 

At the end of day I sat on an old pine log 
With seaward gaze, 

And through the haze 

The music of a quiet, fog-bound sea, 

Like a great mother’s crooning, came to me — 
The soft antiphony of rhythmic notes, 
Deep-throated, from the distant boats, 

Low answering high, high answering low; 
The lulling, sweet monotony of bells 
Swinging slow — 

And from the lighthouse glimmered steady flashes, 
An eye of warning blinking its red lashes. 


As I sat dreaming on the log 

And saw the boats returning, 

I thought of all the ships we send afar 

Named Faith and Hope and Love; 

Of how they watch the beacon light, 

Those ships of white, 

And sail past threatening shoals without a scar. 
All treasure-laden they return to us, 

With gifts miraculous, 

From some far, unseen shore upon life's sea. 
But we must never doubt 

After we send our white ships out! 

They may not bring the prize for which we yearn, 
But always they return 

Laden with treasure! 


34 


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SWEEPING CURVES-——WOOLWICH-DRESDEN 


THE COAST OF MAINE 39 


junction with Nova Scotia, a fountain of wealth for the whole nation. 
The strategic importance of the state, constructively considered, cannot be 
overrated. When we remember that the development of power has 
already. exceeded many fold what could be accomplished by all human 
hands, we may readily deduce the truth of the thesis that civilization 
depends upon a multiplied application of power. Then, standing on the 
heights of this picturesque shore, we shall have on the coast of Maine a 
combination of the picturesque and the practical such as may stimulate the 
highest faculties of man. 

The Maine coast is not merely grand, as are the cliffs of Grand Menan, 
and as the long beaches like Old Orchard. In its hidden waterways, pro- 
tected by islands, it possesses numberless quiet stretches of utmost charm. 
On this coast pour out the fine fresh waters of Maine, the Penobscot, 
the Kennebec, and the Androscoggin. Those who tire of marine waters 
only may sail through the estuaries of these streams into a world of splen- 
did beauty, where the green of spring and the flush of autumn spread them- 
selves to the very margin of the streams. There is thus, on the Maine 
coast and near it, a variety of impressions obtainable, sufficient to entertain 
the most exacting. It is a far cry from the summer mirror of these little 
bays, bathed in shimmering sunshine, to the titantic roar and rush of 
winter waters when they rouse themselves and bombard with terrific de- 
tonations the granite bulwarks of the coast. Thus the seasons, the sun, 
the wind, the contour of the coast line, and its varying elevations, all 
assemble themselves to supply us with a natural drama, answering to every 
mood in human experience, and appealing to the gentle, the dreamy, the 
descriptive, and the tragic. Those who have delineated human passions 
have failed to explain the strange influence of the natural world on the 
mind. One thing, however, is impressively certain; that there is great 
relief for the mind in the moods of the sea. The restless, the forlorn, 
the tempest-tossed, and even the cynically bitter find help at the ocean’s 
brink. The deep without calls to the deep within. The impression of 
plenty, of power, and of eternity is conveyed by the proximity of the sea. 


40 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


Our natural intellectual poverty is challenged by the unbounded mass of 


the ocean. Our futility is rebuked by the sense that here is an element 
mighty enough to meet all challenges. Our longing for continuance is 


fed by the ageless ebb and flow of the ocean’s heart. It would seem that 
power flows into us from the sea. We grow less petty in the presence of 
this gigantic phenomenon. There is a convincing quality in the great green 
breakers such that we no longer doubt that what must be done can be done. 

But there is a mystic quality in the sea. It holds in its heart so many 
secrets and hints so constantly at shadowy and wondrous shapes, that its 
appeal to us is not only physical but spiritual. There is no faculty or 
department of human nature that is not influenced by the sea. We leap 
from the ocean to the stars with the greatest ease, and we are stimulated by 
the mystery and the bulk of the sea to attempt the grasp of mightier 
things beyond it. Thus the sea has always been a symbol of those vaster 
and occult powers which lie beyond it, and of which it is the noblest 
visible expression. The sea seems to connect us with greater worlds. 
Maine is especially happy in this tremendous asset of its rocky shores. No 
child is too young, no hoary grandfather too old to be interested and 
stimulated by the Maine coast. ‘There all ships could find refuge and 
freights. There all souls can find food enough. There he who peers into 
the unseen will find a depth sufficiently challenging. There one who 
wanders from the monotony of the interior plains or the low coasts of the 
south, and reaches a headland of Maine, feels that he has reached some- 
thing sufficiently important to engross him, and to fill his dreams. 

We love to touch infinity. When we feel the tides touch our feet, we 
fancy ourselves linked with the infinite. It matters not that we cannot 
understand deeply the voices of the sea, and the voices beyond at which 
they hint. As a child listens with a shell at its ear, so the most profound 
minds listen at the border of infinity. We are grateful for any small echo 
that reaches us. We feel refreshed by the slightest revelation. While 
some are content to dream on the shore of the ocean, others launch boldly 
forth, and either trust or dare its mystery and its terror. They love to feel 


THE COAST OF MAINE 4I 


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themselves at one with the universe. Whether we always formulate our 
thought or no, we are never fully convinced that the powers which have 
brought us forth can be dangerous to our being. At least, if we live 
through battles with the elements, we grow by means of the experience, 
and in the soul of Victor Hugo we can hear the surge and the wail of 
the tempest. We love to adapt and to adopt into our own being those 
features of the infinite which we can apprehend. Nor is it necessary that 
we should understand in order to benefit by the sea. Asa child unwittingly 
grows through the processes of digestion, so we gain new viewpoints and a 
better hope and reserve powers by laying our hand on the foaming, tossing 
mane of the ocean. By what we learn of the ocean, we suspect that we 
may learn far more. We cannot believe that it has told us any great part 
of its secrets. Its patient assault of its rock barriers shows no discourage- 


42 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


ment. Its eternal attack of all the evil things that flow into it, rendering 
them harmless, may indicate to us that all poisons have an antidote. It 
is always bringing to us some story of the past. It is always calling us to 
new journeys and investigations. It is the solace of the poor and the 
rebuke of the rich. It has something to say to all conditions of men. 
We are grateful to the sea because it speaks to us in a voice different 
from that of an ordinary appeal. We are made conscious by the sea that 
we are yet inarticulate. As what we have said is an echo of what we have 
seen, it is apparent that we have seen little. If we ask for the classical 
utterances on various aspects of nature, art, and human experience, we 
shall find but few of these utterances satisfying, and in some instances there 
is no utterance whatever that at all meets our sense of what ought to be 
said. Sailors ought to be eloquent. Or is it true that the multitudinous 
voices of the sea silence the hearer, teaching him modesty and restraint? 

We speak of placing prisoners in solitary confinement. So far as that 
is concerned, we are all in the dark as to most knowledge, available or 
unavailable. Men who are never in jail, and indeed are of very lofty 
character, are yet seeking, and for the most part in vain, to hear and to 
see the voices and the visions that so slowly unfold for us. The ocean 
helps to let us out of prison, for we are all bound, hand and foot. Prophets 
seek to open our eyes and ears and to let us out of our prison house, and 
thereby they justify their calling as prophets. They are ever showing 
us something that we have not seen, but might have seen. They are all 
receivers, who gather from the ether such voices as are ever resonant there, 
but not available to us in our dullness. Thus the ocean may be to us 
almost anything that we wish to make it. It is a bathing place or a fishing 
place. That is something to those who see in it nothing more. To others 
it is a highway. To others it is a cosmic call. It is the only feature of 
the earth visibly large enough and mysterious enough to claim all our 
time and thought. , 

In this feature, Maine is rich beyond expression. What history, what 
poetry, what romance, lies latent in the shore of Maine for the coming 


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MAINE FROM KITTERY TO PORTLAND 51 


generations! To gain our greatest delight, we should think of the Maine 
shore as the starting point of new epics. What it has in store we cannot 
tell, but we know that so far its influences are mostly to come into use. 
As its tides may supply the motive power for our mechanics, so its appeals 
to our minds and hearts must supply the motive for a fuller literature, 
based on aricher life. But of this we may be sure: the Maine coast is at 


_ present, and for all time is likely to be, the most attractive natural feature 


of America, except the western mountains; and to those who prefer shore 
to mountain, the Maine coast is supreme. 


MAINE FROM KITTERY TO PORTLAND 


[7 ITTERY shares with Portsmouth in forming a natural port unit. 
Its ancient navy yard and its old dwellings ally it with our pre- 
revolutionary history. The drive to Gerrish Island is worth while. 

York is a large town, with ancient traditions, with its jail museum, and 
with beach, harbor, nooks, and cliffs, and a river, so that in miniature it 
contains practically every feature of Maine coast scenery. Its accessibility 
has made all these features largely available, and it may be thought of 
as the township in Maine epitomizing, more than any other, the state’s 
shore attractions. For we must not forget that Mt. Desert contains several 
townships. The communities of Ogunquit and Kennebunkport enjoy the 
same varieties of coast line, in and out, and up and down, as characterize 
York. All these communities are supplied with every sort of marine 
beauty. As the point where the sea and shore meet is said to be the 
initial point of life on our planet, it would almost seem as if, by a kind 
of atavism, we hark back to the beaches and the bluffs of the ocean as to 
the places where we are most at home, and therefore most content. 

Wells has its long littoral of quiet outlines. Beaches of the Maine coast 
are sometimes like those in Florida, being in the form of elongated dunes 
behind which lagoons lie, most picturesque in their contours. This is true 


oe MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


of Ogunquit, Wells, and Crescent Surf, a portion of Kennebunkport. A 
series of islands off Kennebunkport affords a retreat. 

The naming of islands is a reflection of many human moods, some of 
them humorous. The Maine islands have the usual names repeated after 
those of other regions. Nearly all the domestic animals and various wild 
beasts are represented. Somewhere in Maine or on the New England 
coast we have Sow and Pigs, Ram, Cow, Goat, and doubtless we might go 
on with Upper Goose, Goslings, etc. There ought to be a commission 
appointed on geographical names. Of course its suggestions never would 
be followed, but we would enjoy possessing one more commission—the 
substitute for a conscience. At least, however, we might dignify our land- 
scapes by re-naming localities suffering from duplication of names. 

At Biddeford and Saco we find the river of which Whittier wrote, the 
Saco. The stream has finished its leaps and lazy meanderings and is here 
brought down to hard work grinding in the prison house of its dams. At 
times, however, to assert itself, the water comes down with overwhelming 
flood, and dashes over the natural crags in beautiful confusion. If we could 
confine our view to the splendid cascades made here by the Saco we should 
be well content. Biddeford Pool is a pleasing detour. 

Old Orchard Beach cannot be spoiled even by the unsightliness of its 
“culture” features. Its tremendous reach in the form of a flattened 
crescent, its great breadth of sands, its limpid, dimpled surface of a 
summer’s day, and its roaring regiments of breakers in the stormy season, 
give it always an interest that does not wane. It is the great beach of 
Maine. Scarboro also enjoys a long beach somewhat more removed from 
the greater crowds of Old Orchard. And so we come to Cape Elizabeth 
forming the southern side of Casco Bay. The endless line of rock coasts, 
with here and there a fine bluff, provide a refuge for those who would be | 
silent and alone. There are combinations of cove and cliff of distin- 
guished beauty. The close proximity of Cape Elizabeth to Portland allows 
its development in a more complete manner than could otherwise be the 
case. It is enjoyed for many months of the year. Its famous Portland 


MAINE FROM KITTERY TO PORTLAND 53 


Head light marks the channel between the Cape and Cushing Island, and 
is one of the best known points on the Atlantic coast. 

Casco Bay, buttressed as it is against the open sea, by islands so over- 
lapping as to make Portland Harbor remarkable for its safety and availa- 
bility in all weathers, is a body of water worth all the time one can give 
to it. 

Portland seen from the roofs of its lofty buildings, displays a harbor 
almost environing the city. Its harbor has been sung by poets and praised 
by promoters. Nothing too good of it can be said. Our interest, however, 
is in its remarkable beauty. Portland is the logical point for seeing the 
best of the east. It is a moderate run, passing by lake, hill, and stream to 
the White Mountains. It is convenient to Boston, Bar Harbor, and the 
interior of the state. Its people have adequately met the needs of travelers. 
The city itself is dignified and beautiful so far as any city at this date in 
America can be. Its public institutions are of such a character as to engross 
one during the rainy days. The river park and the near-by suburbs, as 
ancient Falmouth, and the mosquito fleet for runs in every direction to 
the large and small islands of its bay, supply the call of an active Ameri- 
can. Whatever his quest for summer life, he should find it in or near 
Portland. 

The slopes of Falmouth to the sea are of striking beauty. The sea is 
here, to be sure, but we are still in Casco Bay so that one enjoys the quiet of 
waters incident to the islands seen some miles out. 

Every one of the islands ought to be the seat of a summer home. All 
this will come in time. The sense of owning a little kingdom, with natural 
barriers all about it, answers an innate human trait. We can understand 
the spirit of a man who would rather be king in an island, though he have 
no subject other than himself and the cat, than to be one in a crowd. The 
possession of a modern motor-boat entirely changes the situation as regards 
the ownership of an island. Formerly one was dependent on the moods 
of the winds or a stuffy steamer. The motor-boat is a close second to its 
land cousin, the automobile. Can anything be more fascinating than the 


54 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


opportunity of skimming about in a boat among the islands of Maine 
during the day, and returning to one’s own little kingdom at night? 

The sea needs no repairs and is never out of commission. During the 
storms of winter the family may occupy itself in the library, the laboratory, 
the shop, or the barn. It has been found that periods of vigorous activity, 
interspersed with periods of repose, carry people onward to success. It is 
necessary to digest the material acquired by travel and observation. How 
much we should be enriched if some of the brilliant globe trotters of past 
centuries had made an occasional: minute of their goings and comings! 
One or two vague or incredible tales are about all that we have to tell us 
how very early settlers lived in America. It was only after many years 
that Bradford wrote his simple narrative about Plymouth. Even so, that 
was lost to the light for centuries. History touching life has been written 
only at long intervals and at distant spaces. 

We wander along the coast of Maine where the earliest houses stood and 
wonder what their dwellers thought and did. The things which history 
records are the least interesting. If we could follow a seventeenth-century 
settler through a season’s activities from day to day, it would be far more 
interesting than any records they have actually left us. If we could know 
what the early fathers ate, and how they cooked it, according to their own 
story, and could be told in some homely record of their conversations and 
avocations, the past and the present could be linked much more closely. 
It is the tendency in life and history to overemphasize salient features, 
according to the famous saying, that the nation is blessed which has no 
history. We are not, however, of that opinion. That rare combination of 
activity which makes history, and the occasional repose which regards it in 
perspective can scarcely be found among the early American settlers. 

Regarding the dwellings which are erected by summer residents along 
the coast of Maine, perhaps the less said, the better. In most instances 
they will fall in the winds. The proper material for a Maine coast house 
is of course the stones that abound everywhere. We do not mean the 


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MAINE FROM KITTERY TO PORTLAND 59 


round boulders such as are in stone walls, which stones were never seen in 
dwellings in the olden day, and never should be seen in our own. The 
craze for cobble-stone chimneys, gates, and dwellings is based on lack of 
thought, lack of taste, and lack of knowledge. The ledges in Maine are 
in many places broken so as to provide angular stones fit for building. 
We hope that one hundred years from now the Maine coast may show 
many thousands of structures resting upon the primal rock, and rising from 
fragments of the same material. Thus their solidity will satisfy the heart 
of man, their age will give continuity to the families that dwell in them, 
and their artistic lines will melt into their surroundings. 

Yarmouth has an old-world sound. Its rivers, coves, headlands, have 
afforded for many years pleasurable summers for tourists. Its Drinkwater 
Point is most aptly named, especially being in Maine. 

One is often astonished, as at Freeport, to know that he is only a mile 
from salt water when on the main road. If we would see the Maine 
coast at its best, we must ever follow the rambling, dipping, curving, coast 
road, which invariably charms us. 

At Brunswick the shadows of great elms protect Maine’s old classic seat, 
Bowdoin College, with its fine campus. Here also the rushing Androscog- 
gin makes its last turmoil before sinking into the splendid waters of 
Merrymeeting Bay. Brunswick is the sort of town one might seek as a 
residence, especially if he combined scholarly tastes with a love of the 
country. For here he would be close to Harpswell, Orr’s Island, and the 
endless miles of coast line that border these historic and picturesque loca- 
tions. Following up the Androscoggin he finds that in its lower reaches it 
has not altogether lost the charm which it had in its youth at Rumford 
and Dixfield. The distance to Bath is short, and one is also in line to 
proceed northerly from Brunswick to the fair banks of the Kennebec, and 
the region beyond. 

If we here follow the shore to Bath, we reach a truly maritime city, 
with fine past traditions brought down to the present day, of efficient con- 
struction in all sorts of sea craft, either for the merchant service or the 


60 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


navy. Here were born many of the clipper ships, and here, even in the 
last great war, the nation found help for its sea craft construction. 

A project for the erection of a great bridge at Bath is now being mooted. 
We do not object to the ferry, if we have leisure, but who has leisure? 
At Bath we pass to a region in Maine that has lacked and, as some say, 
has desired to lack the commercial activity found to the west of the 
Kennebec. 

The highly important estuaries of the Sheepscot and Damariscotta rivers 
appealed to the earliest explorers of the New England coast so much that 
they chose these locations in preference to all others. It was at Pemaquid 
that a pre-Pilgrim settlement of some importance was formed, and at 
Edgecomb, an ancient fort, whose block-house remains, was erected. There 
have been dreams of making Wiscasset the Maine outlet for Canada. The 
deep waters of these estuaries and their high banks seem to the enterpris- 
ing American to call for a very large development. Meantime, the traveler 
who loves quiet finds an irresistible attraction in these Maine villages. 
Wiscasset enjoys a well-deserved reputation for the beauty and quaintness 
and dignity of its green, and the old dwellings about it. Perhaps there is 
no other Maine village able to compete with this in the range of its 
attractions. For the most part it is thought of as a lovely village, but as 
a center for boating and driving it has a broader and perhaps more im- 
portant appeal. We found right about Wiscasset and up the Sheepscot 
and in Woolwich, Dresden, and Pittston, a very great number of compo- 
sitions containing the elements so dear to the lover of rural life. Wool- 
wich, indeed, fairly belongs to Bath, but as one goes north the western 
bank of the Kennebec is replete with orchards, quaint early dwellings, 
minor streams with their little falls, and maple-crested hills for many a 
mile, even to Winslow, opposite Waterville. Damariscotta has on an — 
estate bordering its inland coves, a wonderful series of birch banks. Its 
lake, lying a little to the north, and favored by quickly-sloping banks, 
reminds us of Camden, with its bay and lake, except that here the eleva- 
tions are not so great. | 


MAINE FROM KITTERY TO PORTLAND 61 





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THE BLOCK-HOUSE, NORTH EDGECOMB 


The tide of traffic on this portion of the Maine coast is found farther 
south on the peninsulas of Boothbay, and those on either hand from it. 
As we saw over a wealth of cherry blossoms, well on in June, the harbor 
of Boothbay, we thought the setting was near to perfection. At East 
Boothbay, also, there is no end of pleasure in exploring the little inlets, 
some of which have been availed of by tide dams. The entire region with 
its orchards, farm houses, and shores, allowing one to pass back and forth 
from the sea to the inland attractions, is most satisfactory. Wandering on 
through Waldoboro, and Warren to Rockland, we find again, at the last 
named, a commercial center. It is the first point touched by steamers 
approaching the wonderful bay of the Penobscot, with its surrounding 
delights, as at Camden, Castine, and the islands. 

We have hitherto adverted to Camden, and have hinted at its excellence. 
In its harbor, its mountains, and its lakes, it easily maintains a distinction 
such that one forgets comparisons. They are not necessary. The charm 
of Camden, looking seaward or landward from its mountains, and the joy 
of its back-country drives, like those to Union and Washington and Lin- 


62 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


colnville, are enough to help us to forget the many things that fill life 
without blessing it. 

Returning to Pemaquid, we find a region of mystery, and therefore of 
interest. Excavations have uncovered pavements, and pavements, at the 
beginning of the seventeenth century, mark a very enlightened or very 
medieval spirit. It would appear that the founders designed to lay out 
a town of pretensions. It was only by the barest chance that Pemaquid 
failed to be the Boston of New England. The state has restored the 
ancient stone block-house, and has thus provided a nucleus for the earliest 
romance of the east, if we except the mystery of the stone tower at New- 
port. Investigations at Pemaquid are not concluded. It is possible that 
more light may yet be thrown upon this primitive settlement. 

The location of the North Edgecomb block-house is fine. The old ram- 
parts are in places almost intact. It is a sad commentary on our careless- 
ness of these ancient monuments, that people should be allowed to roam 
at will about them, cutting their insignificant names in the venerable tim- 
bers, and chipping away relics. So fine a monument as this deserves careful 
protection. 

While we are on the subject, we may as well call attention to the 
remaining block-house at Winslow. It is square, and therefore much 
simpler than that at Edgecomb, but is more respectably protected. These 
are the principal relics, in an architectural sense, in Maine, of the ancient 
time, and a pilgrimage to them, including the natural attractions that lie 
between, may fill one or two joyous days. 

The fine harbor formed in Penobscot Bay by the islands off its mouth 
is a fitting approach to the river, whose dimensions might almost be called 
lordly. Running up this stream past delightful old Castine and Bucksport, 
we reach the fine city of Bangor. In the solidity and attractiveness of its 
public buildings, and in its natural advantages as a center of the lumbering 
and agricultural interests of Maine, Bangor is important. It is also the 
base of extensive water trips northward. The roads center here from the 
Provinces, from Aroostook, and from the mountain and lake region, of 
which Millinocket is the second gateway. 


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64 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


One may approach Bar Harbor from Bucksport, crossing the river there 
by ferry, or may make the longer journey through Bangor. Ellsworth is 
the doorway of Mt. Desert. It has a fine attraction of its own in Union 
River, in both directions from the town. 

Mt. Desert 1s so extensive that it includes many sorts of scenery, and 
in spite of the strong trend of fashion toward it, there yet remain many 
opportunities for dwellings that need lack nothing in the way of satisfactory 
outlooks. The center of most towns is the least interesting portion, and 
this statement is true of Mt. Desert. We have not learned, and probably 
we may never learn, to combine beauty with business. Not that the com- 
bination is impracticable, or even difficult, but it requires a harmonious 
effort, and long planning in advance. Otherwise the almost total oblitera- 
tion of a town is necessary before it can be reéstablished on harmonious 
lines. This, of course, is not to be thought of. It is only in the develop- 
ment of new centers that men of vision may provide for desirable archi- 
tectural centers. 

Mt. Desert is yet, for the most part, free from that fenced-in condition 
and ever-present sense of hostility which marks Newport. The people of 
Mt. Desert have manifested fine feeling for the beauty of their island 
as a national focus of joy. This is a happy circumstance, which we hope 
will continue as the island develops. A score of years hence the number 
and the quality of the residences on the island will be such that the im- 
portance of the right spirit toward the general public will be increasingly 
felt. 

Passing from Ellsworth and Machias to Eastport, one sees little as 
yet of efforts to use the coast as an esthetic asset. The region has been 
lumbered. In process of time, of course, these interesting bays and prom- 
ontories must come to their own, as the refuge and the solace of weary 
America. Extensive as the Maine coast is, the greatness of our country 
will find it not one mile too long. In this latter portion of the Maine 
coast journey, one passes occasionally estuaries of striking natural beauty. 
The rush of the tides, coming up to meet the little cascades that are formed 
at low water, is an unending source of pleasure. At the Sullivan ferry, 


PASSAMAQUODDY BAY 65 


which, by the way, may be avoided, the present outrageous toll ought not 
to be tolerated. It is finally to be done away by the completion of a 
great bridge. Millbridge, Cherryfield, and Jonesboro are the starting 
points of attractive inland roads, and from Machias one may journey north, 
omitting Eastport, and threading the lake region to Calais. Eastport, 
however, should be taken in by everyone, and the interior route may be 
followed as a side trip. There is room for romance as one sees the stone 
stairs at Eastport docks, reaching down, down, down, deep beneath the 
green water. The tremendous tide here offers room for a story by an 
American Hugo. 


PASSAMAQUODDY BAY 


OR more than forty years, since the author while a student enjoyed a 
wonderful summer on Campobello Island, to the present hour, 
Passamaquoddy Bay has been a glittering, beckoning memory. It 1s a 
fitting approach to our country on the east. Though marred now by the 
brutal criminality of rum running, its dimpling waters will at last, of course, 
be redeemed to peaceful beauty. For many miles the Maine shore, in- 
dented by hidden bays and the fascinating pagoda shapes of evergreens on 
the little peninsulas, extends to the St. Croix. At present it is only those 
who have the discernment to go far and to form their homes by humoring 
rather than thwarting nature, who enjoy the shores of the bay. We have 
not seen any computation of the possible power to be developed by the 
great tidal dam, which exists in dream only, from the region of Eastport 
to Nova Scotia. Doubtless, however, the power developed could be gigan- 
tic, dwarfing any similar impounding of fresh water. Thought of as a 
future achievement, this project will naturally place Eastport, and the 
towns to the north, at the center rather than at the edge of things. Happily 
such a development will interfere in no way with the charm of these 
waters. The New Brunswick towns, as seen from the Maine shore, have 
an almost English outline. St. Croix Island lies beautifully embosomed 
near the shore. 


66 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


MAINE’S MOUNTAIN REGIONS 


T is perhaps true that the mountain region of Maine is more extensive 

than that of New Hampshire. This may seem a startling statement. 
The size of Maine, however, permits a mountain here and there more or 
less disconnected with any main range. If all the mountain sections were 
collected, as is true in New Hampshire with the exception of Monadnock, 
we should have a very impressive mass of mountains. The chief among 
them is Katahdin. At present the approach to this noble eminence is rather 
difficult. The best route in is perhaps from Maillinocket. It necessitates 
leaving the motor car and taking a truck, then to a canoe, and finally 
another truck, and a tramp. Another approach is by way of Greenville 
and the Ripogenus Dam. A walk of some six miles is ended by a canoe 
trip followed by a shorter walk. Then it is the canoe again. However, 
if one wishes a fine view of the mountain he may gain that from the 
Sourdnahunk. This is the picture which we show. 

We arrived on a day of beautiful summer clouds. As one stands on 
the dam the waters rush out through the gates in broad torrents of creamy 
foam. Above stands the mountain with its table top, and above that float 
in the quiet azure the splendid billows of cloud. The contrast between © 
the turbulence below and the serenity above gives a still greater attraction 
to the river and the mountain. This stream is the west branch of the 
Penobscot. The mass of Katahdin and its separation from other mountains 
give it a fine dignity. It is perhaps on this account the most impressive 
peak east of the Rockies. Its absolute height is almost exactly a mile. We 
have not yet seen government maps of this part of Maine, but we hope 
that they may be completed soon. This mountain is one of a series as we 
pass westward, skirting several peaks until one reaches the Spencer Moun- 
tains east of Moosehead. Their elevation exceeds three thousand feet. 
They are closely allied with Kineo, which, owing to its strategic location, 
is probably the best-known mountain in Maine except Green Mountain 
on Mount Desert. The sail up Moosehead Lake from Greenville, 


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A QUIET SAIL 


THE LAKES AND STREAMS OF MAINE 71 


reached by motor or by rail, is far and away the most impressive experience 
one can gain from scenery in the interior of New England. The lake is 
bordered with fine mountains for a greater part of its extent. 

We enjoyed a phenomenon wholly new to us. As we passed by the 
Spencer range we had a drenching thunder shower. It fell between us 
and the range. On either side of the shower we observed the sun shining. 
It was 2 demonstration in physical geography such as we had seen in 
sketches but never before in reality. The mountains were partly swathed 
in mist, affording vague and dreamy outlines, and appeared to be the 
parents of the storm. The remarkable feature was the absence of storm 
fore and aft »f our steamer. As we approached Mount Kineo we found it 
well below great masses of white cloud, but with the splendid blue pre- 
dominating. It is an object of grandeur and delight. The sheerer descent 
is seen from the opposite side. There are about Moosehead other peaks 
of much beauty, as Squaw Mountain near Greenville. The great extent 
of lake affording an almost straightaway sail of forty miles, with its innu- 
merable bays and headlands, and its almost perpetual glory of cloud and 
color, are all a wonderful experience to those who see them for the 
first time. 


THE LAKES AND STREAMS OF MAINE 


HE Indian names of lakes, streams, and mountains in Maine are not 

as difficult as they seem, being pronounced as they are written. At our 

first knowledge of these names, they furnish not a little humorous com- 

ment. At length, however, their pleasing syllables become poetic, and 

stand for the sweet, wild districts where they nestle or flow, as waters, or 
dominate the landscape in noble elevations. 

Though the number of the Maine lakes is legion, their total area is only 
sufficient to render them charming. A lake of great extent loses the 
_ beauty of winding waters, broken by many peninsulas. There seems to 
be a very decisive line of opinion drawn between those who regard these 


72 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


lakes as sources of power, and those who regard them as lures for the 
traveler. If the state insists, as it easily may, that any lands flooded shall 
previously be carefully cleared of timber, there is no reason why the 
beauty of Maine should not be conserved, together with its waters. In 
no case should the flooding of a timbered country be permitted. It can 

work no hardship to insist on the clearing of timber. The product ought 
~ to come near balancing the cost. Every one of us ought to stand strongly 
against the unnecessary ugliness of dead timbers, forlorn monuments of 
carelessness or greed, amid the slack waters formed by dams. 

The mountains about the Rangeley Lakes are not so lofty, yet afford, 
in conjunction with the lakes, scenes of noble splendor. One compares the 
Rangeleys with the English lake country. That country also we have 
pictured and admired. We feel that the Rangeley region is not a 
little superior in its beauty as well as in its extent. The Rangeley forests 
are more interesting. These regions must be considered as a unit with 
New Hampshire scenery. To the west of Umbagog one is often dis- 
appointed by the absence of pine trees near the margins of our Maine 
lakes. Whenever we do find good forest specimens they are likely to be 
in a tangle, so that we may view them only in a general way. Here and 
there we find birches have been left growing on the very shores, for which 
they have a strong affection. The mountains of Maine and New Hamp- 
shire seen from Upper Kezar Lake in Lovell are to be commended as 
affording a lake setting of grandeur. 

About Lake Meddybemps in Washington County, the hills, while of 
much beauty, do not rise to the dignity of mountains. The fine mountain 
shores about Camden and Mount Desert are unique in this northeastern 
American coast in that mountain and sea come together. The inlets be- 
tween the mountains and Mount Desert some one called the only fiords — 
in America. The statement seems to us very much forced. Certainly on 
the Pacific Coast in Puget Sound there are fiords greatly surpassing in 
grandeur any of those in Norway, but it is not necessary to look so far 
away. ‘he waterways about Wiscasset appeal to us as true fiords. There 


THE LAKES AND STREAMS OF MAINE 73 


are other inlets on the Maine coast where swiftly-descending hills meet 
deep water. However that may be, we should not overlook one region 
at the expense of another. As one sails up the Penobscot and sees below 
one, opposite Bucksport, Mount Waldo and Treak Hull, the latter rises 
directly from the water’s edge. He finds at the entrance of Marsh Bay 
a slope sufficiently high and rapid to be defined as a ford. In fact the 
sail through the Penobscot in daytime or on the borders of morning or 
evening unrolls grandeurs never to be forgotten by those who love the 
hills. They are much higher and bolder than those seen on the Kennebec, 
which gains its attractions through the intimate and tender green slopes. 
The great part of the district in Maine, from somewhat west of Augusta, 
well on for one hundred and fifty miles due east, is a country just escaping 
the dignity of mountains. It is spattered over with fine hills very often 
wooded. If one would patiently and slowly thread the farm roads through 
this region he would be in a state of continual joy as one graceful contour 
after another unfolded itself. 

To return to the features of the shore and mountains, let us say that 
the outlook from Maiden’s Cliff on the north side of Megunticook is of 
surpassing beauty, such that we should be at a loss to match it in our 
country. While the terrifying and majestic elevations of the Cascade 
Range are lacking, there is here on Maiden’s Cliff an intimate outlining 
of lakes below, and, looking southeasterly to the sea, all together affording 
the highest satisfaction. We were happy in our day’s visit to this spot. 
The view is well known and everywhere used in pictorial advertising litera- 
ture. It is apparent, however, that visitors to this point are not as numerous 
as they should be. The trail is easy for a mountain trail, and is a climb 
of only twenty-five minutes even allowing for intervals of rest. The ap- 
proach is from a farm house on the lake side, which must be sought out 
by inquiry since no signs appear. Ascending the main peak and looking 
seaward, a wholly different view is unfolded. At our feet lies Camden 
Harbor, and well easterly are the elevations of Mount Desert and north- 

[Text continued on page 84.| 


SEEN FROM MEGUNTICOOK 
By Mivprep Hosss 


Seaward 
A bowl of blue with dots of flashing yachts and steamers — 
From tiny smoke stacks belching gray 
One waves a gay farewell with floating streamers. 


The blue breaks into white about her deck; 
On, on she sails, to the bowls distant rim, fainter and fainter; 
Out to the far horizon moves a dim, slow-fading speck! 


The Coast 


Cool curves of beaches smile among the boulders 
While, mile upon mile, out of the sea 
The mountains rear their heads and green-clad shoulders. 


Inland 


Behind the mountains sleeping waters hide, 
And shielding them from winds at boisterous play, 
Mesgunticook and his great brothers spread their mantles wide. 


From high on Maiden’s Cliff the islands seem 
Like tufted cushions on a glassy floor, 
Where gods may rest their wingéd feet and softly dream. 


The miniatures of fringing trees reflect 
Along the mirrored shores 
With unreal, fairyland effect. 


And in the blue-green distance of the pines 
Glimmer the shining points of roofs 
Among the sweep of mountains sketched in billowing lines. 


O glorious Camden trails that lead to such a view, 
They miss a sight sublime who would not follow you! 


74 











FROM MAIDEN?’S CLIFF—CAMDEN 





AVBELPAS tT COVE 










































































































































































RENNEBEC BIRCH ES-—"HALLOWETLTL 





A GRACIOUS HEDGEROW 












































































































































































































































A MAINE FARM ENTRANCE=]-WOOLWICH ROAD 





COTTAGE ORCHARD—BATH-WISCASSET ROAD 





ACHONEYMOON |RETREAT——DRESDEWN 





A WELL SWEEP BACKGROUND-—LISBON 


LYOdWAOOUA—NIVLANO AWOSSOTA V 





I—HIHV9 NUVA GIO AHL | OUNAAAUYA—SMOA OOVS 





KENNEBEC BIRCHES 
Written by Miuprep Hosss for picture on page 77 


On past the dusk of Popham groves 

The river lures a sea-worn craft, 

Through curving channels banked with fern 
To birch-cooled shelters of her coves, 


W here clusters of the birches fleck 
Their bits of dappling green and gold 
On wimpled waters, when the wind 
Runs lightly over Kennebec. 


Like ladies waving gilded fans 

They stand in slender, dazzling groups, 
Swishing thew trailing autumn robes, 
And whispering their winter's plans. 


One bends a graceful, snow-white neck 
To catch the sunlight in her hair 

And watch its yellow glint reflect 

In shallows of the Kennebec. 


On past the woods, the sunny farms, 
And busy, ship-lined shores of towns, 
These ladies lure the sea-worn craft 
Into their nooks of golden charms. 


With whisperings they nod and beck 
Along the river’s quivering edge, 
As low they lean to kiss and woo 
The waters of the Kennebec. 

83 


84 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


easterly flows along the Penobscot River. There is a healthful, and what 
we hope not a too sharp, rivalry between Camden and Mount Desert. 
Each has its peculiar beauties, and they are sufficiently different to set off 
one another. The loftiness of the Camden Range is as impressive, viewed 
from the sea or from the lakes, as any of our eastern mountain scenery. 

At Mount Desert, in the setting aside of a portion of the island known 
as Lafayette National Park, and the beginning of a road to the greatest 
elevation on the island, we have a very satisfactory undertaking and accom- 
plishment. Happily it has not been too late in America to secure under 
national control a great many of our country’s landscape glories. The 
beauty of Somes Sound and of the fine cliffs and headlands of the various 
parts of Mount Desert has been rather fully disclosed in our travel litera- 
ture. The island scene on Mount Desert that most pleased us was a fore- 
ground of a field of daisies beyond which lay a lake and Mount Green. On 
the Southwest Harbor shore we also found a daisy field sloping sharply 
down to the beach, with evergreens beyond. On the east shore of the 
island is the impressive cliff which is named Cathedral Rock, from the fact 
that an arch opens behind its foremost buttress. In the sea there is an 
endless charm as one wanders along the beach at low tide. We were 
obliged to climb down a rugged way since we happily came upon these 
cliffs at high tide. Asa rule the tide evades us. They tell us that there 
are two high tides in a day, but our experience seems to contradict astronomy. 
These fine cliffs, with the water breaking upon them, are of course more 
impressive than when one walks upon the beach. The caves formed by 
the erosion of softer rocks are called The Ovens, and are curious massive 
cavities in the cliffs.. Mount Desert has the peculiar distinction of being 
at once the summer home of leaders in the financial and intellectual world. 
It would perhaps be a betrayal of Mount Desert to state that its summer 
mildness is hurt by occasional fogs. But who in the reeking and torrid 
July in the great city would not welcome a cool fog? The contours of 
Mount Desert are in general not so bold as those about Camden, but a 
mountain island ever holds its own fascination. This portion of Maine 


THE LAKES AND STREAMS OF MAINE 85 


is without doubt destined to become completely occupied by seasonal 
dwellers. If they prove to have the wisdom not to tame the scenery it 
will be a most happy outcome. For ourselves we can never see the appro- 
priateness of city lawns among the cliffs, rapids, and mountain streams. 

The vista of Mount Desert, as it spreads itself before a traveler on the 
road from Ellsworth eastward, and especially in Sullivan, suggests some- 
what a scene in the Greek Isles only that our elevations are beautifully 
wooded. The mountain districts of Maine are almost always rich in lakes, 
and this affords more than half their charm. There is almost no end to 
the cottage sites to be found made up of a hill slope, below which lies a 
lake. We observe usually that cottages are huddled on the very bank of 
a lake, and not seldom where the highway dust is wafted against them. 
The joy of a lake is as much in looking down upon it as in sailing over it. 
Since nature has provided so many admirable hill curvatures in Maine it is 
high time that their excellence should be recognized. 

It often happens that an entrancing feature of lake scenery consists of 
the large and small islands that dot the larger lakes of Maine, from the 
mere breaking of the surf by a bold rock to the extent of many acres finely 
wooded. These islands, or at least several score of them in the Maine 
lakes, are still calling to the seeker. for independence, quiet, and beauty. 
As seen from above, these islands appear, especially in a quiet day, inex- 
pressibly beautiful. We almost fear that the universal use of motor-cars 
may prevent the development of homes upon these islands. Human 
nature, however, is not easily modified, and whatever means of locomotion 
there is in store for us, we may safely believe that an island home will 
always be attractive. Perhaps in the general development, the islands will 
come into their own again, especially since the invention of the amphibious 
airplane. 

[Text continued on page 91.| 


THE OLD BACK DOOR 
By Mitprep Hoses 


Something there is in the lift of a latch 

That opens Memory’s door, 

Something about its friendly touch 

W hich takes us back to the old home place 
That we knew as children and loved so much, 
Back to the house whose sheltering trees 
Sang us to sleep with the birds and bees. 
Near the kitchen garden patch 

By the old back door we played; 

How the limb of the maple swayed 

With the weight of the swing! 

And in the spring 

There was always a blue-bird’s nest in the apple tree 
And a chipmunk scampering on the wall. 


Do you recall 
The fragrance of snowy linen pinned 
Secure on the lines and flapping in the wind; 
And how to the old back door we brought our pets, 
The chickens and ducks and a woolly lamb? 
And is there anyone who forgets 
The loved house cat and her lively kittens, 
Or the rain-barrel where the ducklings swam, 
Or the dog’s quick barking behind the screens 
When the bearded tramps ate their supper of beans 
On the cool, stone step, worn low 
By the feet of the children of long ago? 
Something there is in the lift of a latch 
That opens the door of Memory 
Where the scenes of childhood reign! 
How many a wanderer longs to see 
His old back door down in Maine! 
86 


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CRYSTAL COV E—G RAY 





APO N TRY PARSONAGE-—-MANCHESTER 





AN ABANDONED ORCHARD—-MANCHESTER 





OLD MAINE MILLS 91 


OLD MAINE MILLS 


AINE is the paradise of miniature mills. There is a little valley, 
beloved of our boyhood, where a tannery and a saw mill followed 
one another on a stream with an interval only sufficient for the little reser- 
voirs between. One can scarcely take a half-hour’s run on Maine roads 
without encountering one or more such mills or sites where they once stood. 
They were seldom operated the year through, but only at the time of high 
water. This time coinciding with that in which farm labor was least de- 
_ manding, the mill was a convenient outlet for energy. The winter was 
spent in the forest preparing the logs, the early spring in sawing. These 
little water powers have lapsed into disuse, owing to the modern specializ- 
ing in the matter of labor, so that one man does one thing all the time, and 
loses the pleasure and the development connected with variation of labors. 
What will become of the little old dams is a question that nature is answer- 
ing for herself. Occasionally, in a rampant freshet, she gives them a 
shoulder thrust, and the freed waters of the stream babble over their little 
cascade as they have done for ages. An occasional structure of great 
_ strength still impounds a placid pond, on the margins of which the rushes 
grow. 
_ At the old Coombs’ Mills in Augusta, on a gently shelving shore, bap- 
_ tisms used to occur. This mill has survived, and become more important 
_ than of yore. We do not connect the sanctifying of the waters with its 
| prosperity. We are far from believing that the righteous are always well 
looked after on this planet. 

Another mill has been for long a source of tan-bark banking, used to 
protect the farm houses in winter. Here and there an old mill-dam has 
been utilized for esthetic purposes, to decorate the grounds of a summer 
place. One and another of the better of these ancient reservoirs has been 
purchased by power companies, to be drawn upon in seasons of drought. 
Some of the old dams have sunken to puddles, owing to the cutting away 
of timber. Largely, such mill ponds are anybody’s property, in the sense 


92 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


that they are unused and await the coming of someone to set them to work 
again or to beautify their banks. | 

In the olden time the mill was often the only lively spot in a country 
town, when the farmers were bringing in their logs or drawing away their 
sawed product. The delicious odors of the boards as they came from the 
saw, or the fragrance of the yellow meal that sifted down into the re- 
ceiving tray, linger yet in our nostrils. 

It was a period of small enterprises and slow wheels. There was no 
Minneapolis hum at the old mill-dam. At North Berwick, Ebenezer Hobb 
had an old water mill which was famed for the fine quality of the meal it 
turned out, but in another respect it was like the mills of the gods; it 
ground slowly, so slowly that the meal drizzled down in a minute stream. 
A farmer from afar came one day with four bushels of corn to grind. 
Ebenezer got busy. He descended to the lower regions, and jiggled 
around with the water gate. He came up and jiggled with other controls. 
At last the old wheel began to growl, like a rheumatic brute. After a 
short eternity the farmer inquired, 

“ How you getting along, Ebenezer? ” 

“Oh, we’re doing pretty well. What’s your hurry? ” 

Another interminable interval, then the farmer breaks out, 

“Ebenezer, I’ve got an ox at home that will eat that meal faster than 
you can grind it.” 

At that Ebenezer flared up, and retorted, 

“Td like to know how long he could eat it? ” 

“‘ He could eat that meal,” said the farmer, “till he starved to death! ” 


CANOEING IN MAINE 


T is natural to suppose that Maine, a state of waters, would develop 
the finest form of the canoe. This supposition is borne out by the fact. 
The Indian canoe of birch bark, a rather fragile affair, has been sup- 


CANOEING IN MAINE 93 









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planted by a canoe with close set, thin, cedar ribs, and cedar strakes, all 
covered by canvas. Such a canoe, twenty feet long, weighs about ninety 
pounds, and is ample for three people with their dunnage. More can 
be accommodated if necessary, but three is the right number for comfort. 
This canoe is not too heavy at the carries for two men, the third toting 
dunnage in a pack. 

The shape of this canoe is closely modeled on the lines of the Indian 
canoe of bark, with a round bottom rather flattened, and with the ends 
coming together in a quick, sharp, graceful curve. The shape is the em- 
bodiment of an Indian dream. We may think that the horns of the moon 
and the curves of the graceful birch tree, and the crescent beaches of the 
Maine lakes gave the suggestion. The result at least is perfection. The 
canoe combines more than any other human creation the practical and the 
ideal, reminding us of “the perfect woman, nobly planned.” For light- 


94 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


ness, for grace, for mobility, for its perfect adaptation to its purpose, no 
device of man has ever equaled the canoe. It is the home of the woods- 
man for the greater part of the year. Even at night he draws it on shore 
and, upturning it, has a roof above him. It is his home and companion. 
More than any other inanimate thing, it is lovable and beloved. We stroke 
its curves as we pet a fine horse. It is not without good reason that the 
canoe has appealed, in picture, song, and story, to the minds of those who 
discovered it full-grown and beautiful, in the hands of the adept Indian, 
who evolved it. To be at once a thing of perfect beauty and perfect 
adaptability to use, is true of few human creations. Its very lightness and 
elasticity preserve it from harm, where a clumsier craft would be smashed. 
Its very resilience and fragility make it durable. Like the human character 
it has the power to rebound after a blow, and to bob up serenely, ready for 
the next bump. Henry Ward Beecher once made a very telling simile, 
regarding the resilience of the ferry slips. An analogy based on the canoe 
would have supplied him with a far more apt and telling illustration. 

It is highly significant that the old guide gains an affection for his canoe, 
and thinks it, despite all the battering it has received, better than a new 
one. Here and there a strake has been broken. Again and again the canvas 
has been punctured. Never mind. After a few deft repairs, and one more 
coat of new skin, otherwise orange shellac, the voyageur launches forth 
again, happier than before, because his own feeling and skill have entered 
into the craft that bears him. It is a monument to his ability as a boatman, 
and every scar is a kind of notch-stick history of his experiences in the 
rapids, from season to season. Like a child, none too perfect, it is the best 
for him because it is his. In winter he renews it, in the other three seasons 
he paddles it. It is at once his living and his life. It combines poetry and 
practicality, so that, even if he reads with difficulty, and has not heard of 
Keats, his life is nevertheless an idyll. 

Maine is especially happy, indeed preéminent, in the range that may be 
covered in a canoe, with an occasional short carry just sufficient to em- 
phasize the rest and comfort of launching again. A seat in the bottom of 


CANOEING IN MAINE 95 


a canoe is a post of observation, more joyous and more profitable than the 
throne of a king. The world passes in review before one. The fish leap 
about one. The birds twitter as one passes. The marks on the stones show 
the range between high and low water. The mosses on the trees and the 
direction of the branches indicate the prevailing winds. The keen and 
experienced guide reads a long history and indulges in sure prophecy, as 
the canoe glides along. It is a story not read in history, but none the less 
worth while and delightful. 

The canoe has more to do with the development of history in America 
than has the battleship. The canoe might well be taken as the symbol and 
seal of Parkman’s wonderful histories. For the canoe was the pioneer of 
European civilization in the west, even more than the prairie schooner or 
the Conestoga wagon. 

When we see a canoe, we live again our childhood with Cooper. This 
slight, airy affair, begun by the Indian, and finished by the even subtler 
skill of the white man, is on its way again to the forefront of American 
life. There are doubtless more canoes now than in the days of the Indians, 
and their number is constantly and deservedly increasing. Contrary to the 
supposition of the unknowing, the canoe is a safe craft. One may, indeed, 
overset it, but the finest forms and implements used by man require 
delicacy of control, and when so controlled they are safer than more 
clumsy implements. It takes little practice to gain as great assurance of 
safety in a canoe as upon the land. One is far more likely to catch his foot 
in a root than to catch his keel on a rock. The use of a canoe encourages 
a certain litheness, combined with a daintiness of touch, which reacts upon 
the mind of the person who acquires these faculties, and gives a sense of 
power. One feels almost the assurance of a bird in the sky. A construc- 
tion which is at once a vehicle and a home, which may be used to sleep in 
or under, to float in quiet water or to dash through cascades, is an achieve- 
ment into which doubtless many centuries have entered. 

The waters of Maine are competed for by the lumbermen, so that until 
We get into the real backwoods, we do not have the streams to ourselves 


96 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


with the canoes. But even so, it is highly entertaining and sometimes 
amusing to observe the adroitness of the paddler in overcoming obstacles. 
Mr. Thornton Burgess, the notable naturalist and writer for children, was 
telling the author of his experience with an Indian paddler as they ap- 
proached aboom. Mr. Burgess asked what his guide would do about that. 
The reply was, “When I holler, you paddle like »? When they 
neared the boom, each put his strength to his paddle, and the canoe grace- 





fully mounted the obstacle like a hurdler. The writer, in canoeing on the 
Penobscot, was carried through a mass of pulp wood, over which the 
paddler, working alone, easily shot. On one occasion, when we thought 
there was no lumber: near, we felt a rumbling. When we asked Roberts 
what it was, he said, “Oh, we are just on rollers.’ We bumped about for 
a long time among sticks, some of them quite formidable, but with not 
half the annoyance caused by the mosquitoes. Upsets in rapids do occur, 
but they are so rare that every one hears about them, and the guide 1s 
always chagrined, as it is a point of honor with ‘him to avoid such mishap. 
He fears the laugh of his fellows more than anything else. The guides 
acquire an almost uncanny skill in riding the rough water, and in know- 
ing where they are safe. Of course well-known rapids are shot by 
them so often that they feel as much at home as in a parlor — probably 
more so. 

The delights of the night camp serve to perfect the experiences of a 
canoe trip, like a luscious bit of ham between sandwich slices. All the joys 
in life being emphasized by contrast, the evening is never so delightful as 
when it closes an active day, nor is the day ever so delightful as when we 
leave the morning camp. All foods are tasty, though it should be under- 
stood that the best is not considered too good to take along. Canoeing with 
a camera has marked advantages over gunning. One is more likely to 
bring home spoils, and those spoils are more attractive than the eyes of a 
dead beast. Further, in spite of the number of cameras, it is rare that one 
is used in the woods. The catch with a camera is more likely to be original 
than any catch of fish or game. 





CANOEING IN MAINE 97 


Though many indulge in rhapsodies regarding the delights of the forest, 
most human beings love a crowd. Indeed, when among solitudes we often 
feel a bit selfish that we should have several square miles to our individual 
selves. A new train of reflections is suggested. The uninhabited parts of 
the earth are still very extensive. Its surface, if we ignore the water, 
which we decidedly are not doing at the present time, still affords some fifty 
acres toa family! Practically, however, if a man wants room, there are so 
many ready to resign it to him that he may easily acquire several square 
miles for the price of a diamond of moderate size. A certain gentleman 
has been adversely criticised because he acquired an island many miles in 
extent. Since no one else wanted it, we see no reason to object to his ambi- 
tion. Some may enjoy canoeing where there are many canoes. Give us 
the wild! Let us move over the mirrored surfaces where the call of the 
moose or the loon is the only break in the celestial silence. 

There are stretches of hundreds of miles in extent in Maine, like the 
Allagash River trip, during which one scarcely sees a human being. Yet 
the sense of loneliness never descends on a true canoeist. 

The canoe, in fact, is the only available means of seeing Maine over a 
great part of its extent. Some years ago, we contributed an article on the 
fitting up of an old street car with a canoe slung in the clerestory. By 
negotiation the car was taken in tow to interesting points, and there derailed, 
and the canoe made use of. Since that time the motor car has made much 
more elastic a similar plan. By carrying a canoe thus on a specially con- 
structed body, one may live on a motor car with day trips by canoe. We 
commend this suggestion to those who would like to do it first and report. 
It is an adventure that we propose entering upon at the first opportunity. 
When the newness of motoring passes, Americans may return to the water 
as the more pleasing and the safer recreation. The water is much softer 
to fall upon than are stone roads. 

Canoeing for man and wife, or for a tourist and his guide, offers such 
a Variety of attractions that it must increase, if, indeed, the spirit of freedom 
still stirs in the blood of Americans. Three-quarters of the state of Maine 


98 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


is an area as perfect as any in existence for this incomparably attractive 
recreation. Aroostook, Piscataquis, Somerset, and Penobscot counties in the 
north, Washington county in the east, Kennebec in the center, and Cumber- 
land and Oxford in the West, possibly in the order in which we have 
named them, offer the widest series of attractions. To us the streams and 
the small lakes are not only most beautiful, but in other respects most allur- 
ing. We would, however, not convey an impression that a long or a 
strange trip is safe without a guide. The very independence and freedom 
of spirit which induces men to make canoe journeys, also sometimes induces 
them to venture too far and to depend wholly on their own wisdom. This 
is just as dangerous as it is to buy antiques without advice, or after advice. 

On a canoe journey, one should frankly dispense with the usual para- 
phernalia of civilization, and dress precisely as a woodsman does. This 
remark is especially pertinent to footwear, including heavy, home-knit 
socks. Otherwise what might be a delightful journey may be very annoy- 
ing. Those who must keep all the finical aids of the city will not enjoy a 
canoe journey. Beyond the comfort of a shave, and a dip in the summer 
streams, one should think of nothing personal. 

A great surprise awaited the writer, who found that in the open he 
could tramp three times the distance that he could walk in town. Dwelling 
beneath the sky is the only true elixir of youth. A trip of this sort derives 
additional attraction from a knowledge, at least in a moderate degree, of 


the trees and shrubs and flowers. The little creatures of the wood, and > 


the game one occasionally comes upon, increase our pleasure. 
One confession, however, we have to make, humiliating though it be. 


Always in country journeys we take a stock of blank paper, to enroll the - 


thoughts that rush upon us. Always all the paper is brought back as 
blank as at the beginning. The rushing thoughts are drowned or blown 
away! They seem very important at the time, but while a black fly is 
crawling through one’s hair, or the glory of a summer cloud is overhead, 
how can one stop to write? Except to a few geniuses like Thoreau, whose 


memory was perhaps phenomenal, the woods are not productive of literary | 


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THE TREES OF MAINE 103 


achievement. Even artists in oil, if the truth is to be blazed abroad, fre- 
quently whisk away, when there is a knock at the door, the photographs of 
the scenes they are “ painting from nature.” 


THE TREES OF MAINE 


W* suspect that when Maine was called the Pine Tree State, the word 
pine was made to do duty in a general way for evergreens. We 
know that much furniture, said to be pine, is often spruce or cedar in parts. 
There is a loose manner of thinking of all evergreens when wrought into 
lumber, as pine. Whatever may once have been the case, we very much 
doubt whether the pine is now the predominant tree of Maine. A lady of 
some discrimination declared to the writer that she journeyed over two 
hundred miles in Maine without seeing a pine from her car window. We 
wonder whether she might not have taken at least a few naps. A surprise, 
however, awaits the traveler who supposes that he is about to drive through 
interminable pine forests. The spruce is very much in evidence, fir is 
common, hackmatack usual, and hemlock more than common. 

Perhaps a pine, at its best estate, is the most picturesque of trees, but it 
is seldom that great pines are symmetrical. The gnarled growth of a pine 
may be more picturesque, but it is a question whether the pure beauty of a 
perfect cone is not more attractive. While it is doubtless true that the 
pine was culled out near the shore, it probably was never as predominant 
as it was popularly supposed to have been. 

The most valuable wood economically in Maine is perhaps the spruce. 
It is being cut away so rapidly that without careful restrictions the state 1s 
likely to be denuded. The spruce is a tree of very great beauty both as 
to color and form. It is also an ideal wood for ship spars as well as its 
more common use for paper pulp. In its different varieties it is found 
almost everywhere in Maine. Evergreens are found more particularly on 
a light soil. It is, indeed, a very happy provision of nature that pines will 
grow in almost pure sand. We have seen splendid forests of pine on land 


104. MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


worthless for anything else. The fact may serve to bring out what modern 
science has shown us, that everything can be used. There are no barren 
soils, especially in eastern America, since we find here no deleterious 
chemicals in the soils, and every bare tract can be converted into a valuable 
plantation. The importance of pine is on this account coming much to 
the fore just now. 

A curious condition regarding tree growths is that trees growing in the 
open, with limbs on all sides, are of small value commercially, while 
esthetically they are far finer than forest trees. Indeed, a lone tree, left 
after the forest is cut away from it, is rather unsightly, since it has only a 
small tuft in the way of foliage. We are indebted to the darkness for 
the goodness of timber. In the forest the lower limbs cease to develop 
and leave no trace except small knots. Yet we have an admiration for the 
beauty of forest trees, since they complement one another, growing in the 
mass. Their foliage is so far away that we hear only a distant sough. 
We walk like pigmies among the mighty boles, and lay our hands af- 
fectionately upon them. Sometimes, even in the deep forests, the ferns 
make a fine growth. Near Moosehead Lake we came upon a good half 
acre of maidenhair ferns, the most extensive tract we have observed. 
Near the streams, also, either on the trees or on the rocks, within the reach 
of wind-blown spray, fine mosses thrive, and we have shown a detail of 
such moss, on the banks of the Penobscot. 

The fir tree is not very familiar in the lower temperate zone. Its foliage 
somewhat resembles the hemlock, except that the short needles grow out in 
every direction from the stem. The rich color and the exuberance of the 
foliage has a fine effect. This is the tree which supplies the balsam so 
highly regarded in the last generation as a pulmonary remedy. The odor 
of the balsam is still supposed to be healing. Whether, there is a direct 
benefit, or that better indirect benefit derived from wandering in the forest 
and living outdoors, we do not know. 

The gums of evergreens, especially the spruce, are best collected where, 
as not seldom occurs, a lightning stroke has left a long seam in the bark 


THE TREES OF MAINE 105 













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from top to bottom. In this wound the tree exudes its gums to save itself, 
and affords a fine harvest for the gum hunter. At first the crystal globules 
are mere pitch, and it requires some years for them to become good gum. 
The interest of a forest lies largely in the superimposed growth. The 
ancient trees that have fallen and gone back into the soil are the source 
from which the new growth arises. Where this process is often repeated, 
we obtain the fine depth of wood-mold so stimulative to plant growth. 
It affords no end of sweet imaginings to see a recently fallen tree lying 
upon another that is moss and punk, while this tree, in turn, rests upon 
still another which has wholly disintegrated. It is not often that forest 
fires have allowed this condition. It is the underlying punk wood which 
carries the fires, sometimes for a half mile, in a wholly invisible manner. 
The flame will then break out again at great distance. This is why fire 
fighting is so difficult, dealing as it does with an elusive element in an 
ancient wood. The old punk burns like a slow match, with a dull glow. 
We suppose that the cigarette smoker will continue his vicious habit, until 
the time comes, as it may in some generation, when men seek higher 
pleasures than that of nicotine. The campaign against fires is pretty vigor- 
[Text continued on page 115.| 


ON SABBATH DAY LAKE 
MEDITATIONS 


Written by Mitprep Hosss for picture on page 110 


I 
In a singing silence I dream and float, 
Riding over tree-tops in a white boat. 


The tree things and water things my young brothers are, 
All of us made from the same small star. 


Far past green shores whose colors overflow, 
And out upon the heavens, with soft clouds below! 


II 
Drifting between two sapphire skies, 
My spirit in a trance of wonder lies, 
As though already from its star-dust free, 
Seeing afar mto eternity 
And sensing the sublime reality. 


I lose the hours until the planets make 
Their nightly pilgrimage across the lake. 


III 
Far, far away among those orbs of light 
Live other marveling souls, star-bound as we. 
Up-gazing from their wooden boats at night, 
A float on quiet lakes, perhaps they see 
And Venus and a thousand other stars. 
The twinkling glow of Earth along with Mars 


I wonder if they have one day in seven 
For looking into heaven, 

And whether in the soul-land we shall meet 
Our brothers of the stars, at God’s feet. 


106 





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FERN, BLOOM AND ELM-—DRESDEN 


THE TREES OF MAINE 115 


ously waged, by warnings to extinguish all camp fires, but so long as it does 
not constitute a crime to smoke cigarettes, little headway will be made. 
There is something back of forest fires that lies in uneducated natures. 
There is an abundant number of city people who seem to recognize no 
property rights in the country. They freely break down lilacs and the 
blossoming boughs of apple trees, and make use of the land wherever their 
fine fancy prompts. They could own this earth on which they tread for a 
very small investment. They prove, however, that their interest is not 
serious, and their admiration not honest. The love of nature is shown by 
the respect we show to her. To build a fire against a dwelling is not nearly 
so dangerous as to build a fire in the forest, unless a site with wide areas 
of clean earth surrounds the blaze. A forest fire is like a bitter word, left 
to rankle. When we consider the slowness of the growth of a character 
or a tree, it is no less than a miracle that we have good men and good trees. 
The Indians were accused of setting fires for various purposes, in the old 
days. Sometimes they wished to drive out game; sometimes they wished 
to encourage the growth of grasses or shrubs for deer and moose to browse 
upon. But since they used little timber, in their crude civilization, they 
were not as blameworthy as the present day barbarian who is destroying 
the ancient forest. Nothing is more unsightly than a burned-over tract. 
Nothing is more delightful than an undisturbed woodland. We are 
slowly learning that to call a man civilized does not make him so, and that 
the savagery of the twentieth century is far more dangerous, and in many 
instances more complete, than was the case before the days of Columbus. 
If we can’t be lovers of beauty, let us at least try to be decent in ourselves. 
Fire does not belong to us by any right that we can claim as human beings. 
Nothing belongs to us. We take everything on sufferance. Even when 
we buy, we simply enter into an agreement with another man to quit his 
claim to the thing we purchase. Back of his claim is no indefeasible right. 
We may get our deeds from the Indians, but judgment on us for our use 
of the lands is decided by an older and mightier power. Twenty thousand 
acres have just been burned over in Maine, as we write. The state pays 


116 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


a great sum to its fire fighters, and in addition it suffers the loss of its 
forests and its reservoir of waters. That a characterless man should handle 
carelessly the mystery of fire is one of the anomalies of civilization. 

The hackmatack, or American larch, is one of the anomalies among trees. 
Though a conifer, it is not evergreen. The irregularity of its branches 
gives it an airy grace. We have not seen elsewhere than in Maine rows 
or clumps of hackmatack planted as windbreaks or decorative trees. Oc- 
casionally one sees a whole forest of them, usually on the lowlands. 

The hemlock, much despised in the early times, is so common that it 
is now much used as a cheap lumber, though it affords shaky boards. In 
its growth, it is often graceful. One of its important values is its bark, 
used for tanning, though the oak bark is better, and modern chemical 
methods are likely to supersede both barks, and leather itself, for that 
matter. 

The poplar is another common wood, cut for pulp or for spools. We 
were accustomed to think of it as a somewhat plebeian tree. Now, how- 
ever, when we see the hard woods, such as maple and birch, passed over 
as valueless in the back forests, we must revise our opinions. It is said 
that a quarter of a million cords of pulp wood will be floated this year, 
down one branch of the Penobscot river. It is surprising to see how well | 
trained the sticks are, keeping generally in the middle of a strong current, 
where the stream is of fairly uniform width. In the broads, however, and 
where the eddies form, it circles about several times before it is willing 
to proceed. In times of high water, tossed up on the bank, it remains, and 
in parts of the river shows a definite line of numerous sticks on the sands 
or the crags. From these positions it is cleared every year or two, in the 
autumn, by a process called “ picking the river.” Beginning at the highest 
and most remote tributary streams, every stick is started on its way by the 
deft river man, and followed down until millions of feet are gathered at 
the final point. The life of the river men, while dangerous, is not so 
much so as it appears, to one who watches them from the bank, leaping 
from log to log. 


THE TREES OF MAINE 117 





PEMAQUID FORT 


The workers at this trade acquire a love for it. In fact, it would seem 
that the mote dangerous an occupation out of doors, the more ready are 
men to go into it. This promises well for a hardy race. So long as men 
are ready to take up dangerous callings, which nevertheless give health 
and quick, iron muscles, it indicates that the spirit of manhood is not on the 
decline. The life of the camp has developed a type. The food is of the 
best, but woe to him who finds fault! By the discipline of the camp, the 
critic or the cook must go, and it is not, as a rule, the cook. The quantity 
of food consumed is enormous, since the activity of the lumberman and the 
cold weather require great interior fires. We have heard of one foreman 
who rapidly took on board nine fried eggs, as the introduction to his break- 
fast. In addition to the meats, of which there are all sorts, and all good, 
there was at least one instance when rich baked beans were also served for 
three hundred and sixty consecutive meals. This is the total number of 
meals during which the cook-house was in operation. Do not imagine there 
was a change in diet. In putting up dinners for the men who go too far 

[Text continued on page 123.] 


POLAND SHADE 
By Mitprep Hosss 


All the way is gold and purple 
Through the depths of Poland shade, 
And the road is streaked and mottled 
With a shadow-spun brocade, 


While the shifting lights of woodlands 
Intermingle, interglide, 

Weaving tapestries of splendor 

Far along on either side— 


Dusky armies standing silent 
In a blaze of sunlit fire, 
Underneath the gilded outline 
Of a forest dome and spire; 


Graceful ferns and scarlet lilies 
Flaming in a shaft of light, 
Butterflies of gorgeous colors 


Spreading wings in idle flight; 


And a wilderness of thicket, 
And a deers soft, lustrous eyes, 
And the brooks of diamond waters, 


With their glinting dragon-fles! 


O the way of gold and purple 
Over rolling hill and glade, 
And the spell of whispering woodlands 
In the depths of Poland shade! 
118 


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THE RIPPLES’? EDGE—WISCASSET 





THE SWIMMERS’ DELIGHT—DANVILLE 








TOPSHAM BANKS MEETING THE TIDE—ROCKPORT 





HNWoorodda—AATIVA AHL OLNI HONOUL AAGAISGVOU AHL 





ORNAMENTAL AND FRUIT TREES 123 


to return for them, there were, in this camp at least, always added a dozen 
cookies, besides the dessert. A cook informed me that such trifles do not 
count, and that he never knew a cooky to be returned. 


ORNAMENTAL AND FRUIT TREES 


HE maple and the birch and the elm are the usual trees along the 
walls. The elms, though not so old as those of Massachusetts, are 
scarcely less majestic. In many towns they form a wonderful canopy over 
the streets. In the smaller places, as Randolph, Dresden, Union, and a 
hundred others, their great trunks lend dignity and character. 

The maple is a favorite, largely, probably, because of its quick growth. 
It requires but a few years to cast a dense and broad shade. This very 
early maturity, however, betokens an early decay, as we have elsewhere 
pointed out. The basswood is in some neighborhoods a favorite. The 
buttonwood scarcely occurs in Maine. 

The birch tree, with its velvety pink bark, of the sort growing in, north- 
ern latitudes, flourishes in Maine very extensively, though there are regions 
where we see it seldom. When at its best, it has an individual charm 
unlike any other species. We have been happy in finding at York and 
Damariscotta, in New Vineyard and other quarters, a large number of 
delightful specimens or groups of these trees, which light up the twilight 
roadsides and form an artistic marker. The great wood piles of white 
birch are a feature of the farmhouses. At Lincolnville, the children of a 
family built them a fort in the woodpile, while the buttresses were round 
sticks with their white rims, and the guns were large and fine salmon- 
colored logs. The bright eyes of the defenders peeped shyly over their 
ramparts. We left them as dangerous persons, who would captivate our 
hearts and keep us in bondage if we remained long. 

The beech woods of Maine, always winning us by their fine trunks, 
supply another source of fire wood. The oak is not so common nor so 


124 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


majestic as we find it in Connecticut. The distinctive and frondlike foliage 
of the locust appears here and there, and, of course, the horse chestnut is 
highly honored. The nut trees of Maine are confined mostly to the beech 
and a few sporadic specimens of other varieties. Beach nutting was the 
usual excuse in the autumn for a frolic in the woods. 

The cherry trees of Hallowell, of the great blackheart variety, were 
long a well-known product. The wild cherry remains as a pest of the 
wayside, since it is a dangerous and favorite host for worms. Since the 
wood is of some value for furniture, a campaign ought to be begun against 
all wild cherries. This tree is quite distinct from the sour cherry of Penn- 
sylvania, so much cultivated for its fruit. 

The choke cherry, so appropriately named, is another product, almost 
as dangerous as poison to the small boy. It remains for some genius to find 
a use for its fruit. 

The roadsides of Maine are beautiful in the autumn with the elderberry, 
growing by the stone walls and ancient fences. Wild blackberries grace 
the spring and enrich the autumn. The upland pastures and roadsides are 
well spattered with raspberry bushes. 


MAINE APPLE BLOSSOMS 


HE love for apple blossoms, which has become so evident in the writer’s 

life, seems never satiated. This year has been wonderful for the 
fullness and general diffusion of these pearl-white, myriad petals that fill 
the air with fragrance and the eye with delight. To this we must add 
that by rough computation, carried on throughout the spring, we determine 
that at least nine out of ten orchards in Maine are neglected, and more 
than half of them grossly neglected. The apple is alive only through its 
own persistence. There is no general sorting or rating of the fruit. The 
Maine apple is equal to any that grows and superior to all that grow south 
of it, hard and luscious even into the spring, when we so much crave its 









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125 


126 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


deliciousness. It exists on tolerance, without half a chance. Here and 
there, as in Monmouth, there is serious attention paid to it. We have in 
mind an orchard that once made its owner rich, but that is dying now that 
he has died. The juniper and the evergreen, beautiful but fatal, are 
springing up to choke out the forlorn trees, many of them not past a rich 
usefulness. If one-half of the skill or enthusiasm that we see in California 
were devoted to the Maine apple, it would be grown in the greatest pro- 
fusion and would make its qualities widely known. Emphasis should be 
placed on the keeping qualities of these apples. It would be easy to prove, 
by the fruit itself, how superior it is to that brought from the west. We 
have seen in northern Maine cities, in the fruit shops, great quantities of 
mealy, tasteless western fruit, that sold purely for its skin-deep beauty, 
while the unsought, but delectable native fruit could not be had except on 
insistent demand. The crying need of Maine, at the present time, is first 
a belief in its own products, and then the fostering and exploitation of 
them. Great areas in Maine, where the soil is somewhat light or gravelly, 
are perfectly adapted for successful apple culture. Strangely enough, we 
note many apple orchards on heavy clay soils. Some farms have no other 
soil. If apples will flourish under such conditions, how much more might 
they be a source of delight and profit on those farms which at present yield 
a meager living. Along the shores of Maine, and all about the lakes, 
apples thrive. They seem to delight in slopes above water. 

We have been traveling in Elysium for months this year. The blossoms 
have told their silent story most eloquently. They came late, but lasted 
long, and many a tree seemed bent on outdoing itself. At least, it was 
bent! Never have we seen so many great branches sweeping the ground. 
Redolent, multitudinous, aromatic, the delight of the hillside, the fence 
corner, the gable of the shed, and the roadside, it has filled us with joy. 
The apple blossom is the most attractive form of prophecy. If asked if 
we believe in prophecy, we answer, yes. Shall not the intelligent men of 
Maine protect these blooms from blight, and meet half way this most 
luxuriant and beautiful overture of God to men? 












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127 


128 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


Among the hundreds of blossoms, the pictorial record of which we have 
made, we find ourselves in a delicious uncertainty which to choose. We 
have therefore laid the abundant feast before the reader. Eat, and be 
filled! We must, however, say that the view of a gable decorated by 
blossoms at Edgecomb, where we looked down upon a bay, was among 
our finest experiences. Again, where we looked up at the old block-house 
through wild-apple blossoms, we felt that charming combination of youth 
and age, of which the world never tires. In an orchard in Camden, while 
we were making adjustments for a picture, we found a wood snake twined 
about the post of the camera, and within striking distance of our eyes. 
This is the only instance in our experience of a serpent’s interest in art! 
The poor, harmless creature, he has gone the way of all snakes! 

The pyramidal form of the pear tree and its early bloom give variety 
and a longer term to the white billows of the spring. This year also, for 
the first time, we have found the wild cherry of use, peeping over its dif- 
fused abundance from the shores of Boothbay. We have also made our 
initial studies of effective horse-chestnut blooms, and have recorded the 
dogwood in its luxuriant and widespread brilliance. 


MAINE IN WINTER 


HE steadiness of the Maine winters, in spite of exceptional January 
thaws, provides good sleighing. The modern method of rolling 

the roads affords a very much better surface than we used to enjoy. In 
some parts of the state, as on the fine route from Greenville to Ripogenus 
Dam, a sprinkler is sent over the road after it is rolled. The result, so far 
as the ease of gliding is concerned, can hardly be understood by those who 
have not had a recent sleigh ride. For sleigh riding is the king of winter 
sports, because it may be so generally enjoyed, and enjoyed for so long a 
period. We have shown two or three pictures in this work of ski jumping 
and snowshoeing, furnished us by the courtesy of the Maine Publicity 


MAINE IN WINTER 129 










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Association. The modern tendency in sports seems to be for a few to enjoy 
them by actual participation, while the many stand about in the cold. In 
this respect we think the old way was better. Then everyone participated. 
It would have been a poor creature, subject to raillery, if not contempt, 
who would in those days have stood at the side of the road while the 
coasters went by. Any girl is pretty in the winter, with her pink cheeks. 
It would have been an exceptional girl for whom no place was made on 


the double-runner. 


130 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


While perhaps we strain a point if we reckon gathering maple sap as 
amongst winter sports, we nevertheless considered it in that light in our 
childhood. Two pictures, one showing the sap house, and another the 
gathering of the sap, were also furnished us by the same source. 

Undoubtedly it is a good thing to induce city people to go into the 
country in the winter, though it should require no inducement, other than 
the splendid tonic of the air, the sparkling snow on the hills, and the 
winter festoons over the fence rows and the farm buildings. Any measure 
that tends to call the attention of the public to winter as an asset, rather 
than a liability, is commendable. Maine offers the only large area in the 
east open to settlement. Many persons from northern Europe settle in 
the Dakotas and contiguous states. In Maine they might enjoy the wind- 
breaks supplied by the fine forests, and the ranges of hills. They would 
be certain of a crop, and would not require the weather bureau to tell them 
whether enough rain would fall. Maine has never called on the outside 
world for food. She has enough and to spare, and in sufficient variety, 
so that life is still agreeable on many thrifty Maine farms. We have this 
year visited such farms where optimism was a habit, and where plenty 
abounded. If those persons who sometimes go under the name of radicals, 
were to study the methods of the successful farmers in Maine, they would 
not require to press for laws asking farmers’ bonuses. Maine is one of 
two states in New England where farming is still carried on extensively 
and seriously, with the idea of obtaining one’s whole living from the land. 
Bangor is no colder than Burlington. Probably the thick blanket of winter 
snow in Maine is in part accountable for the sweetness of the corn which 
has given that product supremacy in the markets of the world. Every- 
where, we think without exception, races who have made good where cold 
winters occur, were good races, in the sense that they possessed good 
physique, persistence, thoroughness, stability, and in general, admirable 
characters. 

[Text continued on page 136.] 





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A WILDWOOD DELL-—ALNA 





POLAND SHADOW PLAY 





AND OUTLET—BIDDEFORD POOL 





TRIUMPHAL ARCHES 
By Mitprep Hosgs 


Beneath two bending boughs whose blossoms meet 
I dream of stately arches far away, 

Spanning a river or a city street. 

I hear the groan of crushing stone, 

The rhythmic peal of steel on steel, 

Until a curve of beauty stands between 

The blue sky and the earth. And I have seen 
Returning armies march 

To rolling drum and fife with flymg flags 
Through a triwmphal arch. 

Beneath another of majestic span 

Sails a departing fleet, 

While over its long course unnumbered feet 
Pass daily. Strong triumphal arches, these; 
Colossal tributes from the hand of man! 


Under the apple boughs that proudly bear 

Their burden sweet I dream my orchard dreams: 
Tiny invisible workmen of the air 

Carrying on their shoulders golden beams, 
Surrounding crooked skeletons of trees 

With every breeze 

And climbing up and down thei sunbeam ladders. 
I hear the throb of little spikes and hammers 
Building twigs and fastening on 

A bursting cloud of fragrance dipped in dawn. 
And then away beneath this glorious arch 

I see the little workmen march 

With all their tools and floating petal banners! 
Which triumph shows the greater artisan, 

The work of nature or the work of man? 


135 


136 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


ATTRACTIVE MAINE VILLAGES 


XCURSIONS ending at the point of departure from many Maine 
villages and small cities may be made very attractive. From Frye- 
burg one is under the shadow of the White Mountains. A route north 
past upper Kezar Lake is altogether beautiful. Roads easterly skirt fine 
streams, and roads southeasterly pass through evergreen woods. Fryeburg 
is of the right size, and its people are of the character, to give pleasure in 
such summer acquaintances as may be formed. The Saco, in its quiet 
stretches, is nowhere more beautiful than from the bridge nearest the 
village, though there are two other bridges somewhat farther away which 
show the stream in much beauty. A great boulder in this town has the 
reputation of being one of the largest known. At Lovell’s Pond, also, is 
the site of an old Indian battlefield. The pleasantest summer of the 
author’s youth was at Fryeburg, how many years ago we don’t care to say. 
We will say, however, that a week’s exploration over the old haunts this 
summer afforded all the joy of the past. 

Bethel is a village quite given up to summer visitors, and abounding 
in attractions. The Androscoggin shows us here many fine curves. The 
streams which flow into it are even better. One of these we regard as 
almost the most beautiful of our Maine discoveries. The location of 
Bethel, accessible from many other interesting points, must continue to 
foster its popularity. 

Farmington has for many years enjoyed distinction for its quieter sur- 
roundings near the upper Kennebec and the Sandy river. Its intervales 
mark the appropriateness of its name. Its old and notable school supplies 
an atmosphere agreeably classic. 

Guilford is a large village close to some of the most distinguished lake 
scenery in New England. Its river also is not without many windings, 
punctuated by the grace of elms. 

Foxcroft-Dover is in a region more completely given up to open land 
farming. It is a good type, if we may use the pronoun “it” of a twin 


ATTRACTIVE MAINE VILLAGES 137 


settlement, where a certain amount of manufacturing in a market town 
diversifies the life of the people. 

Newport is a meeting place of roads and the base for visiting the beau- 
tiful shores of Sebasticook Lake. It is prepared to entertain visitors who go 
away with pleasing impressions of an open landscape without great inequali- 
ties of elevation. The same may be said of Skowhegan and Phillips. 
Phillips, however, is not far from distinguished mountain scenery. Saddle- 
back attains the respectable elevation of four thousand feet, and Mt. 
Abraham is almost as lofty. Wilton, with its pond and its background of 
hills, is a village which, together with Weld, also supplied with a fine body 
of water, may attract the guest. Indeed, both these towns have that 
beauty of which we never tire, the conjunction of mountain and lake. Mt. 
Blue, near Weld, was for long a favorite resort in blueberry time, so much 
so that in our childhood we supposed that blueberries were named for the 
mountain! 

Belgrade has become a famous lake center. Its proximity to Augusta 
and Waterville has been availed of locally, and visitors from afar swarm 
in the region. The town of Rome, which was once synonymous for rocks, 
now has a broad highway through it from Augusta and Waterville to Farm- 
ington, and its sharp hills have become a joy. The lakes of Belgrade have 
sO many intricate windings and touch one another in such unexpected 
fashion, that those who sail upon them would require years to feel at home, 
and even then losing the sense of newness, they acquire the sense of 
familiarity which is even dearer. 

The lakes of Winthrop have long been a favorite resort from the 
cities of the Kennebec and from Lewiston and Auburn. The road to these 
lakes in spring or autumn, whether in blossom time or in the time of 
painted leaves, is equally enjoyable. 

Cornish, while mainly perhaps thriving by its industries, and as a local 
market, is a very pleasing headquarters on the Saco, for excursions, in which 
may be included Sebago Lake. Everybody knows the water centers of 


[Text continued on page 147.| 


HILL BLOOMS 
By Mitprep Hogsss 


O ragged trees transformed in May 

To perfume-laden bowers, 

What did you do in a night and a day 
To those old crooked boughs, that sway 
With the weight of velvet flowers, 
Sprinkling showers? 


Where did you find this soft, pink cloud 

Of tinted beads and spangles, 

Wherewith to fashion garments proud 

About your gnarled, rough limbs that crowd 
Their twisted knots and angles 

Into tangles? 


O blue-eyed grass, where blossoms lean 
To brush your tender faces, 

How many fairies have you seen 
Cutting gowns of daimty green, 

And draping all the spaces 

With their laces? 


And did you see them crown the bluff 
With faérie art and notion, 

And sail away upon a puff 

Of downy dandelion fiuff, 

With fitful, dreamy motion 

Toward the ocean? 


138 


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A RETIRING COTTAGE 





MARANACOOK 





CAMDEN MOUNTAINS 


MAT N BY TIN S'P Ro NG 





ATTRACTIVE MAINE VILLAGES 147 


Bridgton and Naples, and the features of Poland are too distinctive to re- 
quire elaboration. We have been happy in finding pictures of fine wood- 
land drives in this vicinity. 

We have already mentioned, though our minds constantly revert to, the 
charms of Wiscasset and Damariscotta. If we were to speak of a red letter 
day in Maine, perhaps the most enjoyable we have had for years, we should 
say it was a spring day in and about Wiscasset. There is a little ice pond 
near the village, whose borders are studded with blossoms, at intervals, 
producing most artistic effects. Then the drive to Dresden, returning 
through Alna, supplied us with delightful scenes. 

We have discussed already the villages of Camden and Castine, and the 
attractions of Bar Harbor. 

Belfast is a little city whose country roads, though not all very smooth, 
are dotted by cottages and skirted by farms and decorated with lakes and 
streams so as to hold our attention. 

Eastport and Calais should be sufficient with their waters and their inland 
drives to the lakes and streams behind them, to hold attention for a long 
time. Princeton and its lakes, among the largest in Maine, when all 
attendant smaller lakes are taken together, is the center of a very important 
and fascinating district. 

Aroostook County, in Houlton, Presque Isle, Fort Fairfield, Caribou and 
Fort Kent, has villages which are headquarters for a study of a fertile and 
magnificent farming district. Here, in a rich soil and in a strong way, the 
people of Aroostook carve their fortunes from their broad lands. In 
Schoodic Lake, and Grand Lake, at the southeast corner of the county, and 
in the very extensive Eagle Lakes at the northern end of the county, 
canoeing at its highest estate calls to the water lover. In fact, the Eagle 
Lakes offer perhaps a longer unbroken water route than any other lake 
route in the state. All this district is yet capable of very much larger 
development. It holds virgin forests and farm lands, so extensive, and 
watered by so many fine streams, that this county alone is worth, and per- 
haps ought eventually to receive, a special volume. Possibly if we unite 


eae MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


Aroostook with northern Penobscot and the whole of Piscataquis, and the 
greater part of Somerset counties, we should have a district unrivaled in | 
the world for its lake attractions. The villages from which one could 
set out are somewhat remote from one’s destination. But these villages are 
largely experienced in supplying the needs of the traveler. They are not 
yet beautiful in themselves, not having had yet the age and necessary de- 
velopment to secure mellowness. They should be thought of more as 
points of departure, just as western villages are regarded. 


SOME MAINE CITIES 


E, shall not enter further into a description of delightful Portland, 
since what we have said of it is all that our chief aim, rural 
beauty, will allow. 

Augusta, owing to its fine Bulfinch capitol of fair native granite, its 
age and other attractions, must now have our attention. The capitol is 
located in a manner to set off advantageously its fine proportions. Happily 
the additions have been made in the spirit of the original. The edifice is 
nearly perfect in its way, for the purpose intended and for the state which 
it embodies. 

We show in Fort Western a delightful reminder of the early days, when 
Augusta was a trading port. Mr. William H. Gannett deserves well of 
his city and state for the thoughtful, faithful, complete restoration as does 
also his technical adviser, Mr. George Francis Dow. We have nothing 
else of this sort restored for us. It may serve to give life to Parkman’s 
histories which should be read here in preference to any other spot. The 
Plymouth Colony traded up the Kennebec. The Kennebec at Augusta has 
just the proper width for beauty. Looking up from Hallowell through 
good clusters of birches, the two towns are seen together. 

The dignity of Augusta, viewed from either bank, is striking. Here 
such brilliant men as Blaine and Bradbury made their homes. But there has 


SOME MAINE CITIES 149 


been long a line of people of quiet cultivation and delightful home life to 
give tone to Augusta. Here also is, so some say, the noblest modern pri- 
vate residence in New England. Here a great dam on the river marks the 
limit of tidal water and provides a basis for that manufacturing which 
forms some part of the life of all Maine’s cities. 

As a touring center Augusta has undeniable claims. It is here also that 
the peculiar contour of the fields formed by the quick dips of clay hills, 
is seen in perfection. The country is rich in green farms. 

Gardiner is a thriving rival of Augusta, to the south, and Waterville to 
the north, and each is the center of alluring drives on both sides of the 
Kennebec. Gardiner is the point where ocean-going steamers must end 
their ascent of the river. It is the site of a home of old world dignity and 
stability, the noble Gardiner mansion still the center of a charming hospital- 
ity. The approaches along the “outlet? to Winthrop pond, as we used 
in childhood to call the great lake, is to be commended, as well as the drives 
to Richmond, Randolph and beyond. Indeed the east bank of the river 
where no cities are, is very pleasing for a long, long way. 

Waterville derives éclat from Colby University, and of course the city 
rejoices in its river power. Winslow with its Fort Fairfax, or the remnant 
of it, is virtually a part of Waterville, while Oakland is the other suburb. 

The Kennebec from Waterville to Richmond is a little empire of fair 
fields and trim homes of activity and alertness. It is one of the four groups 
which make the body of Maine’s activities of the old sort, the others being 
Portland, Lewiston-Auburn, and Bangor. Bangor is really a center of all 
the Penobscot country, with Bucksport, Castine, Oldtown and Orono for 
its outposts. Thriving, ambitious, rich in resources, open to the sea, the 
base of the Aroostook and lake district, it may well consider itself the sec- 
ond center in Maine, and the first in natural wealth. The great island 
above in the river with the contiguous waterways may have stimulated the 
development of the Oldtown canoe to its present perfection. 

Where would one live in Maine, if a choice lay open? A dangerous 

[Text continued on page 155.| 


BOOTHBAY EVERGREENS 
By Mitprep Hoses 


They stand between daylight and dark on the emerald curve of the shore, 

When the heavens are tinged with the sun, and the sea is reflecting the 
moon. 

They sway against slow-fading skies, while the glow of the cove’s tinted 
floor 

Gleams rose through the dusk of the branches, where winds from a far 


Ocean Croon. 


The glistening needles are whispering songs through the rock-clustered firs, 

Through the sweet-scented balsams and pines and spruces deep-shaded 
with blue, 

Whose boughs are the harps of the wind of the sea, when at even it stirs 

The murmuring, soft-sighing echoes of songs that the wise men knew. 


It must be a carol of yule when the voices of evergreens croon, 

While the heavens are filling with stars that are hung on the tips of 
the trees, 

All festooned with a silvery tinsel and ornaments dropped from the moon, 

For the soul of a man they would lift, and the heart of a child they 
would please! 


150 


AVGAHLOOF LSVA—SANId NAAMLAA 








ELM GABLES—~——WATERBORO 





A SPRING WEDDING-—ALNA 





A PATH ON THE SACO-—FRYEBURG 





AN OLD SALT POND—-—-EAST BOOTH BAY 


LET US GO DOWN INTO MAINE! 155 


question, like choosing a wife. There are many calls and so many tastes 
that we must leave the matter open in some degree. If one desires the 
double advantage of salt and fresh waters, without urban conditions, several 
shore towns call us. We have named them. Portland is the supreme city 
for all attractions in Maine. The college towns of course appeal to the 
person who though out of school is always a student. Towns with moun- 
tains and lakes near are found satisfactory in every respect to not a few, 
who enjoy their work within sight of God’s work. A river town is as rich 
as any in the variety of its possible routes, by land or water, in the association 
with worth-while people, and the opportunity for carrying on an occupation. 
Which river town? Oh! that would be telling. The one of course that 
feeds your nature and need and your loves most satisfactorily. 


LET US GO DOWN INTO MAINE! 


HERE Mount Agamenticus calls us, and Cape Niddick and Ogun- 

quit, and Webhannet, and Kennebunk. From Bauneg Beg Pond to 
Mousam river and Alewives pond, let us feel at home at Goose Fair bay, 
and cross the river where the hen did at Biddeford, to reach Casco Bay. 
Up Merriconeag Sound we sail. We dodge Overset and Bustling and 
Stave islands, and make salute at Little Bang. We leave Rogue island 
behind, and doff our caps at Isaiah cove and Ministerial island. Fearful 
of Sister island, we run past Flying Point and Wolfe Neck, and up Har- 
raseekit river, or Maquoit bay, to Bunganuc landing. Where Androscoggin 
bounds Sagadahoc we sail boldly on, leaving the islands, Bold Dick to 
wrestle with White Bull and Brown Cow, and refresh ourselves at Goose- 
berry island and Bald Head cove. At Sequin we glimpse Popham and the 

Kennebec. 

Let us fish in the waters of Cobbosseecontee, of Purgatory Pond or 
Winnegance bay. Let us glide through Fiddler reach, past Doughty point, 
_ or Widgeon cove to Hockamock bay or Nequasset brook, coming to rest on 


156 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


Mt. Ararat in Cumberland county. Let us put in a sentimental day at 
Loves brook or Knight pond, sailing on Nonesuch river, stopping at Dark 
harbor, or Half Moon pond, and resting at last on Doddling hill. Why 
not? 

Oh! let us go down into Maine, to Neontaquet river or Watchic pond, 
to peep through Isinglass hill, at Shy Beaver pond. Setting out from 
Brave Boat harbor, marking progress at Notched pond, hunting on Panther 
lake, let us pass the week-end at Sabbath Day lake or Jordan bay on Sebago, 
but writing home from Inkhorn brook, and renewing our flask at Powder- 
horn island. Dodging Folly and Rum islands, we shall naturally land 
at Bumpkin. We have nothing to do with Bareneck, or Spurwink river, 
as we prefer Oriocoag and Presumpscot rivers, and Knubble bay. Thomas’ 
Great Toe we leave, with Cain pond, to find Pemaquid, oldest of sites, 
whence away to Souadabascook stream, Alamoosook lake, near the Pen- 
obscot, for a real fishing trip, there and on the Kenduskeag, or Sunkhaze 
stream or Nehumkeag pond. 

Let us go down into Maine! At Skowhegan and Norridgewock, in 
Indian wise we fish, and carry to Messalonskee lake, by Crooked river and 
Coffee pond, leaping Breakneck brook, we rest at Anonymous pond and 
wish they all had that name. For why is Papoose pond and Squapan lake, 
when the Indian lived who named Umbazookus, Chemquassabumtook and 
Pattagumpus, “ wonderful lakes of Maine? ” While Pataquongomis and 
Penneseewasee, Passadumkeak and Sisladobsis remain, the waters of 
Allaquash, Keoka, Masardis and Saboois seem tame. 

Let us go down into Maine! There only on Pocomoonshine and Meddy- 
bemps may we fish, there alone break on our ears the euphonious wave 
sounds of Pamedecook, of Moteseniock, of Parmachene, the beauties of Cau- 
comgomock, of Musquacook and Maranacook, of Mopang and Madawaska 
and Mattagamonsis! From Rackabema and Wallagrass we pass in a maze 
to Casabexis, Seboomack, and run the rapids of Ripogenus and Amba- 
jemackomus. We pause at the post office of Ko-dad-jo, and hasten to 
Macwahoc and Meduxikeag, to Skitiwok, and Nahmakanta lakes, for is 


A NATIONAL ASSET 157 


not salmon there? Past Nolsemuck and Baskagegan to Pennaquam and 
Musquash, Madagascal and Gassabias, we paddle enraptured over Migar- 
rawock and Umbajejus and cast anchor in Medunkeunk. At Mooselukme- 
guntic is hunting. At Annabessacook, Megunticook and Chesuncook all is 
well done. You know you are in Maine. 


A NATIONAL ASSET 


AINE is a present or prospective joy to every intelligent citizen of 

our country. It is becoming the most attractive recreational district 

in the United States. We owe it the same attachment that we feel for our 
home grounds, since most of us, when we do have leisure, go to Maine. 

Its extent is ample for all visitors. Its appeals are various enough to 
attract every taste. For in Maine is lonely shore, lonely mountain and 
lonely lake and stream. There is also shore, lake, stream and mountain 
where society congregates. At Poland, Bar Harbor, and Mt. Kineo one 


may be luxurious. In the camps one may live like an Indian or even 


like a lazy poor white man. On the farms one may smell the new hay, 
wander over the berry pasture, enjoy the farm animals and study the 
economy of present day agriculture. In a village like Winthrop one is in 
the midst of orchards, convenient to lakes, by roads lined with the elm and 
maple. At Paris, in Oxford county, one is high above a fair country, and 
amid conditions much as they used to be in old Maine. At Kingfield by 
the cascading Carrabasset we may drive many miles, returning filled with 


: the joys of that lovely stream to our headquarters. At Strong, under the 
_ mountains, we may revel in their fine outlines or wander over their rugged- 


ness, as the mood suggests. 
At the Rangeleys there are all sorts of retreats, all near the bustle of the 


_ greater hotels. At Moosehead lake one need not proceed beyond Green- 


ville for a most satisfactory base, with the beauty of Squaw mountain, Wil- 


son pond and the gemmed isles near. Monson, and farther into the hills, 


158 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


at Onawa, we are in the center of a region altogether good and noble in 
its prospects. 

In Penobscot and Aroostook counties are camps as well provided as 
metropolitan hotels, hard by the freedom of leaping waters and slumberous 
mountains. 

Who could count the bays in Maine or find an end of those secluded, 
artistic, yet accessible water sites waiting for us to develop them, or to enjoy 
those already made ready? Maine holds everything in her great heart 
that the weary man or woman could desire — or should desire. 

The finest pleasure the writer derives from Maine is not its scenery, 
pleasing as that is, or its recreations, however various they may be. To 
talk with a farmer sitting by the open door, in the twilight while the blue 
and gold change in the soft sky and the trees whisper their evening good- 
night, that is among the best of joys. 

A day on a high hill of Manchester, where the great farm house is open 
and gentle sounds of content reach us from the barns, this is enrichment, 
because it is repeating the experience of a myriad generations. To talk with 
a family who that very day has wrestled successfully with the land, and to 
note the sense of quiet mastery, the knowledge of their own pleasure in 
their work is as good as any experience can be. What is the matter with 
the farm and the farmer? Nothing here. It is a good farm, a good 
farmer and a good farmer’s wife. You like it, you cannot help admitting 
that here are the victors, here the sane people, who are in themselves the 
answers to the hectic unrest of our day. 

They read, they think, they talk well. They have tallied their opinions 
by their work, and both are good. We are tired of theories in this so 
speculative world. These farmers have “all the comforts of home,”—a 
good home with every modern convenience. There is electric light and 
power in house and barn. Warmth, cheer, a center for a calm and fair life 
is here. No use to upset the world for these people. They have acquired 
of the world, without cavil, all they need. Yes, they have good heads, else 
they could not have done all this. 


| 


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feel its 
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Hak 


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THE BRIDGE AT NEW VINEYARD 


160 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


But does not a successful merchant require a good head? Can a poor 
head make headway in the professions? Amid all the laments at the 
failures of farmers why does not some one point out that citizens in every 
calling fail, and fail so often and so completely that a farmers’ failure is 
success In comparison. 

Now the finest asset of a nation is the object lesson of men who suc- 
ceed on the land. Not merely to keep the land and enrich it but to become 
broad and intelligent at the same time. 

Nations like Rome knew that the farmers of Italy were her hope and 
shield. Find then a successful Maine farmer and study him. He lives 
in the northern temperate zone where winters are cold. Neither he nor 
his are cold. He is able to know human history, to enjoy nature, to mingle 
in the fellowship, religious or scientific, of the place, and of the larger cen- 
ter. What does he want, at least what does he need, more than he has? 
His needs indoors are neither more nor different from the city man’s needs. 
And outdoors he of the country enjoys an immense advantage. 

So we believe, from experience, that Maine’s chief asset is her people 
who have proved that they can live sanely, comfortably and as good 
citizens where they are, not somewhere else. There are some longings 
that prove shallowness, and some that show a vicious desire to collect a 
living without earning it. While millions complain that society and govern- 
ment is wrong, others, knowing the complaint to be well based, go forward 
and carve themselves out a life serene and rising. ‘They are then, and all 
along their road, better able to assist in the evolution of better society. 

We are not overlooking the shocking evils, the horrors of modern life. 
We are recognizing them fully. And we are pointing out that the hope of 
modern life, and in fact the only hope, is the steady going farmer, such 
as the one who is making good to-day in Maine. 

It is not the nation’s wealth in gold or manufactures that constitutes its : 
assets. It is the men that live successfully, and help the rest of us to do 
the same. 

While millions growl and thousands how] the only really successful men 


SOMETHING NOT BEAUTIFUL 161 


are saying little for publication and speak briefly in the town meeting. But 
when they talk it is out of knowledge. They know what they can do be- 
cause of what they have done. They are constructive and they hold the 
world together. Some one has asked whether the delegates to our national 
nominating conventions consisted of men who had been successful at their 
work. The question was pertinent. What was their work? “ Working ” 
other men? Could any great number of them justify their conscience for 
the outlay of time and money required by this conventioning? Was their 
time worth anything? What are they producing? They hired steam 
noise producers to help their hooting. That was the only production we 
heard. 

The Maine farmer, say a thousand of him in that two weeks, produced 
on his farm a lot of hay, potatoes, strawberries, pork and — character. 
We put it last, because production guided by the producer makes char- 
acter. And that poised, strong, kind, faithful character is the greatest 
production possible and the lasting asset for the nation. It can be drawn 
on at need. It is stronger than the federal bank, and will outlast Maine 
beautiful. 

A people who can make a state, can tame and comb it, can lift its materials 
into forms to fit human needs, a people who can make a state we love to 
live in are the only really rich possession of a nation. 


SOMETHING NOT BEAUTIFUL 


RURAL community must work together more closely than a city 
community. As country communities unite in their granges they may 
also have religious communion by uniting their churches. One little Maine 
town has four church edifices but no church organization. Some good man 
‘might now perhaps unite these people in righteousness. Either pure 
paganism — if paganism is ever pure — or union must ensue. 


[Text continued on page 167.| 


LITTLE TWIN CASCADES 
By Mitprep Hosss 


Little twin cascades — 

Dancing maids, 

Spreading out your bright 

Gowns of white! 

Tossing your billowing ruffles about, 
Flashing them in sunshine with a merry shout! 
Long rainbow ribbons flinging 

Into the air! 

Knowing no care 

But singing, ever singing 

To the green glades, 

Little dancing maids! 


Twin maidens kneeling close beside 
The mother stream at eventide, 

To her broad bosom clinging 
While softly she is singing 

Her moonlight lullaby! 


Little maids 

Of all cascades, 

Dance on with a laugh and song! 

Sing on and on without a care! 
Midsummer comes and it will not be long 
Ere you must leave your rocky playground 
To go forth and bear | 
The burden of the stream with other daughters 
Of singing waters. 

Dance on, dance on, little maids 

Of white cascades! 


162 


LITTLEST WANT CASCADES*+—DAMARTSCOTTA 








THE NARROWS—FRYEBURG 


he 
ay 


ARE 
RON 





CLOUD MEETING SEA 





SOMETHING NOT BEAUTIFUL 167 


The inspiration of some mind, not our own, living and setting forth the 
higher aspects of human nature, and emphasizing from week to week such 
mellowness and kindliness of spirit as must obtain if society is to endure, 
is a crying necessity of country life. There are so many now who almost 
erow to manhood without one noble appeal made to their better natures 
that we tremble. 

The lifting power of a sane teaching in righteousness is too great to 
ignore. Country churches in Maine are largely going backward, and many 
are not going at all. Of course many of the old church edifices are not 
needed, now that we have better roads. Federated churches seem to 
answer the need. So few people these days have any denominational con- 
victions that union is happily more possible than it used to be. The person 
who built himself a church where he maintains worship is happily an 
anomaly and a horrible example. 

In Maine nearly “every prospect pleases.” Some Maine farmers have 
made their farms successful and they themselves are failures. The pre- 
vention is some means to carry new visions before the farmers. Moving 
pictures are new visions. Whether they are stimulants to honor and public 
spirit and purity we do not know. We strike no balance. But there never 
was a good people without a good religion. Unless the Maine farmer has 
an opportunity occasionally to forget himself he will not be worth 
remembering. 

Hitherto denominations have counted for more in the eyes of their 
exponents, it would almost seem, than character. Those who believe in the 
beatitudes and ten commandments should get together to keep our rural 
states from being merely producers of pork, without principles. 


168 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


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OLD PLAN OF FORT WESTERN 


VACATIONING IN MAINE 


F one has only two weeks to rest, how shall he use that time? If one’s 
physical condition is good, he could best see the state as follows: 

Coming to the state by water, to Portland, he should give a day to 
the islands of the bay, and another day to an excursion to York, returning 
by the same route. A third day could be well spent by taking one of the 
routes to Fryeburg and returning by another which would bring him to 
Naples through Bridgton. A day may be spent by visiting Poland by still 
another route. One may then go on to Brunswick and Augusta and spend 
the night at Belgrade. The next day he may run to Rangeley Lakes and 
remain over night. Returning by another route we pass through Stratton 
to Kingfield and so to North Anson, Madison and Skowhegan and thence 
to Greenville on Moosehead Lake. Remaining there for the night or going 


V.LSONONV NUALSAM LUO 


CD lle ~aizas — 








169 


170 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


on to Kineo we may, the next day, by the way of Guilford, Medford and 
Mattawamkeag go to Millinocket. From that point a day or two may be 
put in at the camps by the lakes at Mt. Katahdin. Returning to Millinocket 
or Mattawamkeag we may give two, or three or four days to a journey, 
through the length of Aroostook County to Fort Kent and return. By a 
choice of various routes one goes from Mattawamkeag by Springfield and 
Topsfield to Princeton, where a day may be given to Grand and Long lakes. 
Thence to Calais and Eastport, and Machias. If one has a day to spare 
a northward tour into the lake region where we swing back from Meddy- 
bemps to Machias again, will be found attractive. We go then to Ellsworth 
and Mt. Desert giving perhaps two days. From this point to Bangor by 
way of Castine and Bucksport. A journey from Bangor down the east 
bank of the river through Belfast to Camden brings us to an important 
stopping place. We may have a day or two or more here. Then a day 
at Damariscotta and Wiscasset and Bath and thence to Portland. 


The only necessary variation of this route if one comes in by motor, is 
that he would approach the state from Portsmouth and have a day along 
the beautiful coast towns on the way to Portland. 

It would not be at all wise to attempt to cover the region we have out- 
lined, in one week. Three weeks or more would enable the tourist to learn 
more comfortably the pleasures of Maine. A notable addition would be 
the canoe trip down the Allagash, from the northern end of Moosehead 
Lake to Fort Kent. 

If only one week is available the traveler will do much better not to go 
north of Belgrade and Bangor. 

For a long rest, at points of importance, with every provision for good 
living, one may suggest York, Portland, Poland, Rangeley, Belgrade, 
Augusta, Greenville, Kineo, in the western part of the state. In the east- 
ern portion, Rockland, Camden, Bangor, Castine, Mt. Desert, and various 
camps north of Bangor. We attempt no guide book and make no apology 
for omitting many delightful and important points because it is given to 





Tries OF) bk BOW L——FALCMOUDLH 











NEAR POLAND 


MAY BY THE WAYSIDE 


SKIRTING THE ELM ROW—-NORTH EDGECOMB 


=) AMOR 





THE HEART OF MAINE—-BETHEL 


DUCK TRAP BROOK 


FROM THE FARMER’S DOOR—DRESDEN 








AOIMUAA—ONIHONOTd ANIVW V 





THROUGH THE FIELDS—FRYEBURG 


WELCOME HOME!—WASHINGTON 








THE>RURAL* MATL; BOX 





COUNTRY DELIGHTS ——DRES DEW 


VACATIONING IN MAINE 179 


but few to see everything. There are at least fifty comfortable lake resorts 
which we have not mentioned and as many more village resorts. 

While there is not so much canoeing following the principal rivers we 
think that mode of recreation would prove very attractive, especially as it 
would bring one to many important spots of human interest. 

The writer is very fond of small village hotels and they are fairly 
good. 

The flavor of the region is in such places more fully tasted. We have 
already outlined little journeys from Fryeburg. Similarly from Newport 
one could take a day for Moosehead Lake, another for Augusta and Bel- 
grade. A third for Bar Harbor, a fourth for Castine, and a fifth for 
Millinocket. His stay could be extended by visits to Oldtown, to the north 
Kennebec, and to various local lakes. 

Eastport should be kept for a good half dozen boat journeys, including 
Grand Manan, St. Andrews and the bay to the east of the city. Some such 
excursion from Calais or Princeton would provide an agreeable week or 
summer. Kingfield is a center for Rangeley, for Jackman, for Belgrade, 
and the upper Kennebec. 

There are of course those, in great numbers, who dwell, the summer 
long at Poland, Bridgton or Naples, and others who enjoy an entire season 
at Boothbay or Rockland. Boothbay especially for water lovers is a very 
notable center. There are not a few persons, who, weary, of the world’s 
work, remain close to Camden, Castine, or Bluehill the season through. 
Of course it is well known that dwellers on Bar Harbor never require to 
leave the island. 

Every one has his preferences. The upper and wilder country has a 
very strong appeal, and there are multitudes of Maine visitors who lose 
themselves in the deep woods and never ending series of lakes in the north- 
ern half of the state, making their own camps and living quietly. It is 
feasible to occupy some months in canoeing only and never crossing the 
original track. One may go down the Allagash or the St. John returning 
by the other route. 


180 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


A summer is not too long for the circle of the lakes at the extreme north 
of the state. 

When ladies are of the party and there is reason for limiting expense, 
with a family of children, the thing to do is to seek out some of the 
good boarding houses. The traditions of Maine people are in favor of 
good food in plenty. The writer has boarded in many places in Maine with 
a wide range of charges, but has never yet failed at finding a fairly satis- 
factory meal awaiting him. Perhaps not as much could always be said for 
the beds, but brief investigation may satisfy one as to that important matter. 

We recognize that not every one tours by the roads. We question in 
fact whether those who do so derive as much pleasure as is possible by a 
summer stay in one place. It has appealed to many to have summer homes 
in Maine. They may there satisfy their craving for the picturesque and 
they may also enjoy the pure air of the state where malaria never appears. 
Who would not enjoy getting his mail at Wytopitlock, or who would not 
rejoice in owning Polywog Pond? The Maine residents are glad to see 
us all. Partly they enjoy sharpening their wits upon us. The social life 
of the people of Maine, primarily in the smaller neighborhoods, receives 
an agreeable fillip from the visit of guests from afar. We find that, about 
some things, they are so much better informed than we are, the exchange 
of conversation is profitable. It has been alleged that self conceit is the 
principal barrier to learning, if we except indolence. There are a large 
number of Maine people and the people who visit Maine, who are still 
gifted by that delightful possession, curiosity. Gossip has been very much 
maligned. Certainly it is one of the most agreeable features of life! If 
we are neither bitter nor hard, what more delightful occupation is there than 
to talk about our neighbors? The Maine farmer can tell you just why 
his neighbor does or does not thrive on the farm. There isa certain terrible 
justice in the estimate of his neighbors by a frank man. 

But if there are those with an unreasoning objection to gossip, though 
in practice we have never met them, the parties to a conversation may al- 
ways talk about themselves. 


VACATIONING IN MAINE 181 





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STANDISH DWELLINGS 


The man who cannot learn something from a Maine farmer or a 
Maine farmer’s wife must indeed be very dull. Our final suggestion is 
therefore that the reader journey through Maine for a month or two, seeing 
leisurely its more important features and then that he settle down on a 
Maine farm. The chickens that run about are a visible evidence that plenty 
will appear on the table. A thrifty garden may induce a late stay until 
the green corn is in its prime. It is a well recognized fact that no nectar 
of Olympus, no viand lauded by poets, no notable dish prepared by the 
wiliest chef, is for one moment comparable with an ear of Maine sweet 
corn. One should shut his eyes and use both hands for this supreme feast. 
A little butter is all the lubrication needed. The reader is hereby warned 
however that more than three ears at a single meal are likely to be dan- 
gerous especially after the corn is well filled out. We know because we 


once made a complete meal of this delicacy. 


182 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


The older we grow the hungrier we get for the diet of our boyhood. 
What tomatoes grew then, rich, red and juicy, what peas, what delectable 
wax beans! Is there anything better than a new potato dressed with a 
touch of milk and salt? But we refrain, for we must immediately go to 
dinner! 

Days in memory that help to make a past sharper with warm lights: A 
long day sitting on the rocks of Cape Elizabeth while the tide went and 
came again. Of course we had a book and a friend. This is always safe. 
The conversation of angels sometimes ceases. Sometimes also we weary 
even of the wisdom of books. Then there is the language of the sea as a 
constant resource. The language is not the less delightful, though we 
understand it only in part. 

A day of raspberry picking on Allen’s hill. We passed from clump to 
clump of the well reddened bushes, on the soft turf kept at an agreeable 
length by the sheep that feed about us. We talked in child fashion 
of great things, and we ate our lunch beneath a lone elm by a ledge. The 
white argosies of the sky sailed on through their calm sea. The summer — 
airs caressed us. It was a great day. 

A winter day from Farmington to Augusta in the sleigh. The sun shone. 
There was no wind. A soft snow had touched the fences and the roofs. 
The evergreens stood out above the glinting surfaces. The tang of the 
winter air set red blood tingling. The good horse Jane tossed her head and 
sped on at a steady gait over hill and hollow. Then the joy of arrival. 
How the jolly eyes of our uncle twinkled, and what a thorough business he 
made of “ filling us up ” at the supper table! 

Then there was a day among the islands of Casco Bay. There was a day 
of skirting the entire coast of Maine. There was a day of fishing on China - 
pond. Best of all there was a day of tramping and canoeing to reach 
the spot where Katahdin is most beautiful. Among all these days it im- 
presses us that none of them included a very long journey. When too 
much passes before our eyes in a few hours we become like the man who 
saw the several miles of galleries in the Louvre in an hour and a half. 


VACATIONING IN MAINE 183 


One may say, these things do not interest me. One who makes such a 
remark indicates that he is either supremely wise, supremely ignorant, or 
desperately wicked. While we live let us enjoy learning why, how, and 
where, concerning everything in the natural world. We cannot learn much 
now about heaven. ‘True there are those who would try to tell us of it. 
There is only One who has been interesting on this subject, and His re- 
marks were brief. Shall we not perhaps best indicate our reverence and 
appreciation by looking more carefully at the world we have? 

To our thought the man who, in Maine, dreams of heaven but does not 
see it has an imagination which far outruns his vision. Has any body half 
understood the things that lie all about him? It is a grave question whether 
people who show a contempt for creation or even a carelessness for it are 
really good people however much they may pray. It was Tennyson’s 
thought that God reveals himself in many ways. Have we very fully and 
carefully looked for these revelations in Maine? Somebody has photo- 
graphed the village store and on a postal card has sent its wretched front 
abroad. As Collier says of these meaningless pictures of meaningless 
edifices, what of it? How many good pictures can you find of a district 
ten miles across centering at a Maine village? 

To supply this very lack of worth-while pictures we have examined thou- 
sands of view-points. Is not our country worth giving our careful atten- 
tion? The artist in Holland did not have remarkable themes to paint. 
There is a deal written about the Dutch atmosphere. A similar atmosphere 
is often found anywhere east of the Missouri River. We have wonderful 
compositions from the hands of Holland artists because they did their best 
with the material before them. Similarly, could we have a Corot in Maine 
he would do much more with its fine trees and hills as backgrounds than he 
could do with the everlasting sameness of French poplars. A good many 
apparently valid reasons can be named to explain the production of beau- 
tiful art work, and a good many more can be named to prove that such 
works must be limited in their scope. The plain fact is that the artist will 
produce results according to his genius and effort, wherever he may be. 


184 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


Another plain fact is that America is for the most part a virgin field. 
You many wander in vain in all our art galleries to find a single example 
of any one of thousands of exquisite American landscapes that are to be seen 
as one travels. The artist who should have been painting them was in 
Paris or Rome or in some foreign watering place. He went abroad to study 
and remained abroad. 

The same in great measure may be said of artists here in America. It 
remains for an American Maecenas to provide typical paintings of the beauty 
of all our American counties where the material may be found for worthy 
compositions. In the national capitol we have a few notable western sub- 
jects. In some of our other capitols we have other themes representing 
the development of the states concerned. But where has any state or local 
art gallery or private individual ever attempted to gather representative 
scenes of a state’s beauties? The omission is a capital error, which may yet 
be corrected. 

The pictorial history of our states has thus far been carried on by the 
postal-card artist. He has recorded the triple line of poles in the village | 
street, ending his vista with Silas’ barn. Within a half mile there was a 
lovely stream, a nestling cottage, a bank of ferns or daisies. There was 
“the orchard, the meadow, the deep-tangled wild wood.” Did the photog- 
rapher record these things? Did he try to find them? The owner of the 
barn would enrich the artist by the purchase of two post-cards, and both 
parties to the transaction would be highly elated. Yet if this same farmer, 
so frequently stolid, had been shown a composition which recorded the 
beauties of his back fields, and had been told that they were better than 
Holland, and particularly better than New York, he would have believed 
it. 

If now we could inspire a thousand young men of artistic instincts to 
record the beauties of America there would be a reaction worth while, in 
the way of sustaining the self-respect of our citizens. Our art schools are 
doing nothing for us in this respect, or so little that their efforts are not 
appreciable. They are teaching the pupils to paint some baneful French 


THE SETTING OF A COTTAGE 185 


interior, the abode of luxury and vice. They are not seeking anything 
national. They may reply to this criticism that art knows no national 
bounds. Why then do they so persistently scorn America? The man who 
says that one country is as good as another and then avoids his own country 
on principle may be a good artist but he is a poor logician and a worse 
American. 

If artists wish to show us the beauties of the world in architecture their 
field is plainly foreign, because architecture is a matter of the ages. If 
however an artist is an American as the Frenchman is French he will try 
to do something in America, and will discount largely the fine gesture of his 
foreign teacher who, never having seen America, tells him there is nothing 
in America to paint. 

Would not the picture “ Looking Seaward”” (p. 35) or “ Rounding the 
Cliff ® (p. 11), be worth while for a real artist with a brush? To be sure 
a “Maine Ploughing” (p. 186) may be improved on as a theme, but 
themes so much worse are common that this might be tried. It would re- 
quire no stretch of imagination to perceive that “ Fryeburg Waters” (p. 43) 
or “ Wild Cherry at Boothbay” (p. 191) are better to paint than a red 
barn. 

We therefore more and more see the unimproved opportunities in 


America. 


THE SETTING OF A COTTAGE 


LANNING the future is a joy which enters too seldom into the Amer- 
ican life. The setting of the cottage is a matter of importance. It 

may be that the next generation of youth, when tempted to leave the home 
acres will find the beauty of those acres turn the scale toward continuance 
in the house where they were born. He who plants an oak tree near a 
homestead provides by that act, which perhaps occupies five minutes, a con- 
stant pleasure that may continue for a thousand years. In “ Looking Sea- 

[Text continued on page 195.| 


SONG OF THE ROLLING BILLOWS 
Written by Mitprep Hosss for picture on page 192 


Song of the sea, buoyant and free, 

Sung by the billowing, green-glinting waves of it, 
Bursting asunder in thundering caves of it, 
Testing the strength of the rocks with thew might. 
Pounding the shore with a savage delight; 
Waving long pennons that glitter and glide, 
Riding atop of the onrushing tide; 

Tossing their foam and flinging it leeward, 
Swirling and curling and beckoning seaward, 

Lit by a flash of their own iridescence, 

Teasing the ear with thew swift evanescence; 
Surging, urging the heart to the dance of ut 

Far and away to the azure expanse of 1t— 


Beautiful, magical song of the sea! 


Hiss of the spray seething its way 
Back to the sea and the long-hidden drone of it, 
Down to the plundering deep and the moan of it, 
Dashing the crags with the salt of ts tears. 
Breathing the pain of the unnumbered years; 
Lashing and crashing and rhythmical lull, 
Sad as the cry of a storm-stricken gull; 
Lone as the tone of a bell that is swinging 
Far on the swell of it, mourningly ringing; 
Mighty as songs of an army unconquerable ; 
Hymn of, the universe, music incomparable! 
Billows that roll with the cadence and throb of tt, 
Tearing the soul with the murmuring sob of itt— 
Powerful, masterful song of the sea! 

186 





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MAINE FISHERMEN 


THE SETTING OF A COTTAGE 195 


ward ” (p. 35) we have an instance in which the owner planted or at least 
permitted to grow, an apple tree at the cottage gable. He already had his 
view of the bay with winding shore and a never-ending play of clouds. 
The addition of this apple tree should be enough to influence the growing 
generations. The picture of it must remain in their minds though they 
travel far. Maybe it will bring them back to the old home though their 
feet have wandered into distant states. Beautify, therefore, the cottage 
surroundings. To do so is to reap dividends in home lovers so numerous 
that no financial investment is comparable. Have an apple tree at the 
end of the house and at the back door. Place a couple of oaks at some 
distance from the other end. Provide a square of elms in the rear. Let 
the graceful horse-chestnut, the linden or the locust find their places at 
intervals in front. Preserve an old stone wall with a corner not too far 
from the dwelling. Along this wall serving as a wind break, coax the 
hollyhock and the larkspur to grow. Between the back door and the vege- 
table garden let there be a natural path bordered by low-growing flowers 
so arranged as to show at least one row of brightness all the summer long. 
Let there be a seat hewn from an old stump placed at the foot of the apple 
tree where the garden begins. Then be of good cheer, look pleasant because 
you feel pleasant, and pray. Perhaps the boy will not leave home. If, 
however, he goes, will he find anything better? Beside these home charms 
there will be memories of affection, and the two attractions should prove 
sufficient to bring him back. We have not over much sympathy with the 
mothers who are singing “ Where is my wandering boy to-night? ”, if they 
have allowed their homes to be ugly. We suggest beauty as a lure to hold 
wandering feet. It has often proved sufficient in the past. Is its power 
broken? 

“ Apple and Dandelion Fluff ” (p. 139) is in the rear of a quiet little 
home. The scene is beautiful in itself and beautiful in its suggestion. 
There is the harbor, the blossom, with its present beauty and luscious prom- 
ise, there is the grass and the fairies’ seed of the dandelion. Is this not a 
better place to play than a street full of dashing vehicles? The shade of 


196 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


these trees is even a call to read. The seclusion invites thinking. We ought 
to set traps like this for our young people. If the home is made too at- 
tractive to leave, most of the youth, who are worth holding will be bene- 
fitted. Whether they are worth holding will depend very much on the 
physical surroundings, that is, the setting of the cottage. The daughter 
would be very dull who could not feel the charm of such environment. 
It is part of good religion to create a home from which it is difficult to get 
away. Mill owners used to be contented with barracks for their workers. 
Unhappily, mill workers have so long lived in barracks that they may not 
know what they are missing. What a delight it is to find occasionally a 
village manufactury around which detached cottages with their fruit trees 
are nestled. For the most part land is very cheap in such locations. It is 
intolerable that a manufacturer should be so blind to his opportunity as to 
erect unattractive cottages. Would strikers as soon leave the village with 
cottages enbowered in blossoms and shade as they would leave a bare bar- 
rack? Manufacturers should use the lure of beauty to keep their help with 
them. We have tried everything else in our civilization except common 
sense. We have tried all sorts of religion except a simple one. 

It was a seven years’ wonder that a resident of Fifth Avenue kept a cow 
tethered on his lawn. Probably that cow cost a ground rent of many thou- 
sands a year. There are many things that city people cannot have. They 
choose their own course. Neither Fifth Avenue nor even Central Park 
has anything like “‘ Maine in Spring ” (p. 99). Behind the fluffy blossoms 
is a Maine pine, and beyond the pure water of the pool there are 
maples, oaks and evergreens. The picture is a type of Maine. Its pine, 
singing its quiet song in winter and summer, and affording its protection 
on the north, to the bloom and the fruit! Count the petals, note their 
shading from white to pearl and to rose pink. Lie under the pines on the 
springy turf. Watch the reflections, broken now and then by the water that 
wrinkles its face when the wind kisses it. Then if you wish to return to 
New York, there is no soul left in you. 


THE COUNTRY PARSONAGE 197 





THE STATE HOUSE, AUGUSTA 


THE COUNTRY PARSONAGE 


HE good man who lived here (p. 89) has long since gone to care for 
other sheep. He was mild in his manner and cheerful in his labor. 

At the country church there was many a one who was called in the language 
of the town “a hard case.” That meant whatever particular sin the person 
was addicted to, he had not hitherto been weaned from it. It was a matter 
of dishonest bargaining, or too frequent trips after the “ mail.” Or per- 
haps it was too great fondness for hard cider. How difficult it was to hold 
the people of the countryside to a standard of six days’ good work and one 
day’s rest. There was one farmer, who would work seven days. Most of 
the others could hardly be induced to work six. Sermons on the vineyard 
and the sower were common. Many a broad hint was dropped by the honest 
preacher on the matter of stewardship. After such occasions he was thought 
too personal by certain parishioners, whereas the others were rejoiced that 


198 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


he “ hewed to the line.” The good man was past middle age, else the parish 
could not have held him. He sawed his own wood, kept his own garden, 
and pruned his own trees that we see here. It was the proper thing to have 
the minister for supper. We do not mean we ate him but ate with him. 
On the occasion of a clerical visit it was agreed between two neighbors as 
follows: “ You eat him and Ill sleep him.” At the ministerial supper the 
meats were followed by a superabundance of dessert. In addition to a 
suet or plum pudding there was squash pie, and to crown all, mince pie and 
strawberry preserves. Any meal at which this honored guest was present 
would have been thought marked by heresy without the last two named 
dishes. The farmers were uniformally respectful to the guest, however 
little they followed his precepts. They knew that he lived the life he 
professed. 


WELCOME HOME 


N our picture with this title (p. 177) stands the old collie, hopeful and 
faithful. The cottage with its twin trees is a little one, but it is fairly set 
and has that rare grace in country cottages, a generous distance from the 
high road, it being approached by its own private way. Such a situation 
creates a little kingdom for the happy inhabitant. The owner in this case 
is a blacksmith, who has thriven and maintained his home far from any 
large market. Washington is a purely rural town. It is just such a town, 
however, that simple people of moderate property should seek. It gives 
an opportunity to purchase a country place of ample size. It is so pleasant 
to have all the components of a small farm, pasture, woodlot, and fields. 
Only today we read that the population of Holland is very much crowded, 
but our immigration laws have made it impossible for the Hollander to find 
an adequate outlet in America for his diligence and skill. We face the — 
question of inducing our own people to use such good lands as are to be 
found in Washington and other towns of its type, or to allow the European 
to do it. Perhaps the recent laws to restrict immigration so rigorously are 
the first instance in human history of this sort. It raises a strong presump- 


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WELCOME HOME 203 


tion against any law that no other nation has ever found use for it. It is 
popular with some trades to keep immigration down. Is there any trade 
that would not be benefited by a large influx of farmers into America? It 
is idle to say that there is already more produce raised than can be marketed. 
The products of staples for export in America are not increasing in quan- 
tity. We shall not be happy until in such states as Maine we see all the 
good farms supplied with good farmers. Not in recent times has there 
been such an opening. Land is ready cleared and largely fenced and build- 
ings are provided, and at a cost far less than the edifices themselves would 
require for present construction. There is something wrong in politics, or 
some defect in the diffusion of knowledge when a good farm goes untilled. 
We have already mentioned that the orchards are neglected. Their neglect 
is more obvious than the neglect to land. There is a broad extent of acres 
in Maine capable of producing a better living than is available to millions 
of Europeans, in their own country. 

We suggest that a modification of the immigration laws to permit a 
state to solicit in Europe and receive on its acres approved farmer proprietors 
would be an advantage to all parties concerned. There are various articles 
on which there is not an over production on the farm. 

The case is not fully met by real-estate agencies that are successful in 
inducing city people to invest in farms as summer residences. The value to 
a state of a non-resident owner is open to question. We think that here and 
now it is better that the farm should be owned by a non-resident who is 
interested in it than that it should be in the hands of neglectful owners, 
whether they dwell on it or have removed from it. We could wander for 
years over starved fields which are neither encouraged to produce wood 
nor used as pasture or any other purpose. If a new proprietor expends 
money in an effort to restore such fields, he helps the state directly, and 
indirectly by employing labor. 

Of course the most valuable citizen is a resident owner, such as is common 
in Pennsylvania, where an intense pride in a farm and a sense of debt to 
the land is a characteristic feature. 


204 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


Can the state do anything to induce a love for the land and an interest 
in keeping up the farm homesteads? We think that a series of pictures 
of the before and after sort, published in the various local papers would 
be beneficial. A neglected homestead is first to be shown, then a picture 
of the same homestead restored to good condition and a certain degree of 
beauty. Local publications could probably do a good deal by illustrating 
ideal farm houses. Thus the exotic types not adapted for a Maine climate 
such for instance as the bungalow, could be shown to be wrong. The 
simpler earlier homesteads could be taken as types. Farmers could be 
shown by illustration and by detailed methods how to render brick and stone 
walls impervious to moisture, and so desirable as residences. This is im- 
portant because stone is often available where lumber must be drawn. 

The use of pictures in newspapers is very much neglected as a feature 
of interest. The cost of paper suitable to produce half-tones is prohibitory. 
The only resources is line drawings. If these could be used by syndicates 
of country papers their cost would be negligible. 

The danger to be apprehended in such an attempt is the employment of 
a theoretical architect. He is sure to attach something to his buildings that 
adds neither to their use or beauty. The basis of the work should be good 
old farm houses and barns which have long been in the hands of successful 
farmers. There are many things attractive to the eye which no farmer 
can afford to erect, if he must gain the wherewithal from the soil. About 
the first thing an architect would suggest is a great quantity of stone fence 
laid in mortar. This is almost always a total waste. The same construction 
in house walls would be sensible. 

A consideration often forgotten is the climate in which the erection is 
to be made. What is suitable for Pennsylvania would not be wise in 
Maine. 

An important question to ask of any construction is, how long will it 
last without repairs? The cost of paint is prohibitory. A farmer has an 
obsession in favor of paint, or at least his wife has. Natural wood seems 
an abomination in their eyes. Nevertheless, it is beautiful especially as 


WELCOME HOME 205 


an interior finish, and requires slight attention. Out-of-doors, masonry 
walls could be encouraged more and more, on the score of durability and 
availability. Any farmer can do what pointing is necessary on such walls, 
and can do it in weather when painting would not be possible. Also he can 
use materials of very small cost. 

A definite search for the proper farm buildings would easily result in an 
abundance of material for illustration. Wee see, in journeying through the 
country, repairs or additions being made to very many farm houses. As 
often as otherwise the additions are made rather to be in fashion than to 
be useful, and the repairs are of such a character that they will have to be 
done over in a brief time. 

The passion for newness, aside from any merit connected therewith, 1s 
the cause of a vast amount of wrongly directed expense. If the money 
wasted in repairs in Maine were expended in accordance with the wisdom 
of experience the state could almost be built over in a generation. 

It would be easy for a state to provide through its agencies already es- 
tablished, competent advice as to style and fitness of edifices. It would be 
a far more sensible act than that of giving out seeds gratis. It is true that 
many trained men are trained in a one-sided manner so that the selection 
of such men should be based on most practical considerations. 

If a sufficient body of material such as we have suggested were published 
from week to week and year to year, the rural districts of Maine would be 
educated in the best forms and materials for their use. The present obstacle 
is the lack of good examples and the abundance of horrible examples. By 
this we mean that the city house erected in the country is perhaps the last 
thing that the farmer needs. 

If a love for the preservation of the old could be inculcated, the task 
would be half done. Good houses are continually being abandoned because 
they are old and new dwellings erected. It is to the interest of the car- 
penter, or at least so he conceives it, to erect new structures. Carpenters 
dislike working with old materials. A farmer will sometimes say that it 
would cost him almost as much to repair as to build new. Even so, if he 


206 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


repairs properly, he may have something of large value to show for his 
labor. But if he builds it is quite likely that his children will be ashamed 
of what he has produced, because good taste today in building is not as 
common as it was a hundred years ago. 

Farm buildings should either be well kept up or torn down. Modern 
costs of foundations are so great that more and more the scale turns in 
favor of repairs rather than new construction. We would almost hazard 
the statement that the lines of a substantial farm house built before 1820 
can seldom be improved. The addition of a bath-room, by the appropria- 
tion of a chamber which the modern small family does not need, and the 
installation of a central heating system, are needed and are the only features 
in construction which the nineteenth century has produced of any impor- 
tance. Of course, modern lighting is taken for granted. 

As the pictures of improved dwellings, sedulously published, would be 
of importance, so also would illustrations of neglected fruit trees compared 
with carefully tended trees be of use. Perhaps garden pictures would not 
be sufficiently clear to be worth while. The training of vines and flowers 
about the dwelling, and the setting of such a dwelling amid shrubs and 
trees, could be very well illustrated. 


OLD DWELLINGS IN MAINE 


E have stated that the proportion of such old dwellings is very much 
smaller in Maine than in the southern New England states. Maine 

iS a new country except for its shore and lower river districts. The one- 
story dwelling with one chimney, a square front entry, and a room on each 
side, is the typical old house of Maine, just as it is of the rest of the New 
England states. The roof has a good pitch, and the chimney is large unless 
it is modern. In the course of improvements a one- or even two- 
story ell has been added. This house may date in the eighteenth or 
early nineteenth century. It never had any porch, nor was there an 


OLD DWELLINGS IN MAINE 207 


overhang roof. The glass in the windows was always small, prob- 
ably never larger than eight by ten inches, and usually less than that 
size. The original boards of the floors were of wide pine, sometimes yel- 
low, sometimes white. There was a fire-place in each of the rooms. Some- 
times there was a small fire-place in the attic rooms in case the attic was di- 
vided. Despite the simplicity of such a dwelling, it has a strong attraction. 
It is so obviously built to fit a need, and so perfectly represents the early life 
of the settlers that we find it most satisfactory. Of the earliest period of 
architecture there are very few examples beyond what we have mentioned. 
Every one of the ancient houses of Pemaquid has vanished. Even the 
block-house of stone has been largely reconstructed, and the other block- 
houses date in the eighteenth rather than in the seventeenth century. 

The old house in Maine, as the Maine man thinks of it, is the eight room 
dwelling with four chimneys, two in each side wall, which came into fash- 
ion at the time of the Revolution and continued to about 1820. You will 
find an example of such a house as we show at Wiscasset. All the coast 
towns have similar dwellings. They sometimes rise into a third story, al- 
though that construction is a little late and is not likely to be so good in 
style. At the time of the Revolution, the interior of these dwellings was 
carefully done with a good deal of panel work about fire-places and stair- 
ways, and with large and excellent cornices of wood. There was a rapid 
declension after 1790, and about 1810 we find the rooms very boxy, with- 
out cornice, without dado, and with somewhat plainer fire-places. There 
was also a rapid declension in the style of the iron work. Latches in the 
later time were made of plates struck out on a die cutter. Wrought work 
disappeared. Modern butts superseded the large, visible hinges of the 
doors. Nearly all the ornament on houses after 1800 was on the outside. 
There the decoration was not seldom ornate. One sees an edifice of this 
sort and thinks of it as a very fine dwelling. As soon, however, as he steps 
over the threshold he finds that the interior construction is as bare as a 
barn. Seekers for old houses should carefully observe these indications of 
declension in style, and so avoid a rude awakening. There are thousands 


208 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


of people today who are scurrying about trying to buy old paneling to make 
their old houses older. For the most part their search is vain. Such items 
as these are now held at fancy prices. The buyer of an old house in Maine 
is, however, likely to get what he wants, if he knows what that is. The 
style of house we are now describing is not uncommon. If the edifice had 
brick sides or ends the chimneys would not require to be built over, but at 
least that chimney which 1s to be used for heating should be carefully 
examined. A feature to be avoided is a roof of low pitch. Constant leaks — 
and constant renewals go with such inadequately pitched roofs. If the 
searchers can find a dwelling erected before the Revolution, the roof is 
usually of sufficiently high pitch. We would strongly advise against the 
improvement of any old house so as to spoil its style. It has a genius of its 
own, and should be kept to its original scheme or the result is a very un- — 
satisfactory mongrel. ‘The charm is entirely lost by dragging in some 
feature inconsistent with the original design, and bearing no relation to 
other parts of the house. 

Such houses as we have mentioned may be found along the banks of all 
the navigable streams and in all the coast towns and on most of the roads 
that date back to the period concerned. 

Dwellings of the sort we are describing are always airy, ample in size, 
and require no additions. Their four chambers supply as much room as 
is required because the hall bedroom may be taken for a bath-room. If 
other bath-rooms are desired, there is often a dressing-room between the 
two side-rooms which can be utilized. One other improvement may often 
be added to advantage, and that is a dignified cornice of wood about the 
rooms. It 1s probably best to stop with the improvements outlined. The 
advantage of adding paneling scarcely justifies the pains and the other 
changes required. 

If one contents himself with the dwellings of the revived Gothic period 
of 1830, it is best to leave them as we find them except for plumbing and 
heating. These dwellings are not as bad as they are painted. The chief 
objection to them is the high ceiling, but this is not felt in the summer ex- 


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210 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


cept asa merit. Of course they are without the touch of good artisanship, 
but that is to be expected in the nineteenth century. One could hardly 
commit a more depressing error than to try to change the style of one of 
these houses to the period of fifty or sixty years before. Should he unfor- 
tunately start on this crusade he would find himself spending more than 
would be required for just such an old house as he is imitating. 

One little detail, which nevertheless is very apparent as we approach a 
dwelling, is the woodshed. The old flat arches ought to be built or re- 
stored, and the wood-pile neatly laid up with sawed ends outward. No 
other expenditure can afford so much pleasure in the quaint and the 
practical. 

It is very common to find the old barn on the side of the road opposite 
the house and in a direct line with the best view. In that case it is wise to 
demolish the old structure and to provide such a barn as may be needed a 
good distance from the dwelling, and in a location that cannot be criticized. 

With the fluctuations of human affairs it is hardly likely that the present 
condition will continue, by which good old places with farms attached may 
be purchased in Maine for low prices. We have a growing population, 
and the attractive portions of the country have been covered by their first 
settlements. It is now time to go over the ground for a second inspection, — 
and to learn what good things have been left behind by the western urge. 
It is difficult to predict when the resurge of populations will occur. It is 
perfectly certain, however, that some time, and probably not many years 
hence, it will be felt that the best opportunities are in the east. We ought 
to pick the berries that are nearest us. Perhaps those beyond are culled 
or sour. Probably not in modern times have country opportunities, equal 
to the present, existed. 





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BY TUR RAN GE DEY, ROAD 


WELLS AND SPRINGS 215 


WELLS AND SPRINGS 


N a country so rich in waters as is Maine, it is difficult to picture the im- 


portance attached in arid lands to wells and springs. Perhaps the first 
human construction of an engineering sort, after the irrigation of the 


cradles of the race, was the digging of wells. The ownership of a well was 
better than that of a mine. Battles for possession are among the earliest 
tales of history. The love-making of Moses and Jacob was centered about 
wells. The greatest sermon ever delivered had the well by which the 
preacher stood asa text. In western Europe the stream was too often made 
to do duty instead of wells. But where a gushing natural spring occurred, 
the spot was ornamented in all ages by temples or gardens, or at the least 
by a coping or a receptacle carved with art and adorned by appropriate 
inscription. 

In New England the town pump was first the village center. As settlers 
became thrifty, enterprising, or opulent, they dug each for himself a well. 
The ancient wells of Maine are among its most interesting objects. It 
seems to be the prevailing impression that the well-sweep is the earliest 
form. We very much doubt the correctness of this impression. Certainly 
in the old world, hundreds of years before the settlement of America, the 
windlass well was common. It seems far more probable that a windlass was 
in use in America for the most part, from the earliest times. We think that 
the well-sweep was a contrivance quickly adjusted, with the thought, prob- 
ably, of superseding it by a windlass. In fact, heretical as it may seem, we 
think a windlass well, at least if it has a fairly good canopy, is more pic- 
turesque than a well-sweep. The old windlass often had a balancing stone 
to counteract the weight of the bucket of water. But the well-sweep, when 
situated in a picturesque location (p. 80), backed by apple blossoms, has its 
merits. One still finds it, now and again, in Maine. Sometimes, indeed, 
the old oaken bucket is replaced by a tin pail. Of course it is well under- 
stood that water from a bucket is very much better than froin any other 
receptacle. We are not, however, among those who consider that a well- 


216 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


sweep is the only thing required to give an atmosphere of antiquity to a 
Maine homestead. 

If we were to speak of convenience, and to remain in the realm of the 
practical, we should find that the watering of the stock, and the various 
other calls for watering in quantity, make it inevitable, on a Maine farm, 
that some more convenient source of water supply should be provided. 
One of the greatest burdens of our grandmothers was the necessity of 
pumping water. The writer’s own grandmother sustained a terrible tragedy 
by the flying up of a pump handle. The burden of bringing the water, 
which was often left to the women of the household, was very great. For 
this reason, the slopes behind the farm houses were investigated for springs, 
and the enterprising farmer has a supply flowing to his buildings by gravity. 
More recently the very small charge for electrical power has stimulated 
the installation of pumps to bring water up from flowing sources below 
the dwellings. In these particulars the Maine farmers indicate their alert- 
ness, and farm life is relieved by this improvement, and finally, by the 
cream separator, of its last drudgery. 

It is curious, in this connection, how we hark back to our childhood, even 
to those features which emphasize the toil and burden of that day. It is 
only necessary to think of the things that are done easily today, to perceive 
in a moment how complete the change has been. All the heavy work on 
the farm is or may be done in our day by power. It was amazing and in 
some degree amusing to see, on a recent visit to Maine, the more con- 
servative farmers engaged in the manipulation of the buttons and the valves 
which let loose the powers of electricity or gasoline to do their work. This 
is one of the alleviating aspects of the labor question. We are acquainted 
with one farmer in Maine who has dispensed with the work of two men by | 
employing power which he can pay for, through a week, for the cost of one 
day’s labor. 


THE SUPERIORITY OF COUNTRY LIFE 217 


THE SUPERIORITY OF COUNTRY LIFE 


ILENCE in our day is greatly to be desired. It is necessary to the 

thinker. It can be had only in the country, on a homestead removed 

far from the highway. We have no sympathy with the city dweller who 

complained he could not sleep in the country because the nights were so still. 

The weak point of our physique in the present day, is nerves. We force 

ourselves to do many things under a handicap of confusion. We pay the 
penalty. It is an unnecessary penalty. 

Pure air is now to be found only in the country. It is a question of a 
short time before the main arteries of our cities will be absolutely intoler- 
able from the fumes of gas. Formerly, in a city of moderate dimensions, 
one might have pure air. Now it is impossible. Pure water can be guaran- 
teed only in the country. Some of us have not forgotten the uproar caused 
a generation since by the discovery of a contaminated water supply in one 
of our greatest cities. In the country one may absolutely guard for a long 
distance in every direction the source of his water supply. That is to 
say, he may have water as pure as he likes. Not only so but, if he chooses 
to pipe it through an old well, he can have it as cold as he wants it, without 
Ice. 

Fresh supplies one may guarantee in the country. No wealth is sufficient 
to insure them in town. Produce brought in to the kitchen immediately 
from the garden and the farm has a flavor otherwise impossible to obtain. 
The milk supply particularly is of supreme importance when there are 
children. Warm, fresh milk, can never be had except on the farm. It 
can never afterwards be so manipulated as to bring back what it has lost. 

Freedom from fire can absolutely be guaranteed in the country by proper 
construction. In the town, however fire-proof a dwelling may be, one 
never can guarantee the character of the dwellings about it. Farm prop- 
erties are poor risks, since a cheap and an inflammable farm house will 
bring more at the insurance office than at the real-estate office. But the 


[Text continued on page 228.| 


THE RANGELEY LAKES 


Written by Mr_prep Hosss for picture on page 221 


Capricious waters smiling im the sun 
With the benign composure of a mun! 


The birches offer up their calm oblation — 
White sisters lost in silent meditation. 


A fishing yacht serenely floats upon 
The golden surface like a snow-white swan. 


But sudden winds, spruce-fragrant from the west — 


And the quick waters dance in gay unrest! 


They rush past forest cabins in a glee, 
Churning the lakes into a mad-cap sea. 


Somewhere a loon’s weird cry, a herons scream! 
The swan-ship tosses in a restless dream. 


The Rangeleys are a sparkling pendant hung 
Upon a chain of rivers sapphire-strung, 


O what a course to sail! And what delight 
To join the rapid currents foaming fight! 


And then over the portage pack our load; 
Across the island, on the old tote road! 


O life of joy! To travel light, and sail 
The windings of an Indian water trail! 


218 












































i 











MAINE FARM PRODUCTS—GREENVILLE 





A RANGELEY ROAD 





A RANGELEY LANDING 


NAAUOS ADTIAIONVY V AYXIYUNVA—HAV I HNIVAW HILLI I V 








A NOW NID ESE RT COVE 





ALONG) RANGEL EY (BAIN ROS 








ANDROSCOGGIN ELMS 


Written by Mitprep Hosss for picture on page 225 


O stately elms that form a feathery screen 

Along the Androscoggin’s quiet shore, 

Through your magnificence of spreading green 
The rounded lines of wooded mountains soar. 
Through the cool shadows of your arching boughs 
The waters of the river-windings gleam, 

Where peacefully and dreamfully they drowse 
Down past the village Rumford on the stream. 


You are the comforters along the way. 

The beauty of your graceful, drooping limbs, 

Your rustling leaves,— something they seem to say 
Besides the murmuring of river hymns. 

Something of heaven's peace you would confide, 

O stately bending elms, New Englana’s pride! 


227 


228 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


householder who really desires to protect his premises, can go as far as he 
likes in the country. 

The country alone is the home of those who would study nature at its 
source. The great museum at Harvard has a multitude of flowers done in 
glass. It is a wonderful achievement. A dweller in Maine, with the 
title deeds to a farm of fair dimensions, has within the scope of his walk 
almost as many flowers and shrubs and trees as he can ever count and 
classify. In their soft freshness and in inimitable fragrance they appeal 
to him. He may toss his babe among the buttercups and put it to sleep 
on the daisies. Over it may wave the myriad leaves. The sky is the 
cradle canopy. It is better to live nature than to write about it. 

The most important benefit of country life, however, lies deeper than 
any of those we have mentioned. It is the reaction on our human nature 
that arises from plenty of room. The most pernicious thing in city life 
is its crowding on the streets, in the conveyances, in the rooms. The real 
dignity of human nature is lifted by the mere fact that space about us is 
unoccupied by a crowd of human beings. It is easier to think on broad 
lines when we are in the country. We obtain a better perspective. There 
is greater truth in our vision. We gain poise and the power of estimating 
values. In this aspect, country life is more important for the thinker than 
for those who work only with the hands. 


WHAT EXPLORERS THOUGHT OF MAINE 


DAM OF BREMEN wrote of the Northmen in New England: 
“Sueno, King of Denmark, to whom I paid a visit, described to me, | 

in conversation on the northern countries, among many other islands, one 
which had been called Vineland, because the vine would grow there without 
any cultivation, and because it produced the best sort of wine. Plenty of 
fruits grow in this country without planting. This is not mere rumor. I 
have this news from very authentic and trustworthy relations of the Danes. 


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230 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


Beyond this land, however, no habitable country is found. On the con- 
trary, everything to the north is covered with ice and eternal night.” 

This was an impression obtained in America about the year 1000. André 
Thevet, in 1556, wrote thus of the coast of Maine, referring to the Pen- 
obscot river: ‘‘ Here we entered a river which is one of the finest in the 
whole world. We call it Norumbega. It is marked on some charts as the 
Grand River. The natives call it Agoncy. Several beautiful rivers flow 
into it. Upon its banks the French formerly erected a small fort, about 
ten leagues from its mouth. It was called the Fort of Norumbega, and 
was surrounded by fresh water. 

“ Before you enter this river, there appears an island surrounded by 
eight small islets. These are near the country of the Green Mountains. 
About three leagues into the river, there is an island four leagues in circum- 
ference, which the natives call Aiayascon.* It would be easy to plant on 
this island, and to build a fortress, which would hold in check the whole 
surrounding country. Upon landing, we saw a great multitude of people 
coming down upon us in such numbers that you might have supposed them 
to be a flight of starlings. The men came first, then the women, then the 
boys, then the girls. They were all clothed in the skins of wild animals.” 

Abbott, in his history of Maine, speaking of the voyage of Martin Pring, 
in 1603, says: “On the 7th of June, Pring entered Penobscot Bay. He 
gives a glowing account of the almost unrivalled scenery there presented. 
They found excellent anchorage, and fishing-ground never surpassed. The 
majestic forests deeply impressed them. Upon one of the islands they 
saw a number of silver-gray foxes. This led them to give the name of 
Fox Islands to the group. Sailing along the coast in a south-easterly 
direction, they passed by the beautiful islands which stud Casco Bay, and 
entered a river which was probably the Saco. This they ascended about 
six miles. It seems probable that they also entered the Kennebunk and 
York Rivers. Finding no natives to trade with, they sailed farther south, 
where they obtained quite a valuable cargo.” 

* Islesborough 


LYAsad LNNOW—AWIL ASIVAG NI NAAAO LNNOW 








SUNKHAZE STREAM—-MILFORD 





AN EVERGREEN DRIVE—GREENVILLE 


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LAKE SEBASTICOOK——-NEW PORT 


WHAT EXPLORERS THOUGHT OF MAINE 235 


The frequency of lakes in Maine is thirty times as great as 1n the central 
and western part of the United States. These lakes are situated largely in 
the mountain sections of the state, so that their waters may be used over 
and over again in the stream by which they reach the sea. 

The working energy of the water powers if fully utilized would equal 
that of thirty-four millions of men. 

Europe is indebted to our clover, which was unknown before the dis- 
covery, as sowed grass. In the latter part of the nineteenth century it 
had become the leading grass in France. 

Captain George Weymouth in 1605, coasting along Maine, came to 
what is now believed to be Monhegan. It appeared to him very beautiful. 
He judged it to be about six miles in circumference. The anchorage was 
good, and cod and haddock were caught in abundance. Waterfowl in 
large flocks were hovering over the cliffs. ‘“ They obtained an abundance 
of delicious salmon, and other fishes in great variety. They also feasted 
upon lobsters and other shell-fish. Wild currants were found, and luxuri- 
ant vines which promised an abundance of grapes. They found the soil 
to be very rich. Digging a garden, they planted pease, barley, and other 
seeds, which in sixteen days grew up eight inches. This was the first 
attempt made by Europeans to cultivate the soil of Maine.” [It was hot, 
but — eight inches! Autuor.| 

“ The charms of Penobscot Bay and River, as witnessed in the illumina- 
tion of bright June mornings, seem to have delighted these voyagers as they 
had others who preceded them. The scenery is described as beautiful in 
extreme, with luxuriant forests and verdant meadows. The river was wide, 
deep, and of crystal purity. A great variety of birds of varied plumage 
flitted through the groves, and their songs filled the air. There were many 
sheltered coves, with grassy banks, luring the voyagers to the shore. In 
glowing phrase the journalist of the expedition writes: ‘Many who had 
been travellers in sundry countries, and in most famous rivers, affirmed 
them not comparable to this. It is the most beautiful, rich, large secure- 
harboring river that the world affordeth.” 


236 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


“ But it was a picturesque scene, as, in the sunlight of that calm June 
sabbath, the voyagers gazed upon the panorama which encircled them. The 
ship was at anchor upon the mirrored waters of a solitary cove, far away in 
the New World. Bays, inlets, and islands were opening in all directions 
behind them. Birch canoes filled with Indian men, women, and children, 
driven by the paddle, were gliding from shore to shore. Not far from the 
ship, on the land, were the few frail wigwams which the Indians had 
reared. The fire at which the women were cooking, the ascending smoke, 
the groups gathered around, all combined to present a picture as novel as 
it was attractive.” 

In the Gazetteer of Maine by George J. Varney, 1881, it is stated that 
on the official map may be counted 5151 streams. It is an easy number 
to remember. If we consider that there are at least twenty beauty spots 
on every stream, we arrive at pictorial riches unspeakable. Seven of these 
streams connect interior water-sheds with the sea. Beside that, there are 
nineteen streams flowing into the sea, but without any connecting streams 
behind them. What Mr. Varney refers to as an official map is, of course, 
the state map which was so considered. It must be remembered, however, 
that this map is largely made up without surveys in detail. There may be, 
that 1s to say, on the final maps of the Geodetic Survey, a greater number 
of streams than Mr. Varney mentions. 

The valleys of Maine do not ordinarily reach the dimensions or the 
steepness of gorges. A very notable exception is the gorge of the western 
branch of the Penobscot. 

In the higher lands of the state a very slight elevation is sufficient to 
change the destination of the waters. In time of freshet the Penobscot 
actually mingles its head waters with the Allagash, the Aroostook, and 
the St. Croix. The Kennebec, with the present system of dams, may be 
added to this community of waters. The fellers of logs are able to direct 
the drift of the timber, in many cases, so that it will go down the Kennebec, 
the St. John, or the Penobscot. 

Regarding the elevations in Maine, they may be considered as a con- 


WHAT EXPLORERS THOUGHT OF MAINE i 


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ASHEEPSCOT COTTAGE 


tinuation of the Appalachian chain, extending from Georgia to Katahdin. 
The form of the Maine mountains is often conical or otherwise of an 
interesting shape. 

Megunticook in Camden is about 1457 feet in elevation, Green Mountain 
about 1533 feet, both of these are shown (pp. 145 and 256). 

The elevation of Moosehead Lake is about 1100 feet above the sea. It 
is the highest large body of water in the east. 

As to the count of lakes and ponds, that has been confused somewhat 
with their combined area. It has been stated that their number was 2222, 
and that their combined area was 2200 square miles. The coincidence will 
bear examination. Nevertheless, Mr. Varney states that on the maps 
of Maine there are represented 1568 lakes and ponds. We can testify to 
having found lakes which are not on those state maps, though we believe 


238 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


everything of the sort is shown on the Survey map. We should count it 
therefore, an undoubted fact that the reputed number of lakes is not too 
great. 

We are informed that the state laws forbid the entire shutting off of 
any lake exceeding seven acres in area. That is to say, a right of way must 
be accorded to the lake if it is more than seven acres in extent. This pro- 
vision, of course, arises out of the insistence in ancient common law on the 
rights of the common man. It is thus impossible for any one to secure 
absolute property control in any extensive body of water, although he may 
own all the land bordering that body. 

Absolute ownership in little lakes has, however, been availed of in many 
instances by those who have stocked these lakes with fish. In one instance 
an owner used his rights in a commercial way, making a charge by the hour 
for fishing. His water was so well-stocked that the fisher was not without 
value received. Private ponds thus make available to their owner a supply 
of fish, and the raising of fishes is a minor industry. The hatcheries of the 
state will supply to a proper person stock for replenishing streams, and 
this without charge. It appeals to the imagination of many to own a private 
pond. Such persons may easily gratify their desires in Maine. 


THE ROMANCE OF THE KENNEBEC 


HATEVER is the basis of the perpetual allurement connected with 

“old forgotten far off things,” we find it in our nature, sometimes 

so compelling that the past seems more important than the present. Of 

course it is easy to overdo our love of the old. Life, however, has a breadth 

and richness dependent largely on its sense of continuity with the past. He 

who enjoys only the present cannot find as great pleasure as he who thinks 
of the present as a part of a great whole. 

Whether or not it is rational, it is nevertheless true that the people of 

Maine derive a certain pleasure from the fact that there were settlements 


THE ROMANCE OF THE KENNEBEC 239 


on their coasts before the time of the Pilgrims. The island of Monhegan 
was long a headquarters for fishing before any permanent settlement was 
attempted. Residents of Cushnoc, now Augusta, are conscious of a better 
historic sense since they know that Captain Gilbert reached the site of their 
city in 1607. The river was long an avenue of communication between the 
sea and the St. Lawrence. The carries are short. 

The Pilgrim Colony, as early as 1625, exchanged corn on the Kennebec 
for beaver skins. Edward Winslow, a man of education, fine feeling, 
and pleasing manners, was at the head of this little expedition. The Pil- 
grims were in debt up to their ears, and, as there was a settlement at 
Kittery, and as the French claimed the region from the Penobscot eastward, 
the Kennebec offered the only important water route into the interior. 
The Pilgrims, therefore, at much trouble and expense, procured a patent 
for the Kennebec region. Mr. Allerton brought back from England, with 
the patent, goods for trading. Fort Western, therefore, is not the earliest 
erection at Augusta. The Pilgrims had a trading-house; and Mr.:George 
Francis Dow points out that in 1692 the remains of the old trading-post 
were then visible, sixty-four years after it was built. 

On the first visit to Cushnoc, Governor Bradford states that the leader, 
Mr. Winslow, was accompanied by “some of ye old standards,” by which 
phrase he refers to members of the Mayflower Company. 

It is a matter of special interest to the writer that Governor Thomas 
Prince of Plymouth was one of seven men to buy the fishing rights of the 
colony and assume its onerous debts. Governor Prince was a masterful 
man who may be counted with his associates the first banker of Maine. The 
idea was conceived to spread the use of wampum. Prince and his asso- 
ciates secured its manufacture in large quantities and the use of it was very 
much extended. It became the trading currency through which Prince and 
his friends were able to pay off their obligations and secure a competency 
besides. : The writer now has the court cupboard which Governor Prince 
placed in his parlor, the dining-room of that day, at the governor’s seat, 
“Plain Dealing,” a mile north of the center of Plymouth. This cup- 


240 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


board the governor willed to his widow in 1673. As it was a Plymouth 
manufacture it was probably made by John Alden, or at least under his 
superintendence. It was also undoubtedly paid for by trade with the 
Kennebec Indians, with wampum. The writer feels, therefore, that he 
now has a very tangible, in fact almost monumental reminder of old 
Cushnoc. 

The Pilgrims really had a corner in wampum, in their competition with 
the other fishermen and traders. 

A son-in-law of Governor Bradford, Lieutenant Southworth by name, 
was living at Cushnoc in 1654. 

It was from Cushnoc that other trading posts were established which 
were really more in the nature of outposts. Thus Fort Halifax was built 
opposite what is now Waterville in 1754. In 1752 Fort Richmond had 
long existed, and a trading-house was built there. 

The presence of the Jesuit missionary, Sebastian Resle, at Norridge- 
wock, of course held the Indians at that point in the French interest, and 
barred the advance of the English beyond Fort Halifax. Rasle was a 
gentleman of fine attainments. He was also very faithful to his vows, and 
was thought of by the French as a saint, of whom the English made a 
martyr, with his followers, when they raided his village. 

There were long periods when the frontier wars drove back the settlers, 
and the trading was neglected. The old patent was revived in 1749, a new 
company was organized in Boston, and Fort Shirley was built opposite 
Fort Richmond. A large house still stands in Dresden dating from 1761. 
It was erected as a court-house and tavern within the parade ground of 
the fort. 

Fort Western was built on the advice of Governor Shirley of Massachu- 
setts to overawe the French and Indians. Mr. Dow has very fully and 
with the fascination that marks his style, set these matters forth in a 
pamphlet on Fort Western. The edifice is of the highest interest, not 
only because of its historic associations, but also from its construction of 
hewn logs. It proved an important station for Benedict Arnold and his 


THE ROMANCE OF THE KENNEBEC 241 





SERGEANT LARRABEE’S GARRISON, KENNEBUNK, 1724 


expedition in their abortive attempt on Canada. We suggest that this 
fascinating story be followed up more at length. Aaron Burr, Paul Revere, 
Captain James Howard, and other notable names are connected with this 
fort. | 

Mr. Guy T. Gannett, who was a descendent of the Howard who com- 
manded the fort, has rescued and restored this most important Maine relic, 
and has presented it to the city of Augusta as a memorial to his mother, 
Mrs. Sadie Hill Gannett. 

As this work is a book of pictures, it cannot enter at length into the 
romance of the Kennebec, but very early settlements at Popham and other 
points near the mouth of the river make this stream historically one of the 
most important regions in Maine. It shares with Pemaquid, Castine, and 


Kittery the highest antiquity in our national history. 


242 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


A WONDERFUL OLD EDIFICE 


HE old York jail is unique in Maine from the various interests which 
it stands for. Maine was settled by Church of England people. That 
is, they sent out the settlers, but the latter were by no means selected for 
their religious conviction. We find a good deal of complaint regarding the 
character of the pioneers and fishermen on the Maine coast. No doubt 
they were the same roving, reckless sort common in a later time on our 
western frontiers. York was an aristocratic settlement presided over, as 
was the rest of Maine up to the Penobscot, by the agents of Sir Fernando 
Gorges. The jail was probably needed. We trust that the Maine people 
of this day will not think these remarks a reflection upon their ancestors, 
the solid citizens who came later and settled on the soil. The jail was at 
once the residence of the jailer and the abode of the evil spirits of that time, 
or such of them as had been caught. One may still visit the ancient cells 
and see the slit in the wall through which food was passed. Above, two of 
the rooms are divided by the swinging panel partition, which indicates that 
sometimes the rooms were thrown together to provide scope for the dancers. 
Flow must the prisoners have felt as they heard light, free feet disporting 
themselves overhead. The jail has become the nucleus of old curiosities, 
the outstanding object among them being the wonderful canopied bed, 
shown in a full page of the author’s “ Furniture of the Pilgrim Century.” 
One feels the same sense of antiquity at York as in the oldest Massachu- 
setts communities, 


DWELLINGS AT KITTERY 


B ESIDE the house of Sir William Pepperell, the American general who 

so distinguished himself, we show the hallway of the Sparhawk house. 
A carved sparrow hawk, from which the name of the owner was derived, 
is seen suspended as if in flight. 





Pree PASSA DUM KE AG 





A KENNEBEC ROAD 





A MANCHESTER WOODLAND 





A‘) M:OUU“7AN To DES ER THC O Vik 





AN OXBOW SHORE+~SOMESVILLE, MT. DESERT 





MOOS BH EAD 7LiAK E-—-GREEN VILLE 





ALMOUN TT DESERT DRIVE 


41a. Nat UO WONG 2 ONY Ee, NIDOVOOSOUGNV NW 





THE EMPIRE OF AROOSTOOK 247 


There is in the adjoining room a remarkable fire-place, on either side of 
which, on a bevel, is a shell-top cupboard. The existence of two such cup- 
boards in the same room is the very greatest rarity. At Eliot, which was 
once a part of Kittery, there remain at least two other seventeenth century 
houses with very sharp gables. One of them has been ruined in the 
restoration, but the other is substantially as built, or could be made so. The 
Sarah Orne Jewett place, in one of the Berwicks, seems to have been done 
by the same builder who erected the Wentworth Gardner house in Ports- 
mouth. The sign-board at the street corner, the tall slender trees and the 
sharp roof line together form a very charming effect. 


THE EMPIRE OF AROOSTOOK 


HE size and situation and resources of Aroostook county are such that 
our interest in it is very great. It borders the Dominion for more 
miles than any other county. For a considerable part of that distance 
the boundary is a river. At the point where the St. John joins the 
Woolastaquaguam the elevation is about 750 feet. From this point to the 
state boundary it is 158 miles, and the stream is navigable for its whole 
length in Maine, of course to vessels of moderate size. To this gradual 
fall we owe the prominence of canoeing in Maine. This great county 1s 
most attractive to hunters and fishermen, because large game is still to be 
had. The moose, the king of the forest, of course stands in a class by him- 
self. Bear are not very rare. The fishing is still good. Aroostook grain 
fields are in places extensive, since this is one of the regions in the east 
where grain can still be raised advantageously. The potato, while a very 
important crop, is not the only one, as the ordinary newspaper paragraph 
would lead us to suppose. | 
The generally moderate changes in elevation have favored the construc- 
tion of good roads. Ridges of gravel and sand, so called “ horsebacks,” 
which mark the glacial drift, furnish an inexhaustible store of road material. 


248 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


The county benefits from the military road put through by the nation 
from Bangor to Houlton and completed in 1830. After the boundary dis- 
putes which threatened war were settled in 1842, there was a rapid influx 
of farmers. 

The size of this county is impressed upon us when we find it is surveyed 
into 181 townships. It is, therefore, not without reason that we speak of 
this region as an empire. Whether this beautiful county will soon be 
more highly appreciated we do not know. We do feel certain that efforts 
such as were made by the state many years ago in bringing over Swedes, 
might be rewarded by a large accession to the amount of population. 
Meanwhile the beauty of the streams and orchards is ours to enjoy. 

The county is one of large farms, and strong, self-reliant men. They 
are able to develop their empire, but it will be many years before they can 
utilize all parts of it. 

But before the beautiful aspects of the county can be fully recorded it 
will be necessary to thread its streams and woodland paths for many thou- 
sands of miles. The grandeur and desolation of some of the forests is 
more appealing than any other aspect of Maine. Aroostook is lacking a 
poet, and the same may be said of many other parts of our country. Had 
Scott woven the names of Maine streams and mountains into his novels 
a succession of visitors would have thought the scenery remarkable. Of 
our scenery, like our other possessions, it is true that we wait for the 
glamour of a great name before we are awakened to admire. 


VIEW POINTS IN MAINE 


ANY extensive and entrancing views may be had in Maine. As a 
rule, they are not suitable for pictures, but it seems important to 

record some of them. 
The view of Moosehead Lake, looking either north or south or west 
from Mount Kineo, is perhaps superior to any other large lake view to be 


VIEW POINTS IN MAINE 249 














OLD YORK JAIL 


had anywhere in our country. This is especially true on a day with fine 
clouds. The islands, some merely rocks and others hundreds of acres in 
extent; the countless little bays; the wonderful mountain outlines against 
the sky; the magnificence of clouds reflected on a quiet day in the bay, — 
make up a total aspect of grandeur which leaves little to be desired. 

Views only slightly less attractive are to be had from Squaw Mountain, 
from the Spencer Mountains, and from other elevated points about the 
lake. 

From the top of Mount Katahdin there is a tumbled mass of hills 
stretching away into a dim haze. The water prospects nearby, from this 
elevation, are not so extensive. Chimney Pond, lying almost beneath one, 
gives its basin the appearance of a crater. 

The view from those Maine mountains which are really a part of the 
White Mountain range is often more attractive than New Hampshire 
mountain views. | 

We have mentioned the unrivalled beauty of the scenes both seaward 


250 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


and landward from Mount Megunticook, and the superb view of Kezar 
Pond and the White Mountains as seen from Lovell. 

The outlook from the mountains near Weld is magnificent. 

In the south of the state, Agamenticus gives both sea and mountain views, 
with agricultural valleys in the immediate foreground. 

With the completion of the road to the summit of Green Mountain the 
finest outlook on the coast of Maine will be made convenient. 

About most of the larger lakes like those of Rangeley, Sebago, Grand 
Lake near Princeton and the Belgrade Lakes, there are view-points of 
great interest. In fact, Rangeley and the Belgrade Lakes, viewed from 
the west in the afternoon, are among the most satisfactory visions vouch- 
safed to us mere mortals. 

The most attractive river view we have seen in this country, aside from 
that of the highlands of the Hudson, opens to us as we ascend the 
Penobscot. 

The historically famous view of Casco Bay, already referred to, should 
not lead us to forget various view-points of the harbor of Boothbay, of 
Merrymeeting Bay, and Passamaquoddy Bay. 

It would be too long a story to enumerate the more intimate views ob- 
tained from minor elevations. The hills about the Cobbosseecontee Lake, 
while not very lofty, afford delightful prospects. A beautiful agricultural 
region may be seen from Allen’s Hill in Manchester. 

In the course of this setting forth of pictures there are numerous other 
prospects which are entitled according to their location. 

Among the minor and narrower outlooks we may mention those to be 
had at the Sheepscot River, of Damariscotta River, and of the Saco, both in 
its meadow reaches, and in its bolder course through the hills of Hiram. 

The Pisquataquis River in the county of that name, the Mattawamkeag 
in /iroostook county and Washington county, and Machias River in the 
latter county, all abound in pleasant prospects. 

The finest agricultural districts, being in towns with no great contrast in 
elevation, are of course not notable for picturesqueness. 





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TRUTH AND BEAUTY 259 


In such districts we must be content with a little turn of the brook 
shaded by elms or birches. This is the sort of scenery that is found almost 
everywhere, and is best fitted to soothe the heart of man. It is the near 
and dear and familiar prospect. It is the view to which children are bred, 
like the homely scenes of England. We could find Maine people in any 
one of our states who remember with loyal affection the little brook where 
they played as children. They sat on the roots of an old maple, and 
watched the trout, as large as young whales, scooting from hiding-place to 
hiding-place. The old barway, flanked on the one side by a birch and on 
the other by a pine, and leading to the pasture lane, that was bordered by 
wild-apple trees, is a sweet recollection. In Nebraska, in California, they 
remember those childhood surroundings, beautiful in themselves and more 
beautiful in the soft haze of forty years ago. 

The old apple tree on whose branch they sat to read tales of Indians or 
knights is a better tree than the most stately monarch of the forest. We 
come upon an old farm whose owner returns for summers of longer and 
longer duration. There, with merciful surgery and sustaining braces he 
tries to preserve the old apple tree, as it is perhaps the only living com- 
panion of his boyhood. 


TRUTH AND BEAUTY 


AY what we will of the pitilessness of nature, we do not find that the 
pitiless mood is habitual. Usually she is tender with us, confiding, 

and affectionate. She humors our whims and allows us to rest or play or 
think among the charming seats which she affords. Even the ledges in the 
pastures seem friendly. We hear much of the marble heart. We are not 
so sure that the sermon in stones is a mere poetic figure. Most of the 
soil seems to be disintegrated rock, and the spirit of the lily is a daughter 
of the granite. We insist on our relationship to dear old mother earth. 
Perhaps she understands us better than we know. Certainly she is honest 


260 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


with us. There is an unquenchable and eternal effort in nature to beautify 
everything. More and more ugly forms are passing out, while the more 
graceful shapes establish themselves. Consider the grewsome assemblage 
in the animal world during the early geologic period as compared to the 
gracefulness of the beasts we have today. The vast, shapeless, slimy 
monsters remain only as fossils. Now, if you roam the forests, you see in- 
stead the graceful head and limpid eyes of the deer peering at you through 
the glades. Instead of the flying reptiles we have the phoebe and the robin. 
More and more the coarser forms pass away. Hidden graces take shape 
from the rock and from the most unpromising and inert material, life 
and beauty spring forth to give us a wonderfully attractive world. In this 
sense there is a beauty spot everywhere. Nature is never tame. She never 
bores us. Does she ever lay her colors twice alike in the sky? How many 
forms of clouds are there? Did anyone ever count them all? Is there 
any limit to the possible shapes of orchids or irises?) Whether we coax 
nature along or leave her in her wild state, she always feeds us with new 
suggestions, new form, new colors. Tennyson saw a universe in a single 
flower. By rigorous analysis, all poetry aside, we may find the universe in 
an atom. 

The seeker after truth, when he takes this name, seems to pose as a sort 
of twentieth century knight, and to imply that he has before him a heroic 
and difficult quest. But is not truth nearer than that? Is not the absolute 
integrity of the universe witnessed by the subtle but uniform cohesion of 
particles too small for us to see even with a microscope? Moses did not 
invent the ten commandments, neither did He who walked Galilean fields 
first utter the beatitudes. They spoke in better form what had been uttered 
in a fragmentary way before. They crowned the truth and the beauty — 
which is in the rocks, the soil, the sea, and the sky. They did not recognize 
any discord between the lily and the law. Their effort was to arouse us 
from dullness and to face the facts. There is nothing new either in the 
moral or physical universe. All is mere discovery, emphasis, application, 
and illustration. All is a process, conscious or otherwise, of getting into 














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262 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


harmony with the beauty that is everywhere trying to manifest itself, with 
the music that has always been in the air in a splendid overtone, never 
flattened, never harsh. We go about the world holding a mirror up to 
nature. We discover nothing new, but we are seeing it for the first time and 
therefore, as far as we are concerned, it is a discovery. 


HIDDEN THINGS COMING TO LIGHT 


E may define human progress as a reverential effort to put together 

the hints of things that we do not see. We are engaged almost 
altogether in handling forces which, in their ultimate analysis, are subtle 
and invisible. We have not yet been able to get back to ultimate things. 
Every generation finds another subdivision in what was before supposed to 
be the primary form. This is all a most fascinating occupation. Every 
honest and active man helps. And every living thing helps. The bee does 
his part. His seed-carrying is more important than his honey-gathering. 
The bird does its part. The worms are doing their part. They have 
wrought a chemical change in the soil of the earth. The sunshine creates 
the green that makes vegetation possible. The wind does its work, and 
the seeds have their wings arranged to take advantage of it. The freshets 
carry vegetation across oceans. Salt keeps the world from congealing and 
keeps it sweet. We talk about the living and the dead; but everything 
is alive, throbbing and thrilling, even the particles of the rock. Since there 
is a world of beauty in what we can see, we infer beauty as existent every- 
where. We see it under the microscope and with a telescope. We see it 
forming on the window-pane and in the crystals of the rocks as well as 
blazing from the stars. 

All the ugliness we have so far discovered we have found in the trail of 
men, who, perhaps, thought they were doing a good thing. Our com- 
monest mistake has been our failure to follow the leading of nature as to 
what is beautiful. Hence our unsightly constructions, our poles and wires, 


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SUPERLATIVES 267 


and what not. Gradually it is being found that we can do in a beautiful 
way what we once did in an ugly way. 

The theologian has also been afraid of nature. He thought the devil 
was in it. He has now learned that there is one God in all, and over all, 
and through all. He knows now that all ground is holy ground. He 
knows now that the mightiest gift ever contributed to religious truth is 
the splendid unrolling of evolution. We all know now that the change of 
a letter in some old manuscript need not upset the serenity of those who 
seek the beautiful and the good. | 

The age has done much to lessen the conceit of specialists, each of whom 
used to suppose that his own line was the life-line of the world. We know 
now that no one branch of knowledge, and especially no one person, can 
unveil very much of that eternal truth which is beauty. Thus every great 
poet now respects the toilers in chemistry, and they in turn respect moral 
mysteries. Just so that we honestly try to find out about the truth of 
things, we are all working on the same job. There is nothing little unless 
we choose to make it so. There is nothing big except as we offer it to be 
put in its place as an indispensable part of a symmetrical whole. 

The only real enemy is ignorance, if we spread that term to mean, as it 
fairly does, the selfishness born out of ignorance. 


SUPERLATIVES 


HATEVER is nearest to us, seeming very important, is therefore im- 
portant so far as its influence on us isconcerned. Moralists and others 

have objected to the littleness of men who thought their private matters 
of superlative account. There is, however, a way in which this natural and 
universal tendency may be counted an advantage. If our eyes were so 
made as to show near things small and distant things large, it is a question 
whether we should derive any advantage from obtaining this more correct 
optical view. Since we have to do most with the things that are near it 


268 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


may be better that they look large to us. If we only select from these 
near things those which have an absolute importance, our vision will not 
distort the truth. For instance, an apple blossom hangs over our head. 
We take it into our hand and look critically at the petals. It is as beautiful 
as we can conceive anything to be, and, merely because it is near us, we 
should not, in our broader modern philosophy, think it of small account. 
The blossom is near us so that we may examine it in detail. It is a flowering 
of truth, showing in epitome a kind of essence of the universe. A farmer’s 
wife, having this blossom by her window, really dwells with a superlative 
thing. There are other growths in the little house-garden which, so far 
as we know, are just as exquisite as anything God has made. We need not 
go to Burbank, or to those who cunningly produce hybrids, to obtain any- 
thing more perfect. We are, as a matter of fact, living in a world where 
some things have reached perfection. Certain flowers at their best, a human 
being of the highest type, a summer sky, —all these and many other 
products may be counted the acme and crown of creative effort. We can- 
not ask evolution to do anything more. By the examination of various 
other things that grow, or that men make, it is easy to see that the ideal has 
not been reached. But we ought not to forget the distinction that has been 
achieved in the world up to date. Is it not much to say and more to feel 
that some forms and some colors and some characters are wholly satisfac- 
tory? Among so many things that we have yet to do, human nature takes 
comfort in feeling that some processes of creation are finished. They are 
exquisite. We cannot ask or imagine anything better. It is by dwelling on 
these finished things that we gain courage to improve other things. The 
perfect things are to rest us and lift us and make us capable of going on. 
What courage it ought to give to an artist or a theologian that he can dis- 
cover something with which no fault can be found. This perfection of 
form or function is, of course, seen more generally among elemental things, — 
such as a drop of water or those minuter shapes which must be examined 
microscopically. Thus the snowflake, the petal, and the crystal have reached 
their climax. This achievement ought to be regarded as a prophecy. We 





SUPERLATIVES 269 


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ought to understand that this process is inherent in the scheme of nature. 
We ought also to know that there is in man an impulse, call it what you 
will, that leads toward ideals. There is no more danger of the death of an 
ideal than there is of the death of a crystal. A crystal may melt and an 
ideal may disappear from one mind or from many; but the source of the 
ideal lies in unchanging laws, and it will come into being again. As the 


70 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


clover and the herd’s-grass has spread from America over Europe, the 
forms of flowers are sure to follow. The channels of information in- 
crease. The paths through which perfection is nourished and made what 
it is cannot be permanently clogged. The truly scientific mind is a mind 
full of confidence in the future. The unveiling of what nature is doing 
breeds confidence that she has no notion of quitting work. She is going on. 

We suppose the atom, in a huge, prehistoric lizard, to have been precisely 
like what an atom is today. That is, perfection always existed in the 
primary forms of matter. It is in the combination of these primary forms 
that improvement is going on and the sense of beauty is being developed. 
Obviously, the greater number of combinations required in any finished 
product, the more difficult it is to reach perfection. It is precisely here 
that evolution is working. Perfection of adaptation is a process, and a 
process apparently urged by some immortal impetus. There seems to be a 
Thought behind all. Were it not so, there is no reason why horrific 
creatures, like magnified beetles, should not have the intelligence of man. 
In the scheme of things, the finest intelligence occurs with the best forms. 
The fly is kept down while the eagle becomes large. Even in small things, 
the process of transformation into beauty is going on. In all large things 
in the vegetable world, and mostly in the animal world, the shapes that 
now exist are beautiful. 

There are those who fear that perfect forms cannot be permanently 
kept, since they see how apparently difficult and long is the process by 
which they have been brought into being. But we should not forget that 
the impetus which brought forth these forms is in no degree lessened. 
Every successful combination seems to make more feasible still better com- 
binations. We believe in the Thought and the Power that is bringing this _ 
about. The apparent immortality of subtle forces, such as we discover in 
radium, ought to make it easy for us to understand that this radio-activity 
is not an exceptional case. Everywhere are agencies of all sorts, immortal 
in their tendencies. That is to say, matter has a tendency which seems to 
be a part of itself. You cannot imagine matter without its attractions and 


SUPERLATIVES 271 




















GARRISON-HOUSE AT YORK, BUILT ABOUT 1645 


repulsions. If gravity and cohesion and the various chemical affinities are 
discovered anywhere, it is always in connection with forms of matter, just 
as character is a part of a man. That 1s to say, we cannot separate matter 
from its tendencies or its passions, if you so choose to name them. It 1s 
because we can depend upon these steady aims or purposes in atoms and 
molecules that we see hope for a world of ultimate beauty. Somehow, 
everybody believes in matter. It is a basis of faith on which all men can 
get together. But the features of matter which impel it this way and that, 
that blend two particles or three as one, that make gold and air and 
diamond, these features may be thought of as the soul of matter. Its 
affinities cannot be separated from it. This is the most hopeful thing in 
our day. It means that whatever has produced the highest success, what- 
ever has made possible a Plato, is an urge that never ceases. It means 
that if civilization goes down it will go up again. It means that the most 
beautiful imaginings of a Greek artist will be surpassed. It is idle to pre- 
sume that since we have waited a long time we must wait always for this 
thing to happen. If beauty is in the soul of matter, and is struggling to 
express itself, the result is certain. The common phrase that what goes 


272. MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


up must come down, is borne out of pessimism, and is unscientific. The 
fear of death and disintegration is not borne out by the eternal impulses 
in matter. Creations continue, and must continue. Beauty rises higher 
after every destruction. 

We have no fears for the ultimate future. If Maine is now a shore 
fitted to enthrall our imagination and delight our senses, the fact is merely 
a proof that the yearning, if we may so call it, in matter and man, rests on 
ultimate things. It is a proof that forms of grandeur of a nobler sort 
must in every age continue to develop, and the appreciation of man must 
continue in a similar development. . 

Wells, in his Outline, can see no progress except in a fidelity, growing in 
man, to the truth. This, at last, is religion. It is also, science. Make the 
most of it. 


THE FUTURE OF MAINE 


AINE, considered as a national asset, is not occupying the position 
which its scenery, its size, and its resources deserve. Settled first 

and admired most by the discoverers, it is being developed last. Some 
Maine people consider the state to be of importance for two things only, 
in a permanent way. These are its water powers and its tourist attractions. 
We are far from agreeing with this judgment. We believe that Maine 
as a source of building material, aside from its forests, must count very 
heavily in the future. Further, we think that in time its agricultural re- 
sources must prove of great value. It will not always be true, as it is now, 


that farming is the last resort. The extent and variety of Maine’s soil 
will not permit it to be ignored. The lumber resources of this state will — 


of course in time be subordinated to its other features, but by conservation 
those resources will always be a large asset. 

The attractions of Maine as a residence must eventually appeal to many 
millions of Americans, as well as to persons of other lands. This remark 


holds true not only of the summer months. In these days almost every 
one has a vacation. The people of Maine, by taking their vacations in the 


THE FUTURE OF MAINE 273 





HIGH STREET, WISCASSET 


winter and going south, will be far better off than those who live most of 
the year in the south, and can get only a month or two in Maine. The 
Maine winter is not disagreeable before the month of February, and even 
then there are many who enjoy it, so much so that more and more Maine 1s 
being visited in the winter by guests who want to know what a real winter 
is. Those who have the leisure and the means to make a southern journey 
for a month or so in the winter will find Maine a climate more attractive 
in some particulars than any other that we know. The coast of Maine is 
the only section of the entire Americas except western Washington that 1s 
comfortably cool in the summer. The fog which often visits the coast in 
this season is a great joy to persons who have escaped the welter of the 
cities. It always tempers and cools the air, affording the humidity without 
heat which is a natural craving in the summer. Every foggy day is a joy 
and most bright days are breezy. 


274 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


COMMENT ON LINE DRAWINGS 


N order to enrich this volume as much as possible, we have added 

thirty-two sketches in the text pages. 

Sir William Pepperell (house p. 28) commanded Maine troops at the 
siege and capture of Louisburg from the French in 1745, on June 15, a 
notable date for Maine since the state — or Dominion of Maine as it was 
then — was never afterwards seriously hindered in its development east- 
wards. | 

It is hard to remember that the English were for one hundred fifty years 
either actively or dormantly hostile to the French in America, and that 
it was long doubtful whether the English civilization would prevail. From 
the Penobscot eastward the country was generally held by the French, and 
the region from Maine to the Penobscot was debatable land. The Indians 
of this district suffered so much, whichever side they favored, that between 
war and pestilence most of them were either destroyed or discouraged, and 
migrated to the St. Lawrence. There, congenial to the French, they were 
more at ease though they found a climate still more rigorous than that they 
had left. 

The few remaining Indians of Maine, gathered just above Bangor 
and on Passamaquoddy Bay, are wards of the state. Their ancestors were 
outrageously treated. They themselves are with difficulty being brought 
to understand the independent spirit of America. Visits to their homes are | 
glimpses to a life very interesting to us of the twentieth century. 

In the Longfellow house, in the center of Portland, the public possesses 
a very delightful monument (p. 29), since it was here that from infancy 
he grew, though born and living for a few months in another Portland 
house. Between this public memorial in Portland and the Longfellow 
house in Cambridge, eventually to come into the hands of the public, or 
trustees for the public, the nation will have very great and rich memorials 
of the beloved poet. The Portland house being of brick will be easier to 





OF THE WHITE LADIES—DAMARISCOTTA 


THE BATH 





BANKS OF THE CARRABASSET—KINGFIELD 


stad 








OXFORD COUNTY WATERSIDES 








ISLAND 


TWIN SENTINELS——GERRISH 


THE SUGAR CAMP 











SOME OF THE PICTURES IN DETAIL 279 


protect from fire, and with care may become a possession for many genera- 
tions. 

The Campus of Bowdoin College (p. 41) is shown in another of our 
pictures (p. 144). Although Maine had no separate early existence, many 
of her institutions are very old, and Bowdoin has all the storied flavor of 
an ancient seat of learning — the most delightful of human retreats. 

The old name for York was Agamenticus, still retained by the lofty hill 
behind the town —the landmark of southern Maine, and the stream that 
flows hard by. We presume this cut from Drake is taken from a painting. 

We are very pleased to examine it, since it faithfully represents the 
architecture and customs of that period. York just escaped being much 
more important than it is. Only its location prevented the choice of it as 
the capital, and for long it was the most important place in the state. The 
sort of dwelling shown in the distance on the left is very rare nowadays, 
so much so that many traveled Americans have never seen a specimen. 
Probably many hundreds of such seventeenth century houses have been 
torn down. Ina generation those that remain will be very highly cherished. 

The York garrison (p. 271), represents the second period of architecture 
such as still exists, especially in Connecticut. 

The Tristram Perkins house was a Kennebunkport landmark, and is most 
pleasing from its fine lean-to. It is dwellings like this that give character 
toatown. The fashion is happily revived and could scarcely be bettered. 


SOME OF THE PICTURES IN DETAIL 
OUNDING the Cliff” (p. 11) is one of the most charming spots we 


have found in Maine. It is admirably adapted in its immediate sur- 
roundings and its accessibility for a summer home, and if a residence 
here were continued for ten months in a year each of those months would 
have its special attraction. The spot is a little removed from the highway, 


perhaps forty rods, and it was, we presume, the site of an ancient dam which 


280 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


has almost entirely disappeared. There is a fine, bold vertical stratum of 
rock on the left, of warm, rich, brown color. The outlook in three direc- 
tions 1s excellent. No lovelier water-view, no better foundation, no region 
more inviting for wood-paths comes now to our recollection. There are no 
dwellings near this spot. 

A quaint old bridge at New Vineyard, a spreading stream, and a sub- 
stantial, rambling old dwelling make up a composition very satisfactory to 
the eye and the heart. We would say that the spot was susceptible of being 
beautified to a very great degree (p. 159). 

In “ Danville Banks” (p. 37) we find a surprisingly pretty shore, just 
out of Lewiston and Auburn and on the Poland road. This region has not 
been thought of as one of particular attraction. The shore, however, is as ° 
good as one could wish. 

“‘ A Maine Coast Sky ” (p. 47) is a happy combination got by the author 
many years ago, it being one of the few pictures that are not new. The 
curdled sky is always wonderful, as it often suggests outspread wings. 
The attractions of the sky in Maine are often greater than those of the 
landscapes, in the east. When both are good the heart of man can ask 
little more. 

In “A Woolwich Homestead” (p. 49) is a type of the earliest sub- 
stantial houses in Maine. A well-sweep still appears. Woolwich was 
settled almost among the first towns of the state. It was a very extensive 
town, and counted as a unit with Bath. At the mouth of one of the two 
principal Maine rivers it was close to the accessible highways of that period. 
On both banks of the Kennebec from its mouth up for a score or so of miles 
are found a good number of early dwellings and good farms. The river 
was the only road at the time. It is highly delightful in these days of 
flying machines to discover that the Pilgrim Colony arranged for an ex- 
press shallop, to make the run from Cushnoc, now Augusta, passing all the 
shore towns, to Falmouth, or what is now practically speaking, Portland, 
in twenty-four hours. This was fast going at that time. The Pilgrims had 
good muscle as well as good consciences. They were not anaemic religion- 


SOME OF THE PICTURES IN DETAIL 281 







































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ists. Like all men who have a living to make they became sturdy, and 
like all men who establish trade relations intended to continue, they were 
fair dealers. There is no finer district either for agriculture, climate, a 
choice of water-routes, and attractive scenery than that at the mouth of 
the Kennebec. This has been learned by those who have developed Squirrel 
Island, Popham Beach and the other attractive sea resorts hereabouts. 

In the “ Old Dennett House” (p. 58) we have a delightful reminder 
of the seventeenth century. In that time Eliot was a part of Kittery. The 
entire district around the mouth of the Piscataqua River was settled first 
after Plymouth in New England. Kittery at that time was called 
Piscataqua. Almost in the same year Kittery, York, the Berwicks, Ports- 
mouth, and Dover, were taken up by our ancestors. The district of Kittery 


282 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


was most wisely chosen as the site of a navy yard, it being one of the best 
harbors in existence. Incidentally, the estuary of the Piscataqua is a region 
of wonderful attractions to the eye. This ancient house has the roof line 
of that time. It is most happy in a noble tree placed properly as a com- 
panion. The drive that we see is the private entrance, so that the old 
dwelling stands well back from the main street. 

We can by no means attempt to describe all the excursions we have en- 
joyed in Maine. On the shore we think nothing could be finer than the 
grand cliffs and the salt spume from the breakers. In the back reaches 
behind the islands we believe ourselves to have found something even 
better, in the winding shores, the perfect cones of the spruce, and in the 
miniature harbors beside each one of which we picture a perfect home site. 
In the interior of the state near a cascade on one of the subordinate streams, 
rather than by the roar of a great river fall, we then think we have reached 
an even better location, as a stimulus to the imagination, a constant chal- 
lenge to activity. When at last we reach the splendid slopes of the loftier 
elevations in the state, and look out over valleys covered by farms and 
threaded by silver streams, here and there issuing from mirrored lakes, we 
exclaim that here is the best in Maine. 

Thus it is that what has sometimes been thought a defect of human nature 
greatly adds to the joy of living. It is a fortunate circumstance that the 
scene before us seems always to be the best. We can always find some- 
thing in it of peculiar merit. There is an inexhaustible quality in any land- 
scape. Certain groups of trees, certain curves of the hills and of the shores, 
certain windings of the road or settings of the cottages, disclose themselves 
to us from day to day with added charm. It is this capacity for seeing 
attractions already existing that suggests the capacity for attractions which 
may be added about the old homestead. The person who loves an old 
home will often look at it with the view to adding a drive here, a cluster of 
trees there, a field wall, or some landscape feature that will still further 
enhance the pleasures of home life. The dwelling itself also may be made 
more solid or better able to resist the storms. Thus the joy of seeing and 


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SOME OF THE PICTURES IN DETAIL 291 


planning must enter into every consideration when one has or seeks a home 
in the country. 

There is probably no pleasure in life, aside from moral aspects, that can 
equal the pleasure of developing a home in the country. The joy consists 
not altogether in directing the work of others. The fullness of delight 
will not come to any man until he takes in his own hand a trowel and lays 
the foundation stones. Unless we know the feel of a spade and a hammer 
we shall never fully enjoy handling a pen or a brush. To see one’s own 
thoughts arise in stone or brick, to see the approaches taking form as they 
did in our dreams, and to observe the increasing grace of the curves of elm 
and birch and balm of Gilead, as those trees increasingly decorate the home 
acres, these are joys worth the participation of the greatest minds. To 
arrange one’s own garden and to train the vines against the wall, and to 
prune the fruit trees at the back door, to follow at least occasionally behind 
the plow and to see the sod reversed in a long graceful curve, this is a 
necessity to a man who would really understand his relation to the natural 
world. By such participation with the materials of the earth he enlarges 
his range of thought. He mutiplies his points of contact, and becomes a 
more real human being. If he adds to or crowns these occupations by 
founding a family to grow up in the country, he has then become a complete 
man so far as our limitations will permit. 

He provides himself with baskets and lunches and takes his family or 
friends up to the mountain for a day of berry picking. He goes to the 
river, and with a chosen companion paddles around its curves, or rests in 
its eddies, or floats on the little lake. Fishing for a while, chatting for a 
while, watching the clouds and the hill contours for a while, he returns in 
the quiet of the evening to the old home. Days occupied in the orchard 
or the woods, where old paths lead, he joys in the fellowship of silence 
and the forest denizens. It is a good world. Even in the old cemetery, 
where the shadows play across his ancestors? graves, he is not too sad. He 
admits the mysteries in life, he meets its pains and sorrows like a man, and 
all in retrospect blends in one picture. He cannot change it so far as it 


292 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


isdrawn. But he is hopeful that what he has done has not too much marred 
the symmetry of the whole. He is confident that other generations will 
go forward with a surer brush. Life is good. It may be rich. It cannot 
be disastrous, if we move along steadily, as we can. 

The most beautiful thing on earth is a countryside developed and dwelt 
in by a kindly, honorable, diligent people. A good neighbor means more in 
the country than elsewhere. Character shines with a more pleasing luster 
inthe country. There, four or five roads leading here and there in a neigh- 
borhood and occupied by dwellings each with its own bass-wood or pine or 
pear trees, furnish forth a neighborhood adequate for all human events. It 
is a sufficient scene for Mrs. Wilkins. A well developed neighborhood of 
this sort supplies the reaction of man to nature so that each appears to the 
best advantage. We find it difficult to separate Washington from Mt. 
Vernon. Because the English could not separate him from his home acres 
they said he was only a country squire. That country squire foundation 
enabled him to be Washington. The same foundation gave us a Hampden. 
Putman came up from such a neighborhood, and Cooper, and how many 
more! But it is not necessary that one’s name should appear in any history 
to establish proof of a successful life. Much that is bitter has been written 
regarding the inscriptions on grave-stones. No doubt those who carve the 
stones desire to say something kind. Why should it be otherwise? Are 
we heartless enough to look for a critical comment on a grave-stone? Why 
has not some one complained that the patience and the toil and the hopeful- 
ness of those who rest in the country churchyard are not more fully re- 
corded above them? Count the stones which they picked, if you can, and 
the wall which they builded. See their monuments in the solid dams and 
the barn foundations. See them in the rows of maples and elms and in 
the old orchards. See them in the eyes of their children of the fourth 
and fifth generation, those children who have become the leaders in the 
mighty work of modern America. We reverence any man who has worked 
long and faithfully, who has believed in his home acres, who has lived with 
his wife and loved her always, who has brought up children to believe in 





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293 


294 MAINE BEAUTIFUL 


honor and diligence. He who has done this is better than a genius because 
he has been the strength of human society. However America may be 
living today, it rests on a foundation of men who told the truth and 
ploughed the soil and fought the storms and fell fighting in their tracks. 
We would trust a calloused hand, with somewhat gnarled fingers, much 
more readily than the man’s hand that has just come from a manicure. The 
state is built on truth and muscle and hope, not on compliments and 
cosmetics. . 

At last only that natural beauty is attractive which can be enjoyed by 
decent people. Those who are not building up the country can neither 
fully enjoy its scenery, nor have they a right to do so. There cannot pos- 
sibly be a full response in their natures to the finer and stronger elements 
of a landscape. Something of the rock, something of the mountain, some- 
thing of the fullness of the lake waters, must enter into the nature of the 
man or he cannot see and feel these things properly. He therefore finds 
when he goes away for the summer his chief enjoyment in the skulking 
rooms of hotels, in the underworld which supplies his appetites by scoffing 
the law. No country place is good to him that is without a green table or a 
red liquid or purple morals. We have heard and seen so much of “ going 
into the country ” from those whose only purpose is to make a slimy trail 
that we turn with joy to the finer and more real things. Life in its larger 
riches is found under the oak and by the fireside, in the sweet intercourse 
with sane persons who know how to rest because they know how to work. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


E are indebted to the Maine Publicity Association for the surf scene 
with the four-masted schooner and the lighthouse (p. 14). 
The anemone cave on Ocean Drive, Bar Harbor (p. 193) is supplied by 
the Maine Publicity Association. A picture of seagulls (p. 14) from the 
same source was from McDougall & Keefe, Boothbay Harbor. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 295 


The ski jumper shows Victor Mortenson of the Nansen Ski Club making 
a leap of seventy-six feet, (p. 36). 

The attractive picture of a lonely sail (p. 70) is in Casco Bay. It is sup- 
plied by the Publicity Association. 

A harbor view of Eastport, called “ The Tow” (p. 194), shows the 
lines of smacks being taken out to sea. 

Eagle Lake, at Lafayette National Park, supplied like the above by the 
Maine Publicity Association, shows the source of the water supply of Bar 
Harbor, and the mountains are Pemetic, the Bubbles and Sargent (p. 288). 
The gentlemen fishing are on Stony Creek, near South Paris, Maine, 
(p. 194). Gathering Sap (p. 18), the little wood hut where sap is boiled 
(p. 278), and Going with Daddy (p. 36), are supplied from the same 


source. 

We presume that Winter Sports (p. 68) is at Damariscotta. A similar 
picture was made there by Lindsay, of Newcastle. 

“For the Open Sea” (p. 24) is also a gift from McDougall & Keefe, 
Boothbay Harbor. 

Labbie’s Studio, of Wiscasset and Bar Harbor, has also supplied two 
marines, (pp. 165 and 172). 

Of the line drawings, The Pemaquid Block House is by Lindsay, of 
Newcastle. The Fort Western Plan and sketch are supplied by Wm. H. 
Gannett, a descendent of Capt. Winslow, the commander of the old fort. 
The Capitol is supplied by the Maine Publicity Association; Larrabee’s Gar- 
rison and the York Garrison House are from Abbott’s “ History of Maine,” 
the York Jail sketch was supplied by that museum, and the Lord Mayor’s 
Procession and the Tristam Perkins House are from the volume by Drake, 
the “ Pine Tree Coast.” The sketches of Drake Island at Great Chebeague 
are by Mr. C. N. Sladen, of Newtonville. The other nineteen are from 
photographs by the author. 

In general, the pictures are by the author, and most of them have been 
made in this very year of grace, so that they now appear for the first time. 


MAINE 
By Mitprep Hosss 


Bloom-arbored, hundred-harbored, 
Glorious state of Maine, 
All the joys of nature lie 


In your domain. 


Pine-sheltered, ocean-weltered, 
Rocky, rugged coast, 

Calling all with out-flung arms— 
An eager host! 


Lake-dreaming, river-streaming 
Land of rod and reel! 

Bass and trout and salmon pools 
Your depths conceal! 


Shooting rapids in a bark 

W hich nothing daunts, 

To deer-leaping, cat-creeping, 
Shadowed forest haunts! 


Star-brushing, spirit-hushing, 
Lichen-covered peaks, 

From your soverign heights a voice 
Eternal speaks. 


Vagrant longings call us back 

To you again, 

O bloom-arbored, hundred-harbored, 
Dear old state of Maine! 


296 


INDEX 


Abbott, J. S. C., “ History of Maine,” 230. 

Advancing Seas, 15. 

Agamenticus (old name of York), 250, 279. 

Air, purity of, 217. 

Alden, John, 240. 

Allagash, 97, 170, 236. 

Allen’s Hill, 182, 250. 

PVifia; F305, 132,144,149, 052, 264. 

Androscoggin, 19, 39, 59) 136, 224, 225, 246, 
276. 

Anemone Cave, 193, 294. 

Apple blossoms, 35, 38, 44, 45, 46, 67, 76, 
78, 80, 81, 82, 86, 89, 99, 102, 108, 109, 
111, 113, 114, 120, 122, 146, 154, 164, 
165, 173) 175) 177-179) 189) 193, 243, 
264, 289. 

Apples, 21, 195. 

Approaches, land. See Land approaches. 

Approaches to Maine, 9, 21. 

Arnold, Benedict, 241. 

Aroostook, 27, 30, 62, 147) 223, 233) 247) 250. 

Artists, 32, 183. 

Atmosphere, 183. 

Auburn, 137, 280. 

Augusta, 19, 27, 91, 137, 148, 
280. See also Cushnock. 

Automobile, The, 53. 

Autumn at Bethel, 266. 


149, 179) 


Back Door Blossoms, 87. 


Bangor, 19, 22, 27, 62, 64, 130, 149, 223, 
248. 

Bar Harbor, 22..53,1164, .6%;) 69,5157, 04.723 
294. 


Barn, Old, 82. 

Basswood, 123. 

Bath, 19, 22, 59, 60, 79, 107, 170, 280. 
Beaches, like those in Florida, 51. 
Bear, 247. 

Beauties of Maine, 228. 
Beautifying the home, 195. 
Beauty and Evolution, 267. 
Beech, 123. 

Beecher, Henry Ward, 94. 
Belfast, 19, 76, 143, 147) 170. 
Belgrade, 179, 193, 250, 253. 
Bethel, 136, 174, 266, 287. 
Biddeford, 52, 133. 

Biddeford Pool, 52. 


297 


Birches, 16, 37, 60, 76, 77) 79) 81, 90, 107, 
109, I10, 122, 123, 146, 188, 214, 220, 
222, 224,220,253, 204, 260, 275-2955 
287. 

Blackberry, 124. 

Blaine, 149. 

Block Houses, 44, 57, 60, 62, 149. 

Blossoms, Wild Cherry, 191. 

Blue Hill, 179, 255. 

Boat Under the Bough, 113. 

Booms, log, 96. 

Boothbay, 19, 46, 61, 101, 111, 150, 154, 
TO1,.250. 

Boston, 9, 22, 53. 

Bowdoin College, 41, 59, 144, 279. 

Bradbury, 149. 

Bradford, 54. 

Bradford, Governor, 239. 

Bridgton, 147, 168. 

Brooks, See Streams. 

Brunswick, 22, 27, 54, 144, 168, 279. 

Bucksport, 19, 62, 64, 73, 170. 

Building material, 33. 


_ Burgess, Thornton, 96. 


Calais, 19, 65, 147, 168. 

Calcutta, 20. 

Camden, 19, 24, 28, 60, 61, 67, 69, 72, 75) 
84, 90, 100, 109, 110, 112, 128, 134, 
1405 145, (1790) E715, £58, 0255u0 mee 
Rockport. 

Camping, 96. 

Campobello, 65. 

Canada, 60. 

Canoeing, 92. 

Cape Elizabeth, 15, 26, 52, 182. 

Capitol, 148. 

Carrabasset, 157, 276. 

Caribou, 147. 

Cascades, 102, 121, 162, 163, 263. 

Casco Bay, 49, 333) 52> 53) 1&2), 1925230. 

Castine, 19, 61, 62, 170. 

Cathedral Rock, 84. 

Cattle, 233. 

Cherry, 124, 128. 

Cherryfield, 65. 

Children, 219, 259. 

China Pond, 182. 

Churches, 167. 


298 


Cities, 148. 

Cliffs, 52, 258. 

Clouds, 47, 280. 

Coast and Geodetic Survey, 31, 32. 

Coast of Maine, 20, 22, 32) 51, 54) 59) 182. 

Coast dwellers, 20. 

Coasting, 129. 

Cobbosseecontee, (stream and lake), otherwise 
Winthrop Pond, 149, 252. 

Coombs’ Mills, Augusta, gtr. 

Cooper, 95. 

Cornish, 137. 

Cottages, 88, 131, 145, 152, 177, 185, 189, 
288. 

Country, influence of the, 228, 291, 292. 

Country life, superiority of, 217, 291. 

Coves, 59. ; 

Cow Island, 52. 

Crescent Surf, 52. 

Crystal Cove, 88. 

Cumberland County, 47, 98. 

Cushing Island, 53. 


Cushnock, 239, 240, 280. See also Augusta. 


Daisies, 199, 231. 

Damariscotta, 19, 28, 48, 60, 68, 123, 147, 
163; .270,'2:50,)265,0277. 

Dandelion, 139. 

Danville, 37, 120, 280. 

Dennett House, Eliot, 58; 281. 

Dennysville, 255. 

Development, 60. 

Dixfield, 59. 

Dodge Pond, 283. 

Dow, George Francis, 148, 239. 

Drake, “‘ The Pine Tree Coast,” 295. 

Drawings, 274. 

Dresden, 38, 60, 80, 87, 102, 108, 114, 123, 
132, 147, 175, 178. 

Drinkwater Point, 59. 

Duck Trap Brook, 175. 

Dwellings, old, 60, 206. 

Dwellings, summer, 54. 


Eagle Lakes, 147, 288, 295. 

Early settlers, 54, 60, 228. 

Eastport, 19, 33, 64, 65, 147, 168, 194. 

Edgecomb, 165. 

Elderberry, 124. 

Eliot, 58, 247, 281. 

Ellsworth, 64, 168, 263. 

Elm, Feathered, 255. 

Elms, 88, 100, 114, 123) 173) 174) 211, 225, 
227 1265) 

Endless Battle, The, 23. 

Evolution, 260. 

Explanatory, 3. 


INDEX 


Falmouth, 53, 280. 

Farm, A Maine Shore, 187. 

Farm Buildings, 204. 

Far Drives, 795 232 

Farm lands, 22, 97, 130. 

Farmers’? Wives, 180. 

Farmhouse, The, 158. 

Farmington, 136. 

Farms, Abandoned, 203. 

Farms, modern, 216. 

Ferns, 114. 

Fiords, 72, 73. 

Fir tree, 104. 

Fire protection, 217. 

Fires, forest, 105. 

Fisheries, 235, 238, 247. 

Fishermen, 194. 

Fog, advantage of, 273. 

Food supphes, 21. 

Forest pictures, 16, 18, 25, 43) 45) 50) 57- 

Forests, 8, 21, 105, 233) 243, 284. 

Fort Fairfax, 149. 

Fort Fairfield, 147. 

Fort Halifax, 240. 

Fort Kent, 147, 170. 

Fort Pemaquid, 62. 

Fort Richmond, 240. 

Fort Shirley, 240. 

Fort Western, 239, 240. 

Fox Islands, 230. 

Foxcroft-Dover, 136. 

Freeport, 59. 

From Kittery to Portland, 51. 

Fryeburg, 43, 45, 50, 51, 55) 56, 57, 82, 
136, 152, 164, 177, 187. 

Fryeburg Waters, 43, 185. 

Furniture of the Pilgrim Century, 242. 


Gannett, Guy T., 241. 

Gannett, Mrs. Sadie Hill, 241. 
Gannett, William H., 148. 

Gardiner, 149. 

Gerrish Island, 51, 278. 

Gilbert, Captain, 239. 

Goat Island, 52. 

Gorges, Sir Fernando, 242. 

Gossip, agreeableness of, 180. 

Grand Lake, 147, 170, 250. 

Grand Menan, 39. 

Granite, 20, 21, 134. 

Gray, 49, 88, 109, 114. 

Green Mountain, 66, 84, 231, 250. 
Greenville, 66, 128, 157, 219, 232, 245, 256. 
Guide books, not supported, 32. 
Guides, 94, 98. 

Guilford, 136. 


INDEX 


Hackmatack, 116. 

Hallowell, 77, 124, 148, 284. 

Hancock, 265. 

Harbor towns, 20. 

Harbors, 19, 20. 

Harpswell, 59. 

Headlands, 59. 

Hedgerow, 78, 132, 178. 

Hemlock, 104, 116. 

Hidden things, coming to light, 262. 

Hill Blooms, 138. 

Hiram, 250. 

History, 54. 

Hobb, Ebenezer, 92. 

Hobbs, Mildred, poems by, 10, 34, 74, 83, 
86, 106, 118, 135, 138, 150, 162, 186, 
218, 227, 295. 

Homesteads, 49. 

Honeymoon Retreat, A, 80. 

Horse Chestnut, 111. 

Hosmer Lake, 285. 

Hotels, Metropolitan, 157-158. 

Houlton, 248. 

Howard, Capt. James, 241. 

Hugo, Victor, 41. 


Immigration, 130, 198. 
Impassable Barriers, 17. 
Indians, 274. 

Island towns, 20. 
Islands, 53, 54. 

Isles of Shoals, 200. 


Jackman, 179. 
Jefferson, 141. 

Jewett, Sarah Orne, 247. 
Jonesboro, 65. 

Juniper, 89. 


Katahdin, 30, 31, 66, 166, 170, 182, 249. 

Kennebec County, 98, 243. 

Kennebec River, 19, 39, 59, 60, 77, 83, 238, 
280. 

Kennebunk, 230. 

Kennebunkport, 51, 52, 279. 

Kezar Lake, 136, 250. 

Mineo, MC) 66, 71, °1§7,/ 290. 

Kingfield, 157, 276. 

Kittery, 22, 23, 51; navy yard, 51, 239. 


Labbie’s Studio, 295. 

Lafayette National Park, 84, 288, 295. See 
Mt. Desert. 

Lakes, 7, 71, 72, 106, 113, 114, 136, 137, 1475 
149) 171, 200, 202, 234, 235) 237) 249) 
nO. 

Lamb, the pet, 263. 

Land approaches to Maine, 22. 


299 


Landscape characteristics, 282. 
Larch, See Hackmatack. 
Lewiston, 137, 280. 

Lime, 33. 

Lincoln County, 289. 
Lincolnville, 61, 123, 140. 
Lisbon, 80, 141. 

Little Maine River, A, 57. 
Locusts, 124. 

London, 20. 


_ Longfellow House, 274. 


Looking Seaward, 35, 185. 
Lovell, 72, 82, 88, 250. 
Lovell’s Pond, 136. 


Machias, 64, 65, 250, 258. 

Madison, 168. 

Maiden’s Cliff, 73, 75. 

Maine, a national playground, 21. 

Maine: A Poem, 295. 

Maine, approaches to, g. 

Maine, extent of, 7. 

Maine, time of settlement, 7, 

Maine, variety of, 9. 

Maine Coast Sky, A, 47. 

Maine Publicity Bureau, 3, 129, 294, 295. 

Maine seamen, 20. 

Maine shore, 51. 

Manchester, 89, 158, 243, 250, 253. 

Maple, 123. 

Maple sugar making, 18, 130, 278. 

Maps, 31. 

Maranacook, 145. 

Marines, 12, 18, 23, 24, 26, 38, 44, 46, 47, 69, 
70, 76, 165, 172, 176, 192-194, 258, 
286. 

Marsh Bay, 73. 

Massachusetts, 9. 

Mattawamkeag, 170, 250. 

May by the Wayside, 173. 

Meddybemps Lake, 72, 234. 

Medford, 170. 

Megunticook, 73, 74, 75, 112) 171. 

Merrymeeting Bay, 19, 59, 250. 

Middle Maine Birches, 16. 

Milford, 232. 

Millbridge, 65. 

Millinocket, 62, 66, 170. 

Mills, Old, gt. 

Mingo Point, 220, 257. 

Monhegan, 235. 

Monmouth, 126, 189, 190. 

Monson, 158. 

Moose, 247. 

Moosehead, 30, 66, 71, 104, 157, 168, 170, 
245) 249, 290. 

Mosquito fleet, 53. 


300 


Moss, 212. 

Motor boat, The, 53. 

Mt. Abraham, 137. 

Mt. Blue, 137. 

Mt. Desert, 19, 32, 51, 64, 72) 84, 193, 199) 
223) 231) 244, 245, 256, 258, 285, 286, 
288. 

Mt. Tom, 187. 

Mountains, 7, 64, 66, 71, 73, 84, 109, 112, 
137) 145, 187, 249. 


Names, Indian, 155. 

Names, of Islands, 52. 

Naples, 147, 168. 

National Asset, A, 157. 

Nature, and religion inseparable, 270. 

Nature study, 228. 

New Gloucester, 110. 

New Hampshire, 7, 66. 

Newport, 137, 188, 202, 234. 

New Vineyard, 16, 123, 159, 280. 

New York, 20, 220. 

Norridgewock, 156, 240. 

North Anson, 168. 

North Berwick, 92. 

North Edgecomb, 28, 35, 44, 57, 60, 62, 139, 
173. 

Northmen, in Maine, 228. 

Norumbega, 230. 

Nutting, Albion, zeifdians ry 


Oakland, 149. 

Oaks, 101, 123, 185. 

Ocean. See Marines. 

Ogunquit, 51, 52. 

Old Back Door, The, 86. 

Old clipper days, 20, 60. 

Old Dennett House, 58. 

Old Orchard, 39, 52. 

Old River, 55. 

Old River Curve, An, 50. 

Oldtown, 149. 

Onawa, 158. 

Open Sea, For The, 24. 

Orchard Cottage, The, 153. 

Orchards, 60, 79, 89, 126. 
soms. 

Orono, 149. 

Orr’s Island, 59. 

Outline of physical Maine, 21. 

Ovens, The, 84, 193. 

Oxen, 176. 

Oxford County, 28, 68, 98, 146, 277, 287. 


See Apple Blos- 


Painted Pool, The, 10. 


Paris, 157, 194, 295. 
Parkman, 95, 148. 


INDEX 


Parsonage, A Country, 89, 197. 

Passadumkeag, The, 243. 

Passamaquoddy Bay, 19, 65, 250, 274. 

Path on the Saco, A, 153. 

Patten Brook, 211. 

Pemaquid, 9, 60, 62, 207. 

Peninsula towns, 20. 

Penobscot, 39, 61, 62, 66, 73, 84, 96, 98, 104, 
230, 250. 

Penobscot Bay, 19, 235. 

People of Maine, 158. 

Pepperell, Sir William, 28, 274. 

Perfection, 268. 

Perkins, Tristram, House, 279, 293. 

Phillips, 137. 

Pictorical scenes, not exhausted, 29, 32. 

Pictures in detail, 279. 

Pig Island, 52. 

Pine trees, 20, 88, 89, 90, 99, 103, 196, 233. 

Piscataquis County, 98, 148. 

Pitcher Pond, 143. 

Pittsheld, 254, 265. 

Pittston, 60. 

Pleasant River (outlet, Sebago Lake), 252. 

Ploughing, A Maine, 176. 

Plymouth, 9, 54, 148, 239. 

Poland, 25; §9; 133, 157, 168, 284. 

Poland Shade, 118, 119. 

Popham, 83, 241. 

Poplar, 116. 

Portland, 14, 19, 22, 27, §%5°.$23).$43; 0m 
170, 274. 

Portland Harbor, 53. 

Portland Head light, 52. 

Portland Park, 58. 

Portsmouth, 51. 

Portsmouth-Kittery bridge, 22. 

Prentiss, 263. 

Presque Isle, 147. 

Prince, Governor Thomas, 239. 

Princeton, 170, 250. 

Pring, Martin, 230. 

Produce, fresh, 217. 

Proud Waves Stayed, 44. 

Pump, town, 215. 


Railroads, 22. 

Ram Island, 52. 

Randolph, 100, 123, 149, 288. 

Rangeley, 27, 71, 157, 168, 214, 218, 220- 
22210224, °226, 250, 257, 287. 

Rapids, 96. 

Raspberry, 124, 182. 

Readfield, 281. 

Receding Seas, 12. 

Resle, Sebastian, 240. 

Revere, Paul, 241. 


INDEX 


Richmond, 149, 153. 

Ripogenus Dam, 66, 128. 

River Knoll Farm, 55. 

River men, 116. 

Rivers, 39, 48, 52, 575 59) 60, 97, 111, 153, 
157) 170) 179) 213, 214, 247, 258. 

Riverside, 58. 

Road to the Fort, 57. 

Roads, 16, 22, 25, 27) 30) 38, 57) 59) 69, 110, 
114, 119, 122, 123, 133) 141, 142, 224, 
243. 

Roads, along the shore, 20. 

Roads, clay, 10. 

Roads, field, 102, 146, 177, 178, 187, 264. 

Rockland, 19, 61, 179. 

Rockport, 67, 81, 121. 

Romance of the Kennebec, The, 238. 

Rounding the Cliff, 11, 185. 

Routes for touring, 168. 

Rumford, 59, 211, 224, 225, 246. 


Sabattus, River, 111. 

Sabbath Day Lake, 106, 110. 

DACs 45,9525) 825 1595 250. 

Saddleback Mountain, 137. 

Sail boats, 22. 

St. Croix, 65. 

St. John River, 179, 247. 

Salt Pond, An Old, 154. 

Scarboro, 52. 

Scenery, 29, 32. 

Schoodic Lake, 147. 

Sea, The, 19, 21, 51, 53, 54. 

Sea, The beauty of, 39. 

Sea, The grandeur and stimulus of, 40, 41, 42. 

Sea, The tonic influence of, 39. 

Sea Barriers, 12. 

Sea Craft, 59, 60. 

Sea Gulls, 14. 

Sebago Lake, 137, 200, 202. 

Sebasticook Lake, 137, 188, 202, 234. 

Shadows on Sand, 56. 

Sheepscot, 60, 101 (erroneously listed as 
North Edgecomb) 250. 

Shore line, 19. 

Silence, of the country, 30, 217. 

Sites for homes, 8. 

Ski jumping, 36, 295. 

Skowhegan, 137, 168. 

Sladen, C. N., 295. 

Sleigh riding, 182. 

Snowshoeing, 36. 

Somerset County, 98, 148, 212. 

Somes Sound, 84. 

Somesville, 244. 

Song of the Rolling Billows, 186. 

Sounding Seas, 13. 


301 


Southworth, Lieutenant, 240. 

Sow Island, 52. 

Sparhawk House, 127. 

Spencer Mountain, 249. 

Springfield, 170. 

Spruce, 103, 114, 151; erroneously named 
pines, 232. 

Squaw Mountain, 71, 158, 249. 

Squirrel Island, 281. 

Standish, 181. 

Steamers, 21, 22, 

Steam yachts, 22. 

Stones, 54, 59. 

Stow, 189. 

Streams, 11, 37, 43, 50, 55, 58, 60, 68, 71) 
T2T, 141, 149, 175) 212, 232, 253, 254, 
266, 277; 237. 

Streams, navigable, 9. 

Strong, 157. 

Sullivan, 64, 85. 

Summering in Maine, 157, 168. 

Sunkhaze Stream, 232. 

Superlatives, 267. 

Surry, 211, 251. 

Swedes, 248. 

Sweeping Curves, 38. 

Sweet corn, 181. 

Swimmers’ Delight, The, Danville, 120. 


Thevet, André, 230. 

Tidal dams, 33, 101. 

Tides, 51. 

Toll-bridges, 22. 

Topsfield, 170. 

Topsham, 121, 146. 

Touring in Maine, 168, 282. 

Tourists, §9. 

Treak Hill, 73. 

Trees, 103, 111, 116. See Elms, Maples, etc., 
Ornamental and fruit, 123. 

Triumphal Arches, 135. 

Truth and Beauty, 259. 


Umbagog Lake, 72. 
Union, 61, 123, 293. 
Union River, 64, 214, 263. 
Upper Kezar, Lake, 72. 


Valleys, 236. 

Vandalism, 115. 

Varney, George J., “‘ Gazetteer of Maine,” 236. 
Villages, 60, 136, 246. 


Waldo, Mount, 73. 
Waldoboro, 61, 90, 102. 
Warren, 61. 

Washington, 61, 98, 177, 198. 


302 INDEX 


Washington County, 72, 234, 250, 254. 
Water approaches, 20. 

Waterboro, 151. 

Water Power, 235. 

Waterville, 60, 137, 149, 240. 

Webb River, 213. 

Welcome Home! 198. 

Weld, 137, 250. 

Wells, 51, 52. 

Wells’, “ Outline,” 272. 

Wells and springs, 215. 

Well-sweep, 80, 215. 

West, The, 7. 

West Branch, of the Penobscot, 166, 20}. 
Weymouth, Capt. George, 235. 

White Banners Advancing, 38. 

White Beard of the Sea, The, 16. 
Whitefield, 142. 

White Mountains, 27, 52, 136. 


Whittier, 52. 

Wildwood Dell, A, 132. 

Wilson Pond, 158, 256. 

Wilton, 137. 

Winslow, 60, 62, 149. 

Winslow, Edward, 239. 

Winter, 123,273. 

Winter Sports, 36, 68. 

Winthrop, 137, 187, 233, 252. 

Winthrop Pond. See Cobbesseecontee. 

Wiscasset, 19, 28, 33, 46, 60, 73, 78) 79) 99» 
113, 120, 142, 147, 170, 273. 

Woolwich, 38, 49, 60, 76, 79, 280. 

Wytopitlock, 180. 


Yarmouth, 59. 

York, .38,422,:23 5.26595 37056707 Oy) 12g eee: 
240, 279, 

York Jail Museum, 51, 242. 


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